More Mayfest food and drink by Marina O’Loughlin and Graham Caldwell.
. Dino's 39 Sauchiehall Street. 332 0626. Last orders 10.30pm. Stereotypical Italian adjoining a much more basic and traditional caff. Utterly splendid range of fresh pastas all priced at a reasonable £2.60 per main course. An ideal spot for escaping the Saturday Sauchiehall Street lunchtime — sit at the window and watch it go by. Try the Tagliolini Al Salmone -- green noodles in a light creamy smoked salmon sauce. and the olive oil and garlicky Foccaccia bread whilst congratulating yourselves that you‘re not in Pizzaland next door. .Colonial 25 Iligh Street. 552 1923. Last orders 10.30pm. To me. the best ofthe Nouvellish Vague in Glasgow. Although the superb presentation and attention to freshness are all there. you don‘t leave feeling the desperate need fora black pudding supper as dessert. The menu changes regularly. but my Panache of fresh Scottish seafood in saffron sauce was totally memorable (and large). [I even featured something I'd never previously encounted; Samphire. a nutty elegant seaweed. Chel Patron Peter Jackson deserves his reputation. Not at all cheap but worth the odd shudder at the cheque for a truly special meal. OThe 31111811652 Argyle Street. 221 8188. Last orders 9.30pm. Beautiful surroundings in the heart of sunny Anderston. Innovative menu which works beautifully most of the time. but occasionally veers towards the pretentious. along with a tendency towards the hushed reverence school of waitressing. I had one of my most sensational puddings here: bijoux portions of every one on the menu. including baby Crelne Brulee. tiny sorbets in biscuit basket. poached pear and several others — quite something. Business account clientele match business account prices — not an ambience which encourages renditions of 'Stand By Your Man.‘ OLoon Fung4l7 Sauchiehall Street. 332 1240. Last orders 11.30pm. Expansive converted cinema serving confident and authentic Cantonese cuisine (but
who is going to order deep-fried crispy pig intestines?) Dim Sum '1 speciality — try the Fun Kuo or the Sesame Prawn Toasts. and the Lemon Chicken is a masterwork. Never be tempted to experiment with the hundred-year-old eggs — they‘re quite as unpleasant as they sound. OAshoka 108 Elderslie Street.221 1761. Last orders midnight. Deservedly busy Indian with extension. Babbirs. downstairs. Wide and interesting menu. all generous portions — don't go after a heavy lunch. Musts are the LambTikka Masala: tender char-grilled lamb with a spiced buttery sauce. and the sweet and sour Chicken Patla. Fast efficient and unfailingly good— a smooth operation.
0 Koh-i-Noorzzs ’235 North Street. 204 1444. Last orders midnight weekdays. 1am Fri and Sat. A good quality. old established Inidan with one outstanding attraction — the banquets! Sunday lunehtimes and Monday nights they lay on spreads which would defeat the most dedicated greedie — you help yourself to as much as you want from an enormous range of delicacies at a fixed price. Bring reinforcements and stout walking shoes. OThe Grove 84 Queen's Drive. 423 2385. Last orders 9pm: Fri and Sat 10.3llpm. Quirky restaurant in one of the south side's most interesting terraces. It feels a bit like diningin someone's front room (possibly a maiden aunt). and the meals have the same decent home cooked quality. A varied clientele and an eccentric chef. Bring you own wine — always a help on the financial side of things.
i O Wintergreen Cafe The
People's palace. 554 0223. Daytime only. but extensions during Mayfest. Normally unlicensed daytime cafe which hopes to be staying open during Mayfest to feature Ceilidhs and Live Entertainment. A perfect setting for a wholefood restaurant. nestling as it does amidst the lush greenery of the Winter Gardens. Choose from homemade quichcs. lasagne and salads — you‘ll be hard pushed tospend
more than a fiver for two. .01 Maggios Ruthven Lane. 334 8561). Pizzas and Pastas in an old mews off Byres Road. There should be somethingto appeal to everyone from the extensive menu in this informal little trat'oria. but my personal choice is the Tagliatelle Quattro Formaggi— asumptuous melt of four different Italian cheese. Young studenty clientele reflected in the prices. OPelting Inn 191 Hope Street. 332 7120. Last orders 11.30pm. Pretty little pink and pastel Pekinese restaurant — always busy. A place to experiment in — remember to check out the blackboard for specials as the staff sometimes omit to refer to it. Crayfish in ginger and garlic. deep fried crispy chilli beef. Wontons in mixed seafood sauce. all excellent. and the aromatic duck with pancakes is a star turn. We were offered a fifty year-old liqueur as served to Margaret Thatcher during her Chinese tour. It bears a close resemblance to Lady Esquire Shoe Conditioner (don't ask me howl knowl).
OBabblty Bowsters 16/18 Blackfriars Street. 552 5055. Last orders 1 1pm. A new concept for the heart of the Merchant City— an update on the old style Glaswegian Inn incorporating a bar on the ground floor. with restaurant and rooms upstairs all coolly and tastefully decorated. The bar. which also serves food is always mobbed with a combination of new residents. lawyers and the staff from the Heraldand Times who appreciate a quarter gill when they see one. Fresh food. well cooked from a changing menu is better enjoyed in the convivial atmosphere downstairs.
C Sloans Argyle Arcade. 221 8917. Last orders 2.30pm lunchtime. The city's oldest surviving pub/restaurant and a glorious testament to a bygone age. Food is only served in the restaurant upstairs at lunchtime. and isofthe haddock and chips. steak pie andchips variety. but don't let that dissuade you from dining in stunning wood-panelled splendour. IIadSloans been in London. some entrepreneur would be by now serving horribly
overpriced slivers of underdone fish.
0 Back Alley 8 Ruthven Lane. 334 7165. Last orders midnight weekdays; Fri and Sat 1am. Jolly. lively diner concentrating on the basic burger. chilli fare. Cheap. noisy and fun for a youthful crowd who don't wish to spend their mealtime pontificating about their puddings. OThe Place 23 Sandyford Place. 221 (1770. Last orders 10.30pm. What used to be the Grafton is now a more glossy bar with downstairs steakhouse. The menu is fairly limited. but Inveterate carnivores shouldn‘t miss beasting out on the largest steak (truly!) Try it with the seafood surf ‘n' turfsauce for real caveman appeal. 0 ll Pescatore 148 Woodlands Road. 339 9239. Bustling family-style Italian with. as the name suggests. the emphasis on fish. Over and above the regular menu. the blackboard usually boasts exotic fish not often encountered elsewhere. If there‘s room for pudding. have the chocolate Creme Patissiere stuffed. liqueur-drenched pancake. Extremely friendly staff(they know all the football results). OBrasserie Dominique The Briggait. 552 8133. Last orders lam during Mayfest. Large. airy art nouveau-ish bar and restaurant gallery. Everything‘s on offer. through steaks. kebabs. croques. tosuch idiosyncracies as sprats. The last time I visited. the evening's entertainer was Madeleine McDonald. a superb local bluesy singer. and Dominique intends to feature live acts most nights during Mayfest.
OBahbity Bowster Blackfriars Street. 552 5055. One of only two Scottish Bars in the Egon Ronay Pub Guide so it must have something going for it. What it has is terrific ambience. reasonably priced wines and ales. good food. what Jack McLean calls ‘a raffish air‘ and. most nights. a queue out the door. The epitome of the Glasgow success story.
0 Blue Note Briggait Centre. Clyde Street. 552 6027. Curiously built on two levels inside the disappointing. converted fishmarket. The service isn't usually the most wonderful in the city. but it‘s the closest civilised bar to the Citz and has music in the evenings.
O Devil’s Advocate Custom House Quay. Rather a nice surprise for an afternoon early evening pub(1ater on it's jumping with folk heading for Panama Jax next door). Leather (.‘hesterfields. (sort of) fireplace and prices not as ridiculous as some places not too far away. Nice view over the river too.
.1118 Dome Sauchiehall Street. Replaced the appalling Centre Court and already justly popular. Bamboo seating. excellent access for the disabled (go to the top of the class) and possibly the sweetest bar staff ofany comparable pub in Glasgow. Handy for the Mitchell and Third Eye Centre.
0 Nico's 379 Sauchiehall Street. 332 5736. Unfortunately whenever you open the door ofan evening. fourteen people fall out. Not recommended to anyone with the slightest vestige ofclaustrophobia. When quiet. which isn't often. it is a gem and. with the Rock Garden. an establishedGlasgow favourite.
. Orwells lilderslie Street.
Opened in 1984 — as ifyou
hadn't guessed- this bar doesn‘t have a great deal going for it apart from its proximity to the Mitchell. its pleasant bar staffand the indescribably wonderful draught Kronenbourg 1664. Tres bon. if you catch my drift. OScaramouche Elderslie Street. Sorry to goon about it. but possibly one of the nicest pubs in the city. Just off Sauchiehall Street. island bar. leather seats. rarely too overcrowded. . . my local. in fact. A short stroll from the Mitchell. 0 Hobsons Sauchiehall Street. An even shorter stroll from the Mitchell. but I’d make the effort to get to the Scaramouche. Garish. loud and ugly it has a devious system of steps and mirrors which ensures that once in. it's bloody difficult to get back out. Which is very likely the only reason people stay there. C Exchequer Dumbarton Road. Another highly recommended bar at the end of the desperately disappointing Byres Road. Three bars in one. each with its own characteristics. Highly recommended but tends to get busy. OBon Accord North Street. The Kingof Glasgow's real ale pubs. A pleasant enough evening can be had playing ceny. meeny. miney mo with the bar taps. ()nly drawback is the prevalence of the Aran sweater and hiking boots type. OCuI-de-Sac Ashton Lane. A West End Rock shake a stick at. Closing time can be amusing watching drunken yuppies frantically trying to discover which of the thousands of Gold G'I‘i's outside is theirs. ()n a serious note. . . DO NOT 'I'()(.'(‘H the draught Iiiirstenberg. Rumour has it. Ilitler is alive and well and living in Bavaria brewing Foosty. ()bviously this time it's no more Mr Nice Guy. 0 Bonhams Byres Road. Less selective than it once was. but still popular. Personally. I can't see why. Jumping on Sunday afternoon jam sessions. .Tennents Byres Road. A hoot. Students. sociology lecturers. winos and people who have obviously made a mistake. OThe Granary Shawlands. 'I‘here's very little going on in what is the cultural desert of Shawlands. but. door policy aside. this is worth seekingout. Attractively designed complete with stuffed ostrich and model railway. Also Coors in cans (yum yum . . . Schlitz. .. phooey).
The List 15 — 28 May 7