Catholic when England was Protestant and an ally of France when France was hostile to England. Whatever the truth about her real nature and propaganda abounds this year is the 411(1th anniversary ofher death and there are exhibitions. tours and plays in plenty marking the fact. (Contact Tourist Office for detai1s1131 557 2727.) Within the city. llolyrood Palace boasts the room where her (probable) lover and court secretary Rizzio. was murdered and Queen Mary's Bath. close to llolyrood. is a corbelled tower where she reputedly bathed in wine.


For Galleries and Museums with Festival exhibitions see Arts listings. 0 Camera Obscura ()titlook Tower. (‘astleliilL 236 3711‘). Daily 9.311ani 6pm. Take ati instant trip round the city on the viewing table ofthis Victorian tourist attraction. Also a holography exhibition. 0 Canongate Tolbooth I65 ('anongate. 325 3424 ext 668‘). Mon—Sat ltlani- 6pm. ()ne of the most picturesque buildings iri Edinburgh‘s Royal .Mile. ltiside there's the .l. Teller

. Dunbar Tartan (‘ollection and the Scottish Stone and Brass RubbingCentre. 0 Edinburgh University Collection of Historical Musical Instruments Reid (‘oticert llall. Bristo Sqttare. 667 11111 ext2573. ()pen special hours during the [Edinburgh Festival. Moti l-ri 2-5pm. One thousand instruments iticluding stringed and woodwind. bagpipes. brass and percussion. Probably the only place in lidinburgli at this titiic of year you can see instruments at rest. Apart perhaps from the Rtissel (‘ollection of l larpsicliords and (‘lavichords in St (‘ecilia‘s l lall.

. It“; ..- .3 4* ~- Niddrie Street. Cowgate. 667 1111 1 ext 4414. Mon—Sat 13.311—1.311pm. The instruments can be seen iii the splendour of a restored (ieorgian concert hall built iii 1762.

o The Georgian House 7 (‘harlotte Square. 225 2161). Mon-Sat 111am—5pm; Stiri 3—5pm. Would the (ieorgians have frowned upon the tentsof the Book Festival which fill the view front this property. now owned by the National Trust‘.’ (‘onsideringtlie 18th-century publishing explosion. 1 think not. Furnished iii 18th-century New Tow I1 elegance. it's an upstairs. dow tistairs look at the

List. 0 Gladstone‘s Land 4476 l.awnmarket. 226 5856. Mon- Sat llIaiii-~5pm; Sun 2~5pm. The faded splendonrof a 17th-century ceiling iii a four-poster bedroom makes this National Trust property worth a visit. l’rey iottsly a merchant's home. it shows the livitig conditions of the better-off past residents of the Old Town. 0 Huntly House Museum 142 ('anongate. 235 3434 ext 668‘). Moti Sat 111atii-5ptii. 'l‘liisy'ear lidinburgh's local history museum has mounted a special display about Mary . Queen of Sent» 0 John Knox House 45111in Street. 556 61161. Mon-Sat

lllani 5pm. 15th-century town house used by .loliti Knox. the famous Scottish church reformer. The Museum of Childhood just opposite (381ligh Sheet.3252424ext6647. lllarii--5pm ) offers a more playful y iew of life with teddies. Mabel I.ttcie Atw ell and the wondernt clatter of young \ isitors and the playel piano. 0 Lady Stair‘s House l.ady Stair's (lose. law nmarket. 235 3434 ext 6593. Mon- Sat llIam—5pm. Free. .ltist behind (iladstoiie's land. this museum honours

three of Scotland's greatest men

ofletters— Robert Burns. Sir Walter Scott atid R1,. Stevetison.


(also see Sports Centres)

0 Marco's Leisure Centre 5 1 415 Grove Street (228 3141). Aerobics. Multi-(iym. Other facilities include Snooker and Squash.

0 Royal Commonwealth Pool Dalkeith Road (667 7211). Multi-Gym. Fitness (‘entre


o Carriclt Knowe Golt Course off Balgreen Road (337 11196). 18 holes. 6299yds. (‘bargeson application visitors unrestricted.

o Lochend GoltClub. Craigentinny Road (554 7501 ). 18 holes. 5418yds. 60p per round. Visitors unrestricted.

o Craigmiller Park GoltClub Observatory Road (667111147). 18 holes. 5846 yds. (‘hargeson application visitors unrestricted.

o Kirksnowe Golf Course 326 Lanark Road (441 1144). 18 holes. 5825 yds. £4.511per round: £6 weekends; weekly ticket £15.

0 Liberton Golf Club 297 Gilmerton Road (664 85811). 18 holes. 539‘) yds. £5 £8 per round. Visitors unrestricted.

o Silverknowes GoIICourse Silverknowes Parkway (336 3843). 18 holes. 62111 yds. £3 per round. Visitors unrestricted. (All other lidinburgh (iolf Courses operate various visitor restrictions. btit if you have a burning desire to emulate Faldo around Muirfield. ring116311 843123 for details).


o Craiglockhart Sports Centre (‘olititon Road (443111111 ).

N. «U

7“”.7' 5" Mon-Sun. 9am-111pm. Facilities include Fitness and Tennis. btit Squash (‘ourts otit of use at present. Also features ('arioeing and \N'indsurfing.

0 Edinburgh University Sports Centre 46 The l’leasance (667 11111). Mon-Sun8.311am-111pm. Visitors Fee £1 per session: summer membership 1; 11). Facilities include Squash. Table Tennis. Fitness ('entre and Sports 1 lall for team games. plus('hildren'sActivity('ourse I (weekdays. 9am- I 2noon). l 0 Jack Kane Centre 2118* Nitltlrie Maitis Road (6611114114). Mon-Sun. Uani- ltlpni. Wide variety of sports atid fitness.

plus inflatable play centre for kids.

0 Meadowbank Sports Centre 1.ondoti Road (661 5351 ). Mon-Sun. ‘1am-111pm. Major organised sports complex. bill also wide range of itidividttal facilities. including Fitness. Squash atid Tennis. plus Soft

Play area for kids.

0 Saughton Sports Complex Stevetison l)rive(443111111). Mon-Sun. 111am-111pm. ltidividttal facilities include Tennis and Running Track for training.


O Dalry ('aledoniati ('rescent. Opening hours vary - enquiries for All. Swimming ( 'etitresoti 6677211.

0 Glenogle (ilenogle Road. Mon-Fri 13noon-8pm; Sat 98111-417111;Stmqulll-lz111101].

o Infirmary Street Infirmary Street. Mon-Fri 8am-8pm; Sat 9am -4pm.

0 Leith Junction l’lace. Mon-Fri 9am-8pm; Sat 0am-4pm.

0 Royal Commonwealth Pool Dalkeith Road. Mon-Fri ()am-Upm; Sat-Sun 8am-4pm. ()lynipic Standard l’ool Diving l’ool. ('liildren's l’ool. plus Sauna and Fitness (’entre.

l'sttally' busy. 0 Warfendel’Thirlcstane Road.

re-opened after two year refurbishment. including modern fitness centre. Opening hours from 667 721 1.

Edinburgh has a huge numberot restaurants although the range is still not as cosmopolitan as London or even Glasgow. The Italian immigrants who have taken up residence in Edinburgh give a level of consistency and authenticity to the many Italian restaurants in the city. with the Indians the other nationality with strength in depth. The following selection represents not necessarily the very best in the city but a cross section of value lor money. interesting eateries.

o Hasputins 75 St Leonard Street. Edinburgh. 1131 668 2917. The plates don't match and towards the end of the evening the atmosphere is more Turkish bath than Russian Steppe. btit it has ey ery thing else going for it. lissential eating for ftill enjoyment of the theme of the Festiy al. The bortsch. bliriis. pink pickled herring and Rasptitin‘s Revenge salad becomes almost secondary once the piatiola startsttp. Reasonably priced. last orders 1 lptii. (‘losed

Sttn Mon.

0 The Doric 15-16 Market Street. lidinburghlBl 235 11184. lrresistably close to the l‘c'\ll\ .d booking office this w itic bat and

I thought I might take you away from this ballet-boo. but where can we go'.’ We could always try Scarborough. I spent a week there trying to be a family man and the best thing 1 saw was a dirty weekend pack in a souvenir shop. There were two toothbrushes. three condoms and a wedding ring. A bargain at £3.99. The pubs are grim. all ‘welcome‘ children. We had a 'luxury‘ flat above the Lancaster where an ageing quiff belted out ‘Twenty-four hours frorii Tulsa‘ so punctually you could time your migraine by him. I stayed well clear arid could still hear every bum note. Next year. en vacance. I intend to find a corner ofa familiar field that is forever St Andrews. and rust.

I was envious ofJulie who went offto Knoydart to hike. I've done a bit of that in my time. mainly when l was in Aberdeen. There was a club named after the Shelter Stone in the (‘airngorms and new members were supposed to sleep under it to prove they were made of nails. 1 never did. They were a crazy bunch. The first time I met the president his face wasa patchwork quilt of stitches. ‘The Eigeror the Matterhorn?‘. I asked. trying— literally to help him save face and prove I knew a thing or two about the game. ‘A lamp-post in King Street'. he said. 1 1e had



A French letter from Scarborough? Fair enough decides our intrepid explorer.

been on a bender. attempted a midnight ascent and slapped his kisser on the pavement. It was not a pretty sight.

All the women members bummed Leonard ('ohen's ‘Sisters of Mercy’ and were spleech thlelapists and slept under the Shelter Stone if and whenever. I wonder where they all are now'.’ Few bothered with ‘the hill'. as we macho types casually called it. but I‘m sure Julie was up there with the best of them. She acquireda pair of new climbing boots just before she was due to go and as anyone who knows anything about roamin' in the gloamin' will tell you. it would have been asocial disaster ifshe’d been seen wadingthrough

the heather with them gleaming like torches. Nor was the vegetation in [film Row likely to be much use for breaking them in. Hamish Maclnnes didn't get to where he is today by scuffing through discarded chip pokes. With so little time at her disposal Julie begged me to help sol said she must stand in her kitchen. naked but for the boots. and have her sonlmate fling buckets ofwater over her. The idea was to reproduce typical summertime weather in the north and I'm pleased to report she saw the sense of it at once. lwas not there to make sure the treatment was carried out properly but Julie's back iii town and she says she has only one small

blister. 1 am too polite to ask w here.

Since I got back. I've been campingont at the Book Festival and sticking to Beck‘s. lt wasa pity'llunter S. didii‘tsliow btit it did illustrate how well—mannered Hell's Angels are these days. Mat tin the Hat said there was nothing for it but to while away the next teti hours iii a pub; If “S. had dotie his stint he might have saved his liver two hours punishment Steadman was pretty cut tip atid would have gotie oti btit for the fact that the crowd had come to see the organ gt inder and not the monkey. But he soon perked up iii the Oxford. He thought w eslionld send a spoof piece to l lunter reporting that enraged bikers had torn him limb from liriib. That might flush the bastard out of(‘olorado. he said. But all the Angels 1 saw were as cleaii as chain—saws and I wouldn't be surprised it most worked in (‘harlotte Square during weekday s.

We went for the wake to a nice restaurant and ruined lunch for a do/eti ot sodiners. Ralph took his lighter toa T~shirt which luckily had no one iii 11 at the time. He was trying to burn a hole to expose nipples. lle succeeded. I said it w as all a nightmare which otiglit to be made intoa film. ‘What would you call it.'asked Ralph. ‘(ionzo Navarone.' 1 said.

_ .J The List 31 Aug - 5 Sept 57