RESTAURANT Tue—Sat (evenings only) Table d’Héte and a la Carte menus BRASSERIE Seven days: lunchtimes and evenings. Wide range of meals available.

7 OLD FISHMARKETCLOSE EDINBURGH 0312255428

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30 Sandport Street Leith, Edinburgh Phone 031 554 2921 for reservation

LUNCH 12—2.30pm EVENINGS 6—11pm (last orders 10.30pm)

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225 57145

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Thursdays 9 - 12

TEXAS BREAKFAST

B Jazz 'n' Blues, Squeezin' Sax.

Fridays 9 - 12 FAT STUFF Fab Sounds, Frantic Fun.

Saturdays 9 12

PERISTALSIS BROTHERS The Best of Swing

> Sundays 8 - 10.30

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61 FREDERICK St. EDINBURGH 031-225 5244

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dwarfed by a huge Christmas tree every year. Princes Street is the main place for fashion. records. tartan and souvenirs. For antiques and good second hand shops browse round Stockbridge (on the north side ofthe city) and Victoria Street in the old town; for kitsch Scottish souvenirs try the Royal Mile and Rose Street; for books. Waterstones in George Street is well stocked and opens late; for food. Valvona and Crolla. a family run Italian delicatessen at 19 Elm Row (top of Leith Walk) is a must: for haggis. MacSweens 130 Bruntsfield Place. 229 1216 is generally considered to be the best and will export all over the world (local import licences on meat permitting): for whisky try The Whisky shop in Waverley Market. 558 1588. who retail probably the largest range ofthe amber nectar in Edinburgh. (NB You cannot buy any alcohol from an off-licence on a Sunday in Scotland).

SIGHTS AND W

I Calton Hill East end of Princes Street. Wonderful panoramic views reward the very short climb to the top. Edinburgh has been dubbed ‘the Athens ofthe North‘ and many ofits Greek-ster buildings are to be found here. on its ‘Acropolis'. Most prominent are the pillars ofthe National Monument. build to commemorate the Napoleonic wars. but left unfinished for want of cash. Latest addition to (‘alton Hill is the Edinburgh in Depth exhibition at the (‘in Observatory. 556 4365. open until 2 Oct. shows every half hour from 10am to 4.30pm. 7 days. £1 adults. (conc 50p). using special photographic techniques it gives a 31) slide show of Edinburgh accompanied by a brief but informative talk on the history ofthe city. I Castle Castle Hill. 225 9846. Adult £2.20. (cones £1 . 10). family £5. Mon—Sat 9.30am—5.05pm. Sun Ham—5.05pm. The City's oldest and most famous landmark. home of the Scottish crown jewels and St. Margaret‘s Chapel. the oldest ecclesiastical building in use in Scotland. I Palace oi Holyrood . Canongate. 556 7371. Mon—Sat 9.30am—5. 15pm. Sun 10.30am—4.30pm. Guided tour of historic and state

(concs 80p). The official residence in Scotland of the Queen. ‘Rood‘ is an old word for cross and the abbey (now a ruin)which adjoins the palace was said to have been founded in 1128 by David 1 after his life was threatened and spared whilst hunting in the area. The Palace is famous for one ofthe bloodiest and most celebrated royal murders that committed by Darnlcy. cousin and husband of Mary. Queen of Scots. who left her favourite and secretary. Rizzio dying at her feet. with Darnley‘s dagger piercing his heart.

I Arthur's Seat One of the five extinct volcanos on which Edinburgh is built. It’s the highest point in the city (823 ft excellent views from the top) and provides it with a magnificent backdrop.

SPORTS

I Meadowhanlt Stadium London Road. 661 5351 is the main sports centre in the city and offers a wide range of facilities.

I Swimming Pools There are several pools all over the city. some with saunas. The newest and largest is the Royal Commonwealth Pool. Dalkeith Road. For information on all pools ring 667 7211 or 5571265. I Horse Racing Flat meetings on 6.13 and 27 June at Musselburgh (8 miles south of Edinburgh on A1). Makes a pleasant trip and the deservedly famous ice-creams from Luca'sor Di Rollo's in the High Street are an added incentive. See Sports listings for details of horse racing. and dog racing at Powderhall Stadium. Edinburgh.

W GALLERIES

I the National Gallery at Scotland The Mound. 556 8921. Mon—Sat 10am—5pm. Sun 2-5pm. Free. Houses an impressive and well chosen collection from l4th—l9th century. Fine works by Titian. Poussin and Turner. The gallery itselfhas recently been re-furbished at a cost of over£1 million and the rooms downstairs restored to architect Playfair’s original designs with claret-coloured walls and sage green carpets; upstairs the rooms are a less historical bright blue. bright pink and bright green.

I Gallery 01 Modern Art Belford Road. 556 8921. Mon—Sat 10am—5pm; Sun 2—5pm. Free. (The gallery is only on one bus route. Eastern Scottish bus C13.

(approx 20 mins from centre. or get a taxi). Another fine collection includes work by Picasso. llepworth. Moore and Giacometti. Modern Scottish artists are also very well represented. Excellent cafe.

I Royal Museum ol Scotland Chambers Street. 225 7534. Mon—Sat 10am—5pm. Sun 2-5pm. Free. The buildingis notable for its beautiful arching Victorian entrance hall and the collection is well recommended for its sections on science. technology and natural history. Regular programme of talks and lectures. and an inexpensive family cafe. I Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre Heritage Centre. 358 (‘astlehilL Royal Mile. 2200441. 7days 9am—7pm. Adults £2.50. kids under 16 £1.25.

Green Spots

There is no shortage of pleasant. leafy areas in Edinburgh. but one ofthe most pleasant and least discovered is Dunbar's Close Garden in the (‘anongate Laid out in the manner ofa 17th century Edinburgh garden it's small. secluded and full of herbs and butterflies. A good spot to stop and read a book untroubled by the hum of traffic outside.

I The Royal Botanic Garden lnverleith Row. (552 7171 ) is open seven days. dawn to dusk. The second oldest garden in Britain. it is wilder and more woody than most. with a famous rhododendron walk and a splendid view of the city skyline from lnverleith House (which houses changing exhibitions. see Art List).

OUTSIDE THE CITY

I Inchcolm Island There are several small. accessible islands in the Forth. ofwhich Incholm is one of the most pleasant. It‘s also said to be the driest place in Britain. left in sunny isolation as clouds gather on either side ofthe Forth. lt‘sa pretty. well-kept island with a 12th century abbey and there are good views from the top of the tower. Ideal for picnics.

Boats leave Hawes Pier. South Queensferry (information from John Watson 331 1454) at 2pm Sat. Sun. Mon (daily during July and August at 12.30pm and 3pm). Round trip takes approx 21/4 hours. with W: hours on the island. Adults £3.95. children

64The List 10— 231une1988