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I Tourist Information and Accommodation Dttice Waverley Market. 557 2727. Mon—Sat 8.30am-8pm. Sun 11am—8pm (until 9pm during Festival) and Edinburgh Airport. 333 2167 Mon-Sat 8.30am--9.30pm. Stln 9.30am--9.30pm). For all information on Edinburgh (for info on Scotland see Tourist Board below). Also offers the main accommodation service (see below). Most European languages are spoken and they also sell tickets for Scottish evenings. day trips by coach. National Trust and Open to View properties. though not for the Festival. I Scottish Tourist Board lntormation and Travel Centre Sottth St Andrew Street. 332 2433. Mon—Sat 9am—6pm. Closed Sun. From June to Sept Mon—Sat 8.30am-8pm. Sun 10am—6pm. A sort of ‘travel shop' for visitors and locals with information on the w hole of Scotland. Facilities include a travel agency. Bureau de Change. Book a Bed Ahead Service (see Accommodation below). car rental and a Scottish bookshop. Outside the building there is a 24 hour computer screen to access essential information (addresses and tel nos etc) when the office is closed. Getting Around I On loot Best way to see the city centre. and the only way to explore the Old Town. ITrafns Waverley. at the east end of Princes Street.

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is the main BR station. The clock on the adjacent North British Hotel is considerately kept 3 minutes fast so as to let you arrive in good time for your train. Telephone enquiries (5562451 )are answered promptly and

efficiently. Ring 5565633 for reservations and sleepers. There is another. very small station (l laymarket) at the west end of the city.

I Buses \laroon and cream coloured buses are run by t.othian Regional Transport and cover all city centre routes. (Information and tickets from LRTTieket Centre. Waverley Bridge. 226 5(187 Mon—Sat 7am—8pm. Sun 8am—8pm. Weekly seasons £5).

Eastern Scottish buses (coloured green) run through the city. to outlying districts. and an inter-city service. (Fares are generally below those ofthe train). Ticketsand information: St Andrew Bus Station. St Andrew Square. 556 8464 (tours: 5581616). Express service to Glasgow and (ilasgow Airport from here.

I Bicycling The city centre is a bit hilly for bicycling but the outlying area is well worth exploring by bike. Central Cycle Hire. 13 Lochrin Place. Tollcross. 228 6333 offer a wide range of bikes. and are well equipped with routes. maps and general information. Hire prices start at £4 per day.

I Taxis If you can‘t find a black cab in the street try the taxi ranks at Waverley Station. South St David Street (outside St Andrew Sq. Bus Station)orthe Caledonian Hotel at the west end of Princes Street. Tipping is optional and


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less common titan in London. Extra 50p call out charge if you order by phone. Central Cabs 229 2468 (and others in yellow pages) offer 24 hour-service.

I By Air Edinburgh Airport. lngliston. 333 1000 is about 8 miles west ofthe city centre. Flight [Enquiries 344 3136. Regular shuttle service to London. and flights to Europe. Eire and partsof the 11K.

(ietting to the airport: by taxis costs roughly £7—10 and takes tip to 3(1 minsto 45 mins depending on the time of day. Cheaper but less convenient is the airport bus run by LRT (no. 100) which leaves Waverley Bridge rougth twice an hour Mon to Fri from 5.45am to 22.05pm (once an hour at weekends). Buses run from the airport at similar intervals between 6.05am and 22.35pm. Cost: single £1 .75. £3 return.


I Tourist Information and Accommodation Desk Waverley Market. 557 2727. Mon—Sat 8.30am-8pm. Sun 11am—8pm (until 9pm during Festival) and Edinburgh Airport. 333 2167 Mon—Sat 8.30am—9.30pm. Sun 9.30am--9.30pm. The most difficult accommodation to find is a single room and the worst time to find it is during the Festival; booking in advance is the only real answer. but if you haven't these offices will do their utmost to find you a bed. even if it is outside the city. Approximately 600 hotels. guest houses and private houses pay to be


registered with the tourist office and prices range from approx. £10 to £60 per person per night. There is a £1 bookingfee. plus a 10% deposit ofthe whole stay. payable in advance.

The Book-a-Bed Ahead scheme (also available from the Scottish Travel Centre South St Andrew- Street) offers a reservation seryice which covers most of Scotland and some places in England. Fee £1.75. plus a deposit of 109} ofthe price of the first night. The office also has details of camping and caravan sites.

I Youth Hostels 18 Eglinton Crescent. 337 1120 and 7 Bruntsfield Crescent. 447 2994. Members only. bttt membership is available to anyone over the age of5 at the hostel (£6). Advance booking (by post ) essential dttring the


I Police Station Lothian and Borders 110. Fettes Avenue. 3| 1 3131. Emergency Services: Dial 999 (free) and ask for the service you require Fire. Police or Ambulance.

I Left Luggage Waverley Station. Waverley Bridge. 7 days 6am-l0.45pm. Charges 50p—£l .50 per day. depending on size of locker.

I Casualty and Emergency (24 hours) Services Royal Infirmary of Edinburgh. 1 Lauriston Place. 2292477 and Western (ieneral Hospital. (‘rewe Road South. 332 2525.

I Emergency Dental Clinic Edinburgh Dental Hospital. 31 Chambers Street. 225 9511 (weekdays); Western General Hospital. Crewe Road South. 332 2525. every evening 7.30— l()pm. Sat and Sun 10am—noon. I Contraceptive Advice Family Planning and Well Woman Services. 18 Dean Terrace. 332 7941.

I Aids Helpline contact the City Hospital. Greenbank Drive (41 bus). 4470411 or Scottish Aids Monitor. 23 Dublin Street.558

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I Samaritans 54 Frederick Street. 225 3333.

I Money Bank hours are 9.30am—3.30pm. though some shut at lunch time. All branches of the Royal Bank of Scotland open Mon—Wed and Fri 9.30am—4.45pm and an extra hour on late closing day. Thursday. from 4.30—5.30pm. The Clydesdale Bank in Waverley Market. 556 7306 is unique in the centre oftown in its extended hours: Mon—Sat 8.30am—7.30pm; Sun

11am—3pm. Nearly all the '

Scottish and English banks have reciprocal arrangements for using cash-dispensing machines. but beware the extra fee some ofthem impose for the service. It‘s well worth checking with your own bank before you find yourselfwith extra bank charges at the end of your holiday.


I Jenners. Generally acknowledged as Edinburgh‘s premier store. and located at the east end of Princes Street. It was one of the biggest department stores in the UK when it was built and its vast central mock Jacobean gallery. is dwarfed by a huge Christmas tree every year. Princes Street is the main place for fashion. records. tartan and souvenirs. For antiques and good second hand shops browse round Stockbridge (on the north side ofthe city) and Victoria Street in the old town: for kitsch Scottish souvenirs try the Royal Mile and Rose Street; for books. Waterstones in (ieorge Street is well stocked and opens late; for food. Valvona and Crolla. a family run ltalian delicatessen at 19 Elm Row (top of Leith Walk) is a must; for haggis. MacSweens 130 Brtmtsfield Place. 229 1216 is generally considered to be the best and will export all over the world (local import licences on meat permitting); for whisky try The Whisky shop in Waverley Market. 558 1588. who retail probably the largest range ofthe amber nectar in Edinburgh. (NB You cannot buy any alcohol from an off-licence on a Sunday in Scotland).

Sights and Landmarks

I Calton Hill East end of Princes Street. Wonderful panoramic views reward the very short climb to the top. Edinburgh has been dubbed ‘the Athens ofthe North‘ and many ofits Greek-style buildings are to be found here. on its ‘Acropolis'. Most prominent are the pillars ofthe National Monument. build to commemorate the Napoleonic wars. but left unfinished for want of cash. Latest addition to Calton Hill is the Edinburgh in Depth exhibition at the City Observatory. 556 4365. open until 2 ()ct. shows every half hour from 10am to4.30pm. 7 days. £1 adults. (cone 50p). using special photographic

techniques it givcsa3D slide show of Edinburgh accompanied by a brief but informative talk on the history ofthe city. I Castle Castle Hill. 225 9846. Adult £2.20. (cones £1 . 10). family £5. Mon-Sat 9.30am—5.05pm. Sun Ham—5.05pm. The City‘s oldest and most famous landmark. home ofthe Scottish crown jewels and St. Margaret's Chapel. the oldest ecclesiastical building in use in Scotland. I Palace at Holyrood Canongate. 5567371. Mon—Sat 9.30am—5. 15pm. Sun 10.30am—4.30pm. Guided tour of historic and state apartments adult £1 .60 (eoncs 80p). The official residence in Scotland of the Queen. ‘Rood‘ is an old word for cross and the abbey (now a ruin) which adjoins the palace was said to have been founded in 1 128 by David lafter his life was threatened and spared whilst hunting in the area. The Palace is famous for one of the bloodiest and most celebrated royal murders that committed by Darnley. cousin and husband of Mary. Queen of Scots. who left her favourite and secretary. Rizzio dying at herfeet. with Darnley‘s dagger piercing his heart. I Arthur's Seat One ofthe five extinct volcanos on which Edinburgh is built. it‘s the highest point in the city (823 ft —excellent views from the top) and provides it with a magnificent backdrop.


I Meadowoank Stadium London Road. 661 5351 is the main sports centre in the cityand offers a wide range of facilities.

I Swimming PoolsThcre are several pools all over the city. some with saunas. The newest and largest is the Royal Commonwealth Pool. Dalkeith Road. For information on all pools ring 667 721 1 or 5571265. Belford Road. 556 8921. Mon—Sat 10am—5pm; Sun 2—5pm. Free. (The gallery is only on one bus route. Eastern Scottish bus Cl 3. so your best bet is to walk (approx 20 mins from centre. or get a taxi). Another fine collection includes work by Picasso. Hepworth. Moore and (iiacometti. Modern Scottish artists are also very well represented.

Museums and Art Galleries

I The National Gallery of Scotland The Mound. 556 8921. Mon—Sat 10am—5pm. Sun 2—5pm.

64 The List 24 June 7 July 1988