terrible poverty in both rural and urban areas. Ads in the local paper recruit washerwomen at a daily wage ofthree shillings— less than ten pence. Without any kind of social security for workers to fall back on. it’s not surprising that the hotels can command vast armies of tractable employees. ready to humour the slightest whim of rich foreigners.

A more encouraging aspect of the country. and one which is in many ways a throw-back to the Bible-bashing Victorian missionaries. is the chance of a free education for all. In even the most remote and primitive communities we passed through you still see primary schools. funded by the government. All the children need to take to school with them is a writing instrument. This promotes some furious roadside bargaining as

well weighed down by local artefacts.

Modern Swahili betrays some less beneficial Western influences. The word for syphilis is ‘No kissie-kissie‘. The names popular amongst the upper and middle classes in Britain before the war have filtered down to all levels of the Kenyan population. (‘aroline lives in a shack with a tin roof. llenry drives a truck. Alice and Lydia wash clothes. Evangelical fervour (again partly due to Victorian influence) has prompted some parents to name their children with desirable attributes. Modest. Faithful and (‘harity frequently appear on the identification badges all the waiters wear.

Seeing the country at first hand dispelled some of the myths propagated by the recent spate of films about Kenya such as White

individual who captured them on film.

Kenya exerts a peculiar fascination over its visitors. a fascination which on my part stems largely from ambivalence towards the vastly differing life-styles and attitudes which co-exist. The diseased beggars of Nairobi are in no way allowed to impinge upon the leisured lives of the children ofthe original settlers. The much disliked. and prosperous Asian community represents another segment of the community which is entirely self-contained.

As our mock safari trailed through the heat and dust. underpinned by a slight sense of contrivance and guilt. we catne to the Rift Valley. hundreds of miles ofsavannah stretching in front ofus. illuminated by the bright. distinctively African sun. The elation prompted by such an expanse




anxious parents trade sandstone rhinos. (the nearest we ever got to the real thing) and snake-boxes (more gimmicky than dangerous) for the requisite Bic biro. The Dutch couple had sussed this out in advance and arrived in the country with industrial supplies of pens. leaving

Getting There

Return llighffaresfrom Londonto Nairobi are available from £428. Exodus Expeditions offer all-in programmes of treks. adventure holidays and safarisofepic proportions to various

Getting In

I A British passport is all that‘s required.

When You’re There

I Your accommodation will be part of the package. A possible extra (atabout £135fortwo days) mighfbe

.lll'st‘liitffand ()u! ofxlfrit‘u. The Masai warriors are a case in point. There was none of this business about their objecting to photographs because they feared for the abduction oftheir souls. All they were worried about was exacting ten shillings from each camera-wielding

Water-purification tablets: (from Boots and other chemists) should be used unless you are absolutely sure the drinking water is safe (bottled water usually is). Dr boil the wafer. This applies to water forteeth-cleaning and mouth-rinsingtoo.

Food: raw vegetables.

of uncultivated wilderness. with the mountains in the background was hard to repress. Kenya's not a land about which you ever make up your mind. Perhaps that's the reason people become so attached to it.

(llelen Davidson)

needle in case of illness requiring injections. Check with your GP. Dental equipment may not be properly sterilized either. Geffull medical insurance.

Getting Out

I You'll need £12 sterling to pay the airport tax on the way out. so rememberto

where. as well as what you've given and to whom. I Tips: They are not expected in restaurants and cafes. The above explains why.

I Driving: Kenyans drive on the left.

I Safety: Both Mombasa and Nairobi are dangerous places. so be careful.

orientated towards the general traveller and operates as a travel pack with separate fold-out map. activities. facts and pictures all encased in a protective cover. (Harrap Columbus £6.95).


African countries. While a balloon safari. salads amt unpeeled fruits. “"9 "‘ '" “’59”: Useful . The 5", Scams), Ski Show somcofthcir expeditions raw Shaun’sh‘ creamand runs from Friday 21 To

take tip to (T months. 'cecream' 'ce cubes' _ Information Sunday 23 October affhe lixodus also do short in I Precautions against the "MET-000'“!!! meal OrlISh. I The Rough Guide to Scottish Exhibmon and

dav safaris to Kenya and following bugs etc are very 00” 0' Wheat“ ‘00!1 NY I Currency: You have to Kenya is an excellent guide Commence Came in Tanzania. l’riccsarc from advisable: Malaria: 3” be 8080801988le exchange your British to everything the budget 6.339“ All aspects 0, £920 ex-l.ondon contracted from the bites of 000*“ T00“ is the saleSl- currency when you are there (and the non-budget) skiing ("hm equipment to (contributionsto the food infected mosquitoes. Take AIDSI sadlY M03 iSfileifl ata registered exchange. If travellerneedsto know.

kitty and insurance are extra). Fares of£515 return via

anti-malarial tablets before. during and after your visit. Avoid mosquito

Africa. Sexual intercourse should be avoided. unless you can be sure yourpartner

is possibleto buy blackmarket shillings at a cheaperrate. bufyou may

Where to stay. whattodo. etc in full detail. (Harrap Columbus £6.95).

accommodation) will be represented. and a 540 square metre dry slope plus a cross~counfry ski track

Brussels ex-l.ond0n and a bites by covering up arms does not carrythe Hleirus find yourselfin courtfacing IThe Insight Guideto Wm bemal points"),

student fare (iii-153 retttrn and legs in the evenings. (which would be nearly charges, so don't do it. Kenya takes a more showgoers. activities

cx-l.ondon were quoted using repellent sprays and impossible in Kenya). Kenya islairly on the ball cultural-background angle Opening hoursam Fri '

by Campus. sleeping under nets. Your Otherwise the about blackmarket dealings and provides history. “ankgpm. Sat 1 umpm EncounterOverland. doctorwill advise you on use-a-condom rule applies and you may get caught. 0n geography etc as against and Sun 11am”

London. ()1 3706845. organises safaris and tours

the tablets. Cholera. typhoid. polio and yellow

if you insist on intercourse. Medical needles and blood

entry. all your exchanged currency will be monitored

useful travel tips. (Harrap Columbus £9.95).

in Africa. l’riccs start at lever vaccinations are transfusions are also and you're supposed to be I Hildebrand's Travel £830 (excluding air fare) advised. but not dangerareas. ll maybe ableto fill outlorms stating Guideto Kenya is yet for a three-week safari. compulsory. possible to take your own what you've spent and another kettle of fish. It's

flew“ ADVENTURE TRAVEL W Everest Base Camp Trek 28 days F Egypt/“mam'ae' 28 “3" Plus Trans-Continental Egypt 15 days Ex m . Am M Nepal Trekking 10 days 99" 0'“ m ‘33: Nepal and India 24 days Asia and South Amenca. . Nepalandlvthlndla zadays WNW. A g m ‘- '.-.s '4' South India 24 days “‘lwd'il‘l’irx 2' "km . - -- r!— r-e- -—~- Nepal Rafting 10 days C‘KEFS :"A. TE ’7’ 751.3 _ —~'-- a' Mountain Gorillas sways sa‘ars an: transferee-m x East Africa 20 days 3.. Gate“ M.-. . .. Peruandlncas 28days gfl'jcr‘; :34]; gag}. Darlan Gap Trek 16 days 5:13)? 17:53; ~ ' Sahara Safari 28 days 1 life i“ 5 4 > Mgrfico gays 3“ 3“ b For further information and " W m SOUTH AMERICA details of FREE FILM snows: TRANSCONTINENTAL EXPEDmONS Maxi d“) FROM 2 TO 26 WEEKS 27/31 lerdan Plate 01 TREKS AND ADVENTURES london SW0 1m;

The List 14 27 October 1988 65