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Dependahle hut unadyenturous. most restaurant chains are not the place it) go litti' tic“ experiences. but a rash oi estahlishments named 80 are hringing mdiyidualism into the lidinhurgh market. 'l'ye heen going out oi husiness tor twenty years.‘ says .\lc\ Nicholson. w ho has heen leather-worker. gallery owner and now restaurateur. llis third
har restaurant. iust opened on lilacklrtai's Street. suggests that his lttck is changing.
It's small. like the other two ( Bo‘s Bistro in the ( irassmarket and Bo‘s Baroli the l ligli Street). and more iiidiyidual than most people‘s houses. 'I he har is an old groccr's shop counter chopped in hall. and the drawers are litiiig on the wall as slicly es. ‘lt‘sahout standards] says Nicholson. comparing their choice ol' classic music ( lily is. l’atsy (line. lzditli Mall to the w hole philosophy ol llic ‘cat’iliy . liasic' liars and restaurants. 'I he restaurant seats ahout 35 and w ill haye a menu ot' ‘de|u\e hurgers‘. iyetiison hurgers. pheasant hurgers. hare hurgers) or may he it w ill he Vegetarian: 'lt depends on the chel .' says Nicholson. ‘l'lic lio's logo may soon he as recognisahle as \Vimpy. hill the restaurants w ill ney er he as soulless. 'l'he new one on Blackt'riars Street is going to he decorated with a series ol hlack and white photographs. 'l‘hey haye heen taken hy otie oi the stall. w ho douhles as a photography
student. and they are portraits ol a plumher. a hank manager. a cigarettc-ittachine installer: e\ eryone w ho has heen im ol\ ed in creating Ho's.
BtllllL‘S ()l' l lcin/ tomato lxclclillp
(iii tltc tahlcs \L'l the dctnolic tonc lot
the Chicago Meat Packers ( tiioilo: l-‘amous Since 1087). on the site ol the once-renow tied .\la|maison restaurant in l lope Street. ( ilasgow. .r\s the natne suggests. this is hardly the place for your militant \ eggie:
CLOSE TO EDINBURCH’S
loud and drink
l tlll\ lit t‘ll\t'(l
()yi-rlooking the l’rinii-s Street
gardens on \\(l\(‘llt‘\ Bridgi- is
'\( tintlitis ('iite liar
stylish and \t‘l\
-\t .intlttis otters you a quite i-sti-ptional (home or ‘erlil ttill (t)()l\('(l
to .ilti-iniion tint
-\< anthus is opt-ii
ironi 8am until
ACANTHUS CAFE BAR
tolerahle \‘UlllliiL‘. and a neat touch is supplied hy the two trains which chug along the large model railway track suspended l'rom the root. I-‘ur yuure/iimi'e (U um (I meal [or limrru I/Ic ( Winter) .lli’ut I’m‘lu’rs. .\('(’ Competitions page.
Adyenturous cooking takes on a new meaning at The Trading Post on the Shore in l.eith. w here diners grill their ow ii steaks. kehahs and rihs on a si//|ing harhecue in the centre of their tahle. (‘onceiyed as a way to reyitalise the ilagging popularity of the steakhouse. the 'l‘rading l’ost's' patented idea has heen tried and tested in ( ilasgow . and now .v\herdeen and London are in the sights.
(‘heet'lul. gingham-shirted waitresses are much in eyidence to make sure inesperieneed chel's don‘t ci'emate their dinner. and the emphasis is on hands-on. lielpi'ul sct’\ ice. It‘s a case oi the theme restaurant gone wild: each separate area of the \ ast interior is a Variation on the Wild West idea. Downstairs. the har is housed in a rustic log-cahin; the tnain restaurant area has the hrocade curtains and gas lamp lighting ol‘ the upmarket saloon. and the smaller har is a Mesican cantina. .»\ yast y ideo screen. a talking horse and live (1% W at the weekend complete the picture. htit the restaurant's higgest asset is the smoky. mouthwatering aroma of harhecueing steak.
the menu ahounds in steak. hurgers and Ixirhecued rihs. But it the choice is limited. what you get is unlikely to disappoint: the meat is ol'eycellent quality. and portions are generous. Sery ice is lriendly . il'a mite oyer-attentiye iii the American tashion: at (rpm the place was lairly quiet. hut one got the impression that at husier times there would he a hit ol‘suhtle encouragement to eat otie‘s meal then leaye. 'l'he taped music (anything American trom Sinatra to Blondie) is kept at a
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80 The List 9 — 22 December 1988