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Min Lee spends some time hangingout and hanging loose in Hawaii.

Hawaii the movie: palm trees waving over white sand beaches. tropical flowers stirred by soft trade winds. ukeleles providing background music for dusky hula maidens. wide-shouldered surfers riding the giant waves.

Ifyou stand on Waikiki beach in Honolulu and look east you will see the view reproduced on film. poster and postcard. The colourful sails of catamarans and the dark bulk of outrigger canoes are outlined against an impossibly blue sky. Bronzed bodies stretch out on the coral sand. The famous silhouette of Diamond Head looms in the distance. Add to this the tropical aroma of the glistening bodies laid out thigh to (sometimes very opulent) thigh. frying gently in their coconut oil

dressing. shows begifi. The hula is the showbiz who have style all‘LhefirléiVlV'nl': “tot”: ' fZOW'fiipPCTCVCN Ski'Cd by the On our ri ht the beam vonhc kind. Agreater(and more the black sand beac o a apana d velt UK US - I

bay. uyndimigisfiw by timcyand authentic) variety can be found at the long golde‘n straigd oflldaputin‘t’i:ra t. Much to take

tourist developmenti waves break on the POl‘mcsmn C unuml Villagc' on State park win“ no S .Lt ) “Tit: or (115 SW???" glib b;

the reef‘ surfers ride on the waves“ the east coast ()anhu. The centre. mar the backdrop of ‘auna ea. ( it. angdoiisc I. am 15c 5 CU t

a“ Sparkle in the Hawaiian sun‘ just run by the C hurchofje‘sus Christ of Mauna Kearitself. the white . f ' savoure s ow y.

as you had dreamt. On your left the Latter Day Saints. shows d mountain . its i3.7ooft summit o ten commum OVER “GE

kaleidoscope ofoceanic culture

some coconut palms lean gracefully but no grass huts. High—rise hotels form a towering wall behind the beach, a wall which casts a shadow completely across it early in the morning. Ifyou can pick your way between the recumbent bodies. have a look at the resplendent 193os‘ survival. the Royal Hawaiian Hotel. known popularly as ‘the Pink Palace‘. for reasons which are immediately evident. Anyone is free to roam its splendidly furnished ground floor and its gardens. which

display the luxuriant. fragrant. and glow in mm“ like lauwiml, and brilliant rowth ex ected in . paradiscg p humuhumwiukunukuapua a. leave

Step beyond its gates and you are in Homlu'u and Cam behind you and

. trv the slower pace ofone of the apolyglot throng oftourists and r . . . . locals. You can identify the locals NUghbm [glands on the“ m

. , .‘ o 3 . c w: because they smile a lot. And they‘re easier to 5e“ hpw the Amcnc‘m dy . . oflife (Hawaii became the 50th state not likely to be the couples dressed in in I 0) has met its match in the matching muumuus and aloha shirts. 95

sufficiently vigorous to overcome the processing and packaging techniques. The day‘s events culminate in a procession ofcanoes along the manmade waterway. punctuated by displays ofsinging and dancing (most exciting when accompanied by the traditional drums) on landing stages. performed by young men and women from all parts of the Pacific, who are students at the Brigham Young University. For a quieter communion with the multicoloured Hawaiian fish. which

ragamuffin

°OFiSKYE

At the centre ofthe Pacific the “altivc Hagan“ zgnhd imlmiggarg - U “ewe .. . cu tures. awaii t e is an . auai Hawa'm" “lands are peopled “0‘ and Maui are all different. but all 1 Dam—530W"

just by descendants of the original Polynesian settlers, but by those of the Chinese, Japanese, Portugese. Filipino and Puerto Rican

offer a glimpse oflife before tourism. Monday—saturday If you have time for only one outer

island, then Hawaii offers the most

. ' ' ty. It is the biggest (known

populations who came to cut the “me . ' .

sugar cane. and the American, Eggsliilgsijggggpjn ate WE ACCEPT

. . " ' ll English. Irish and Scots who came to and environment. In one day you can MAJOR CRED|T

save souls or make fortunes (or I ' . I both). Now their blood and their “M” from t“? bdk‘"g “de lava CARDS desert of Kau in the south, to the

cultures are blended, as are their . . culina skills In Honolulu the pockets oftropical rainforest on the ry ° windward (east) side: from the

range ofcuisines is immense (and the

- moonscape of Volcanoes National We are the rage raggighfi?:fi: :3):th tiki torches Park with its sulphurous steam vents Of ange'S . and active craters. to the rolling iffu‘ifififfiilgéi‘fiii‘iéil5232133on uplands ofWaimea where 276 CANONGATE ROYAL MILE guitars fills the air. and the Hawaiian the cattle roam attended by the EDINBURGH Telephone 031 557 6007

Hawaiian cowboys (the paniolos,

The List 10— 23 March 1989 61