CATALIST
of as much of the following as you desire: cereal (about five varieties). yogurt. fresh and preserved fruit. toast. jam. a large selection of meats and cheeses. smocked mackerel. fruit juice. tea. and mellow. fresh coffee by the jug-full.
Now for the disadvantages. 1)Incessant piped musak 2)'1'he price. which comes in two varieties; expensive (£4.50) and even more expensive (£7.50). 3)Unsociable hours. Last orders are at 10am. even on Sundays. 4)lt won't do much for your inferiority complex. if you have one. (Jo Roe)
I Hamlltons ot Stockbrldge Hamilton Place, 226 4199. Breakfast served 10-11.30am Mon—Fri.9—11.30am Sun. Breakfast can be one of the most pleasurable meals of the day. That is, ifyou are in no hurry and if you are presented with food capable of awakening the taste buds. without disturbing the fine balance of acid and alcohol in the stomach. Hamiltons present interesting variations on traditional motifs, as the shamelessly prosaic Omelene Arnold Bennett (omelette stuffed with smoked haddock. cream and cheese) might suggest.
On ordering scrambled eggs with smoked salmon (£1.55) I was delighted to find that the eggs were not only at peak consistency, but that they arrived hot. a feat difficult enough to achieve in one‘s own kitchen. Although presented very neatly on a bed of flattened toast triangles, the subtle dish could have done with less of the nouvelle fussiness and more of. . . the food. If you are feeling reasonably sturdy. try the continental breakfast. a selection ofcold meats and cheeses (£2.85) with croissant. Despite initial reservations this proved to be a pleasantcombination for the first meal ofthe day. though perhaps fatty salami is taking it too far. My cappuccino was rather limp and bland but thankfully tea arrived by the generous potful. Other items on
i
the breakfast menu include a fry-up (£3.25 ). egg. bacon or sausage rolls (Slip). various cereals, yogurt and
carrot juice.
I)cspite its glitzy decor. a quiet window seat and an adventurous menu provide an extremely pleasant accompaniment to the morning papers. also on offer free ofcharge.
(Jo Roe)
I Henderson's Salad Table 94 Hanover Street. 225 2131. What sometimes strikes me as being far too wholesome at tea time — and I speak as a long—term vegetarian — seems surprisingly more appropriate at breakfast. Open at 8am,
Henderson '3 cuts its normally wide range of foods to some three or four
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fruit salads, bread and croissants and a choice ofcheeses. A rich and many-textured bowl of fruit and yoghurt sets you up comfortably for the rest of the day. On the down side, the staff appeared less awake than me and, ifyou also want a coffee, it‘s hard to spend less than £3. But for a relaxed, unhurried and peaceful start to the day it is well
recommended. (Mark Fisher).
I Larry’s Diner 26 Nicolson Street, 667 5712. Breakfast served 7.30am-5.30pm Mon—Sat, 11am—4pm Suns. Larry‘s is famous. Famous for its food and, until recently, for its avuneular owner. Perhaps the height of its fame came when the Merry Mac Fun Show immortalised the small Nicolson Street diner in song. In what became an anthem for disaffected dieters, Let’s go Lunch at Larry '3, they invited the then Junior Health Minister, Edwina Currie to come for a slap-up feed. And as they rightly told her ‘Then you wouldn’t make a fuss, you‘d get a burger in your pus.‘ Presumably she would have shunned the egg roll.
Sadly, Larry is no longer at the controls. He retired last June. With him went the gargantuan mixed grill, which guaranteed a plateful of Nero-ic proportions for about a quid and a half. The new owners, however, have changed little: bacon, sausage or black pudding rolls for breakfast will set you back a mere trifle (40p). More substantial meals for the early morning swimmer or the still-pissed punter cash in at around £1.20. So Larry‘s name lingers on and the young pretenders seem to have done nothing to besmirch it. (Ross Parsons)
PACHUKO CANTINA
’The Mexican Experience’ 9 r ,\ 11.3. )‘2\') ~‘\ 10 "
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OPENING TIMES Lunch: TurSat 12-2pm Dinner: TueSat 6—12pm; Sun 7-10pm Booking Advlaable - 031228 1345
Pachuko Cantina .‘ . Jvae Street, Edinbur h {*1 3
L L] Bring your own bottle!
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OPEN MON== SAT lO-OOAM== 8~00PM
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GLASGOW Z
I CuI-de-Sac 44/46 Ashton Lane, 334 8899: Noon-3pm. Trendy pub serving coffee and croissants.
I Cate Barblzon College Lands. High Street. 552 0707. Noon—3pm. Relaxed cafe which serves a full breakfast as well as croissants, bacon, sasusagc and egg rolls, cereals and kippers ifyou can stomach them.
I Samovar Cotteo 81109113 j
(,‘andleriggs, 552 3903.
l lam—14pm. Popular coffee house which serves cakes. croissants and scrambled eggs, though no specific breakfast
I Kings Cate 71 Elmbank Street. 332 8098. 7.30am—1pm. Cheerful. unfussy cafe which serves a huge variety ofbreakfast fodder. Sausage. bacon. egg and tomato for a very reasonable £2.
I Buzzy Wares Lower ground floor, Princes Square. 248 4066. Noon—3pm. Huge selection on offer
including the full English Breakfast (£4.25), eggs (any way you want them) with sausage and bacon (£3.25), or scrambled eggs with salmon (£3.75), followed by French toast with butter and maple syrup (£2.95).
EDINBURGH
I City Cato 19 Blair Street, 2200125. Noon—3pm. Stylisth relaxed surroundings, ifyou can bear haggard-looking trendicsofa Sunday morning. The Cafe's brunch (£4.95) includes a a heady mixture of mushrooms and cream, smoked haddock, bacon and egg or chicken Waldorfsalad to munch over the Sunday papers. I Blue Parrot 49 St Stephens Street, 225 2941. 10.30am—5pm. Great place for Sunday breakfast, if a little cramped and Sloanie. As well as all ofthe Sunday papers you can get a full or vegetarian fry-up (£2.80/£2), and most breakfast extras including
. croissant and cereals.
I Bannerrnans Cowgate. 556 3254. 11am-2pm. Atmospheric cave-like pub which serves the full fry up for £3 as well as other breakfasty things. I Cato Royal Oyster Bar 17a West Register Street, 5564124.12.30—2pm. Breakfast out in colossal style for a mere £10. But look what you get . . . Bucks Fizz followed by blueberry muffins, croissants, choice of main course (including eggs Benedict, omelette Key Largo or steak), rounding off with choice of sweet and coffee.
I Negociants 45/47 Lothian Street, 225 6313. 10am-6pm. Smart, studenty bar/restaurant which serve a huge range including the full fry-up (£2.85) as well as extremely exotic offerings from curry to egg hoppers (a kind ofspicy pancake with an egg cracked onto it) to Indonesian omelette. Perhaps a little adventurous for those who have taken advantage of Negociants‘ late licence the night before.
7 OLD FISHMARKET CLOSE EDINBURGH 031 225 5428
9152.539”?
open seven days
food served all day tri 8r sot
restaurant
tuesday— saturday 1900 - 2200
Kati?”
The List 23 February — 8 March 1990 79