The food of love
Gobbling in a gallery or consuming under candle—light, the scope is broad for St Valentine‘s Day food. Catherine Fellows plays on.
1 have been asking for romantic food suggestions for some time now. The List‘s contributors are not good at everything. One helpful hack offered me a sandwich. Another resident wit and raconteur. was expansive by comparison: ‘Shawfield. Beer. Chip buttie and brown sauce‘. And where does the Beloved figure in this‘.’ ‘I am a dog fancier.‘ he replied.
The commercial department were much more promising. There were memories oflove-filled Greasy-Spoons; misty eyes over magic moments in The Witchery: sighs for summer days in the hills with a bottle of Bordeaux; and a lyrical description of a drive in the dark to Kirkmichael and the bright lights. scrumptious food and affordable beds ofThe Log Cabin.
Everyone has their own idea when it comes to the perfect amorous rendezvous. and the great thing about lurve is that it can make a cup
72 The List 8- 21 February 1991
Romantic hideaway at The Vintners Room, Edinburgh.
of tea in a Nissan hut taste like nectar on Mount Olympus. There are. however. one or two places which are more conventionally alluring and if your communion is not yet sublime. may give you a glimpse of Paradise.
I Janssen's 1355 Argyle Street. 3349682. 1 lam—11pm seven days. A romantic saunter through Kelvingrove Art Gallery happily culminates in coffee and nibbling here. The accommodating. open all day for whatever you might fancy. arrangement could hardly be more conducive to intimacy. Sandwiches and side salad £1 .7()—£2; daily specials. for example yoghurt kebabs. salmon steak. served with salad and vegetables £7 upwards.
I Cane Oui 17 John Street. 552 609‘). l0am—l 1pm seven days. The ground floor is a sophisticated and wonderfully voluminous space in which to find privacy. Again. eating is ﬂexible. and unusually. gateaux and patisserie are particularly delicious. Focaccia. ltalian bread. with various fillings around £2; seafood salad £4; sweets £2.25.
I Amber Regent St) West Regent Street. 331 1655. Noon—2pm. 6—] 1.30pm Mon—Fri; noon—midnight Sat. In contrast to the above is the plush and no lessstylish atmosphere of this predominantly (‘antonese restaurant. L'nlike so many (‘hinese menus. dishes here are refreshingly unfamiliar and their preparation betrays equal thoughtfulness. Evening meal approximately £20 a head without wine.
I The Triangle 37 Queen Street. 221 8758. Brasserie noon—3pm. 6— l lpm Mon-Sat. Dining Room noon—2.30pm Mon—Fri;
7— 10.30pm Mon—Sat. Whether or not you
would have chosen this idiosyncratic decor. its combination of colours and its ‘objets d'art'. The Triangle is a stimulating environment in which to enjoy very good food. lts open plan layout also involvesa rather compelling sofa. Brasserie£15—£20 a head. Dining Room £25—£30. both prices including wine.
I The Ubiquitous Chip l2 Ashton Lane 334 5007. Upstairs at the Chip noon—11pm. drinking until lam. seven days. downstairs restaurant noon-2.30pm Mon—Sat:
530-] lpm Mon—Sun. It is the leafy balcony which holds fond memories for many: the consistent reputation of Glasgow‘s best-named restaurant makes it likely to generate many more. Upstairs £6 ahead. downstairs £18—£20excluding wine.
I Rogano 11 Exchange Square. 248 4055. Main restaurant noon—2.30pm Mon—Sat; 7— 10pm Mon—Thurs; 7— 10.30pm Fri—Sat. Cafe Rogano noon—11pm Mon—Thurs: noon—midnight Fri—Sat. Lunch at the bar noon—2.30 Mon-Sat. Not exactly original. 1 know. but it is hard to beat its glamorous 30s interior. and the food is usually good. Bar lunch £5; Cafe Rogano£l2—£18a head. restaurant £40 a head. both including wine.
I Whigham's Wine Celiar13iiope Street. 225 8674. Ham—midnight Mon—Sat (lam Fri). food noon—2.30. Whigham's offers an impressive selection of wines. some good seafood. and wonderful vaulted stone alcoves to disappear into — what more could you want'.’ Lunch dishes £1.50—£6.
I Le Sept 7 Old Fishmarket Close. 225 5428. Noon—2. 15pm Mon—Sat;6—l 1pm Mon—Thurs and Sat;6—11.30pm Fri; 6.30— 10pm Sun. 1 have been reliably informed that in the intimate recesses of Le Sept ‘you can talk for hours about love. life. sex . . . until they startstacking
the chairs on the tables‘. On the ground ﬂoor the emphasis is on crepes. with an excellent fish soup sometimes to be had. There is a more extensive menu in the restaurant downstairs. Upstairs under £10. downstairs £10—£15 a head including wine. I Cale St Honore 34 Thistle Street Lane North. 226 2211. Noon-2.30pm Mon—Sat; 6.30—10pm Mon-Thurs; 6—10.30pm Fri; 6.30—10.30pm Sat. With any luck. no-one will find you tucked away here. The French really do seem to have the edge when it comes to romance. and in this bistro. its bar stocked with Pernod. its walls hung with tarnished mirrors reﬂecting the yellow light and its tables covered with paper cloths. you feel you are across the Channel. The food is enjoyable. but i found the escargotsa little rubbery on my most recent vist. Between £10—£ i 5 a head excluding wine. I 80’: Diner 57 Blackfriars Street. 557 6136. 7— 10.30pm Mon—Sat. Like the bar next door. this unpretentious little restaurant is pleasing in its tasteful simplicity. The menu is also attractive. featuring imaginative forays such as beef fillet pan-fried and served in a dark rum and banana cream sauce. and cashew nut and Chinese mushroom roast with a cointreau and smoked cheese cream sauce. Approximately £15 a head excluding wine. I The Vintner's Room 87 Giles Street. Leith. 554 6767. Noon—3.30pm. 6.30pm onwards. Mon—Sat. It would be hard to find anywhere more special or gorgeous than this. A rare balance between elegance and easy hospitality is struck, both in the Long Bar area . dominated by an impressive open fire. and the ornater plastered dining room. At night, stately proportions and mellow wood are further enhanced by white linen and candlelight. The Vintner‘s Room serves drinks to non-diners at lunchtime and in the evening. as well as offering a ﬁxed