wouldn't be able to. because of inadequate labelling. Ifyou were to read that there was ten per cent added water in your joint. would you be aware that this would actually mean fifteen per cent. as manufacturers are not obliged to disclose the first fiye per eent'.’ This is the kind of information we try to proyide on The Food Programme. Nobody else is going to tell you and I really belieye that people wish to change their diets.‘
And ('ooper hirnls'elf'.’ ‘We haye always eaten fresh food; it tastes so much better. My wife makes all our bread. soups and marmalade.‘ I Ie does not cook himself. claiming to be better at the typewriter. which is. howeyer. responsible for its own iniquities. ‘Liyery ’I‘hursday morning.‘ he confesses. “before I go to the BBC to write The Food Programme. I hay'e bacon and eggs for breakfast — there is no time to stop for lunch."
()ne food programme that Derek (‘ooper praises is BB(‘ Radio Scotland's The [fate/"s Digest. presented by Ken Sykora and produced by Michael Shaw. In fact. (‘ooper was one of the judges who awarded the programme the (ilenfiddieh Award for ‘the radio programme seen to hay‘e done the most to raise the standard of the as erage meal time.‘
Ken Sykora relishes the ability of radio to produce material on a human scale. Scotland is full of people with enormous enthusiasm for food. ‘\'ery often.‘ he says. 'they haye been in the business since they were kids and they take great pride in it — smoking fish. making cheese. the lady who has baked for the local community for decades and has all kinds of traditional recipes under her bonnet. Rather than haye some outside commentator. we haye the people themselyes talking about what they do.‘
Lnlike their teley'ision equiyalents. the recording crew is able to go to the sources of information with the minimum of equipment and talk to people on their own terms. As a result the programme has been congratulated for its relaxed. intimate and spontaneous feel. ‘\\'e go right through to the latest technological applications.‘ he explains. ‘We talked to the people in the factories who produce snowballs and chocolate wafers. We did one programme on Scottish sweeties — all the Varieties and specialities like Berwick (‘ockles and Edinburgh Rock. ’I‘hat led us to children's food; what they like and what they choose for themselyes.‘
As producer Michael Shaw explains. people haye become more adyenturous and the food business less stuffy. as committed indiy‘iduals without formal training succeed in running some of the best cafes and restaurants. A measure of this moy‘ement is the good response that
Lfood forums. held during the
preyious series. haye generated. People welcomed the chance to air their Views and to confront a team of experts. "I'he programme tries to be actiye on behalfof food in Scotland.‘ says Shaw. ‘I‘ior example. w e talked to young chefs —- the next generation who will be producing meals 7 and may be w e inspired other youngsters.‘
In addition to his amiable and unassuming manner. Sykora brings a wealth of experience to the programme. Not only has he been chef at his ow n hotel in Argyll. but he is a distinguished musician and musical broadcaster. liditions of The Eater's Digest are often giyen another dimension by rare recordings that he has unearthed from the depths of the BBC library. While I was talking to him. I heard a couple of wonderfully eyocatiye French songs. one incorporating a recipe for Bouillalniisse. the other a mouthwatering serenade to ehoeo/at. ‘Nobody else could haye found these apart from Is'enf says Michael Shaw. ‘It creates such a wonderful atmosphere around the programme - and its just a lot of fun.'
The l’ood Programme. BIN ‘ Radio 4. Friday 12.35pm. repeat .lloizday 7.20pm; The [fate/"s Digest. [me Radio Scot/and. from .33 May. Thursday [AW/rm, repeat 7.02pm. The series n'i/i (list) he hl'ottdt‘ttst on Rudioﬁ. Derek (‘ooper's hook. The Hehridearz (tHHlt’elftnl. ﬁrst published in N77, was reissued hy T'thItUItI on 14 .llareh.
FOOD NEWS GLASGOW
I Ventura Slt—btl King Street. (ilasgow. 553 I388. l‘ir'om Sunday 31 March. Ventura will be serying a stylish Sunday brunch to the accompaniment of liy'e jazz. Iinjoy a traditional breakfast. a Vegetarian Version with homemade muesli. lots of fruit and a fry—up. or a kosher-ster brunch with bagels. smoked salmon. herring and cream cheese. The performers will be I lue and (‘ry’s Nigel ('Iark on guitar. (‘hick l.yaII on piano and Andy Mitchell on double base. lintry is free. the doors will open at midday. and brunch will be seryed until 3pm.
I Chapter One Restaurant lzdinburgh Bookshop. 57 (ieot‘ge Street. :25 4495 ext 2b. The bookshop caIe has reopened with much more impressiy'e proportions. Not only has seating capacity doubled. but the range of food and drink on offer is much greater. 'l‘eas. capuccino and filter coffee are ayailablc all day . as well as a selection of home baking. salads. sandwiches and toasties. Ilot dishes. usually two yegetarian and two meat. might include lasagne. fried haddock. kedgeree or a leek and spinach bake. Opening hours: Mon and Sat Sam—5..“ﬂlpm. ‘l‘ue—I’ri SarnNﬁIIpin. Sun I I. IS;iiii—4..‘sllpiii,
If you want 0 go out to a
call us for starters.
\W \9—1/ ’- '\\
CALL 041 305 5500 FOR ( THE ( TO RESTAURANTS AND
/ ' Jay/mm GUIDE DIRECTORY OTHER ENTERTAINMENT
PIZZA YOU WISH YOUR MAMMA COULD MAKE
30 THE GRASSMARKET EDINBURGH - 225 6464
The List 23 March ~ 4 April 1991 77