is a fridge full ofChinese cakes and breads: chilled dim sum. dumplings and fish balls; Chinese bacon. sausage. bags full oftiny. silver dried anchovies. Chinese wines. honey. vinegar. . . Chung Ying is also amply stocked with Japanese basics and South East Asian ingredients such as lemon grass. tamarind. fish sauce
and galangal (a fragrant. mild form ofginger).
I Sin Fung 16 Bruntsfield Place. 228 6007. Smaller. and more expensive. but extremely evocative— exactly how I imagine China to be. It has no fresh produce. except some tofu which looks very good. but a taste of almost everything else is piled ceiling-high. It is obviously something ofa focal point ifthe newspapers. girlie magazines. hooks and advertisements for flights to China are anything to go by.
I Little Japan Delicatessen '6 Barclay Terrace. Bruntsfield. 228 5-148
(phone and fax). What a contrast is
to be found among the luridly packaged. highly processed fare in this. the sole example ofa Japanese food store. It is hard to tell which are the sweeties. which the toys and which the curry mixes and rice flavourings. such is the ubiquity of
the oblong pink and purple wrappers ‘ adornedbysmilingchildren‘sfaces. ; Many ofthe meals can be prepared . instantly— there is even meat and fish i expertly sliced and frozen ready for ' sushi. You can also have lunch boxes freshly prepared for you. containing sushi. sukiyaki. tempura and more.
3 though it is best to ring and order. particularly at weekends when
proprietor 'I‘sujino is mobbed by
‘ Japanese visitors from Livingston
and East Kilbride.
I Khyber Stores (ii) Lochrin Buildings. Gilmore Place. 22‘) 5016. Recommended by Shamiana. Like K.R.K. in (ilasgow. this is more than your average Indian grocer. It has
BACKLIST
FOOD
everything the Indian cook could dream of. including halal meat. If asked. Khyber's butcher is happy to marinade joints oflamb or tandoori chicken. ready for cooking. Specialities here are fresh coriander and fresh methi (fenugreek). both of which are kept in the fridge. unlike many a drooping bunch elsewhere. Khyber's also has a good selection of Indian sweetmeats. the best Pakistani mangos. betel nuts (chewed and deposited in spitoons
all over India) and ‘Best Hair'I'onic— '
darkens grey hair’!
_ IN PRINT
I Eastern Vegetarian Cooking Madhur Jaffrey (Jonathan Cape. £9.95). This culinary bible has been around for a few years now. but it is still well worth celebrating. So often. the Eastern cooking we encounter in the West. in restaurants and cookery books. is riddled with meat — fried rice will have prawns in it. vegetable soup. chicken stock. Here. Madhur Jaffrey offers a taste ofthe strong vegetarian traditions not only of India. but ofChina. Japan. South East Asia and the Middle East.
As well as being tremendously inspiring. she is also very practical. giving clear. tabulated information about ingredients. their origins and uses. menu suggestions and helpful. easy-to—follow cooking instructions. But the most obvious reason to use this book is that the recipes are absolutely delicious. for example cauliflower and potatoes cooked with fenugreek and fennel seeds (from North India); aubergine and long beans stewed in coconut milk (from Indonesia); and Iranian kookoo (souffle omelette) with courgette. dill and sultanas.
HEE- . ambushmvsmc :
Glasgow
I Tabak 219 Fenwick Road. Giffnock. (138 6797: 59 Byrcs Road. 339 8511. As we go to press. the self-styled ‘King of Bars' is extending its hold on the west coast. by opening a new branch in Giffnock. to add to its popular Byres Road venture. More details next issue.
Edinburgh
I Royal Highland Show Edinburgh Exhibition and Trade Centre. Ingliston. 333 2444. 20—23 June. The centrepiece of this year‘s ‘Food from Scotland‘ promotion is being provided by the Scottish Association of Master Bakers. Consuming 20.000 tons of oats and 3 million dozen eggs annually. bakers are among agriculture‘s biggest customers. Their
from the oven.
~ connectingchain between farmer and consumer. as wellasthe skillsofthc trade. Duringthe three-day show. there will be a full-scale working bakery in which demonstrations of puff pastry rolling. meringue piping. tart filling. doughnut frying. cake decoration and ofcourse bread baking will take place. There will also be a shop selling products hot
I Bridge Bar49L50
George IV Bridge. 220 4950. L'Odeon is no more. This apparently : prime site has gone through enough changes , to diagnose an identity crisis. [thought it had settled into the airy. open-all-hours. laid-back. newspaper-reading continental cafe that
central Edinburgh needed so badly. but it seems its
student clientele were spending more time reading than paying bills. I am assured by the management that the new pub is just as inviting. with its real ales andold photographs of bridges.
I D‘Arcy‘s The Lower Level. Waverley Shopping Centre. 557 3479. Open l0am—lam. This recently opened ‘French-style‘ wine bar and brasserie is promoting its pre-theatre menu (predictable but cheap at £7.50 for three courses) by offering ‘a special double feature' of a meal and a ticket to Phantom ofThe ()pera at the Playhouse for £15 (the ticket alone is worth £15.50). The dates are 10 and 11 July. butif you are interested. ring the restaurant and book now as they expect a rush ofenquiries in the two weeks before the performance.
W3391944
DINNER 6.30 pm. last orders 10.30 pm.
NOW OPEN FOR LUNCH WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY 11.45 'a.m. last orders 2.00 pm.
FRESH SEAFOOD
also meat and vegetarian dishes
PIZZA IN OUR TIME
THE GOURMET AMERICAN PIZZA HOUSE
HOME DELIVERIES
(Student Discount on request)
225 6464
We also deliver beer, wine, starters and desserts
28-30 THE GRASSMARKET EDlNBURGH EH1 2JU SUN -THURS :SPM - LATE FRI 5. SAT : 12PM - LATE
'I‘Ih‘I i\l IJ ‘q Inn.‘ l\)kII R1