1989 ‘Warrior Queen” collection, inspired by Joan of Arc. Although

5 her designs are clearly intended to be ' sexy, there‘s nothing of the submissive sex-object about them; rather they create a statement of independence bordering on defiance.

Independence characterises both Hogg’s designs and her character, and she is content to remain outside ofthe fashion mainstream. ‘I have never had a backer precisely because I don’t want to answer to anybody. I don’t want someone breathing down my neck saying, “That was a really good seller".‘ Although she acknowledges that she could get rich faster ifshe compromised more, she refuses to do so because ‘it would mean bastardising the work I do.‘ Her method of working is equally unconventional. Rather than starting with sketches or drawings, she maintains the spontaneity ofher approach by cutting directly onto the fabric, giving her ideas free rein and incorporating any mistakes into the design. She describes the creative process as being fairly chaotic and unplanned. ‘I get this feeling of everything in my head building up until it‘s like, BANG! and I say to myself. right Pam. go! And from then on I work absolutely flat out.’

Even though she often allows

Hot-pants and platforms stole my morality.

herselfjust two weeks to get a collection together. Hogg still sews all her own clothes, and is willing to change everything at the last minute if fresh inspiration strikes. The latest show. Hogg Couture, contains elements of parody and over-the-top glitz familiar from her previous work, but this time it seems to be fashion and glamour itselfshe is sending up, with Hollywood-influenced designs based on the images ofVeronica Lake and Jessica Rabbit.

Not content with her success in fashion design, Hogg’s latest ambition is to break into the world of rock’n‘roll. Having previously recorded a single with a band called The Garden of Eden, she is currently working with the London group Boys Wonder. She says there has been considerable record company interest in the project, and plans to take the next season off to concentrate on her singing. While this kind of venture is often viewed as a sign of success going to someone’s head, Hogg remains refreshingly down-to-earth and hype-free. She answers her own phone, carts her designs around in taxis and is happy to spend her evenings in the pub. Her parents, now living in Canada, help her to keep her feet on the ground. ‘I phoned my Mum last night to tell her about the Kelvingrove show and she just sort ofsaid, “Great dear, that‘s lovely you‘ve got a wee exhibition there."

Hogg-Couture runs at Kelvingmve Art Gallery, Glasgow until 4 August.


Far right: Gabardine swing coat worn over contrasting gaberdine suit with asymetric skirt. Middle: Oil-the-shouldervelvet cocktail dress. Right: Lycra velvet haltemeck dress with gold rope ties. Sketches by Christine Hammond tor Bruce

Bruce Oldfield. designer.

"I’he tashion design industry is traditionally ditticult to break into. Competitions such as this one provide exposure for the industry as a whole and especially support individual designers working very hard to make their mark.’

Entries are now being invited for Scotland’s only fashion designer awards. This year, as Kathleen Morgan reports, the theme is After Dark and the brief is to come up with a design that reflects what’s happening in the clubs.

To capture the energy of Scotland after dark, you‘ll need more than a hydro-electric power station. A pencil. a piece of blank paper and an appreciation of the toe-tapping, sweat-inducing world of the Scottish club scene would be more appropriate.

Entering its second year, and moving from the Caribbean- flavoured Ayrshire coast to Glasgow‘s latest hot-spot, The Tunnel. are Scotland’s only fashion designer awards. Established and sponsored by Bacardi Rum. and

74'I‘he List 12—25July I991