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Having wrapped up the Grassmarket last week. Catherine Fellows moves Leith—wards to single out
the best bars and restaurants in the
Broughton Street area. On the next page. our guide to speedy eating on
the Fringe.
Edinburgh's East Iind. focused on Broughton Street. is a lively and cosmopolitan area. its character
reflected and fostered in a
concentration of varied pubs and restaurants. The Italian community is particularly prominent. and
wandering into some of the
trattorias. Italian bakeries and delicatessens that cluster at the top of Leith Walk. you can find yourself surrounded by swinging salamis and slabs of parmesan and caught up in the cross-fire of a conversation as animated and musical as any car-ad
stereotype.
In fact. on a sunny day. it would probably be worth forsaking all the Festival refuelling stops I atn about to describe. and basking in Valvona and Crolla for long enough to gather a picnic of bread. olives. gorgonzola. a bottle of Bardolini or Chianti. and then heading to the Botanic (iarden. or (‘alton Hill — or the nearest bench.
On the other hand. you may be an Italian who has travelled some way to see Edinburgh. The pubs of Broughton Street would be as good a place as any to start. One or two that shall remain nameless. but you can’t miss them. are probably very typical : —but pretty seedy. I know kitsch fans l
in this office who are rather partial to their’l‘Vs and fruit machines or smoked glass and rotating disco orbs. but the traditional polished brass. stained glass and gilt mirrors of the Barony and Mathers may be the shining face most people had in mind when they booked their tickets north
—orsouth.
As I have said. the variety here is wide. so whether you are escaping from the crush in the centre of town at lunchtime. or pouring out of an evening performance at the Playhouse. whether you have a wallet heavy with plastic or just light. there is likely to be somewhere here
that will feed you to your satisfaction.
I The Barony Bar 81 Broughton
Street. 557 ()546. 'I’ue—Sat
Ham—midnight: Sun—Mon
llam—l 1pm. (‘omfortable and bustling Victorian bar which has had an attractive facelift. Something of a
focal point for the area.
I Blue Moon Cafe on Broughton Street. 556 2783. Daily 1 lam-l lpm (no food after 10.30pm ). Attractive and welcoming cafe favoured by Edinburgh‘s lesbian and gay community — interesting ‘objets d’art'. and food. Mostly vegetarian hot dishes. colourful salads. chocolate bars. and. unusually. a big bowl of tomatoes. Prices are reasonable. and they are quite happy to serve you just coffee or cake.
I Cale Royal Circle Bar 17 West Register Street. 556 1884. .‘vIon—Ihurs l lam—lam: Fri Sat llam-Zam. Sun noon-l 1pm. Ilidden behind the St James Centre. this impressive island bar is not far from I’icardy I’lace. It is usually busy and noisy. but nabbing one of the
F E S'Tl V A l
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table booths guarantees you an oasis ofintimacy.
I Cale Royal Oyster Bar 17a Wes-t Register Street. 556 4124. Noon—2pm. 7—10. 15pm. Adjacent to the (‘ircle Bar. this restaurant is quite a contrast in terms of atmosphere. With its crisp white linen and a fabulous late Victorian interior. it was the setting for dinner in David I’uttnam's ('lmriors ()j'l’irt'. Very special. classic food with an emphasis on seafood. sumptuous brunch on Sundays. and suitably expensive.
I Chan‘s Restaurant 1 I’orth Street. 556 71 18. (‘hinese food which stands out from the crowd. I Inusually. there is an extensive choice for vegetarians in this reasonably priced. possible post-Playhouse eaterie.
I Golden Bengal ()a Antigua Street. 556 3460. Do not be put off by the unprepossessing appearance of this place -- it serves a good curry. and is conveniently situated for takeaway. Beware though. its moderate prices are compensated for by inordinately expensive rice.
I Khushi's Tandoori 32c Broughton Street. 556 8092. 'I'andoori specialist with a good reputation. particularly for their nan bread. Try a plain or mango lassi — delicious Indian yoghurt drink.
I Marrakech 30 London Street. 556 7293. Open 6pm. last orders lllpm; closed Sun. Scotland‘s only Moroccan restaurant serving North African specialities such as couscous and tajin ~ a casserole made with lamb. chicken or fish. 'I‘he restaurant is not licensed. so take your own wine or beer.
I Mathers Bar 25 Broughton Street. 5566754. I lattimiitlrtiglit. Impressive old-style bar popular
HIT LIST
Catherine Fellows with the
best places to eat and drink.
I I City Cafe The cool. 5 stylish black and chrome interiorofthiscentral30s
American diner-type cafe provide a calming environment for morning Fringe Programme thutnbing. (‘appuccinos. cspt'essos and wickedly frothy liotchocolates. along with weekday croissants and. on Sundays. a full brunch menu until 3pm.
('in ( 'tift’. I 9 liltiirSlrt'cl. 220 0/25. Daily H.30mn— lam.
I Whighams lntitnale anti
atmosphericcellarbar.
l pint on a sunny afternoon. .
l l l
with a tasty. predominanter seafood menu at lunchtime. I’opular with West Iind office workers who like to occupy the booths in the buildings bowels. but presumably they will make way for Fringe-goers. ll’liig/rums. 13 Hope Street. 225 9717.
.llon- [Ii/HUS
noon midnight; I‘ri noon— lum; Sun closed. Foot] unit/2.30/mr.
I Peartree House One of the city's tnost pleasant and spacious beer gardens. Definitely the place to be for an early
l’t'urrrt't’ House. 36 this! Nicholson Street. 667
7 796. .Sun— ll't’tl
llum- llpm; Thurs. Fri and So! llum- 11.45pm (may/w lult'r ~ still negotiating I’t'stii'u/ hours).
I Waterloo Place It is hard
to believe when you look
at the menu that the prices
are so accessible.
: I'ncluttered. but special dishes such as fillet of
Scotch beef with woodears
and chillies. are around £7. Iinticing starters such as pigeon breast with ('hinesc v egetablcs. and stimptuous putls like apricot ice cream with compote of apricots are £3.50. I cannot think of any where I would rather hav c dinner. Booking advisable.
ll'ult'rlrm I’ltlt‘t'. 3‘) ll‘tllt’r/oo Place. 55 70007. .llon- Sttlnoon- 10..i’0/mi. I L'Alba D'Oro Legendary fish and chip shop. and post-theatre binge facilitator. As well as
scv eral kinds of fish there is a choice ol'other midning feast material. including piuas prepared on the spot w ilh hundreds oftliflct'enl toppings.
I. Ell/m I)’()ro. 5 Henderson Run; 5.5 5 2567/. Dru/v
l0trm /._\’0/nn.
l4..i()/mr l2..i’0mn.
F000
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Food Whatdo you fancy? A glance f ; at the exclusive l i winelisl. or : : extra chilli
sauce on your ; kebab? All
culinarylile is
The List lo 22 August Will 71