For a special taste oi Spain, Derrick Sutherland, chat at Glasgow’s tapas-specialist Junkanoo, picks one oi his iavourite dishes- meatballs in brandy and tomato gravy. The beel broth used in the recipe could be replaced by a stock cube, but you'll taste the beneiit of making your own.

He recommends you serve the meal

with a full-bodied wine and recommends Torres Coronas.


1lb minced beet

2 eggs

3 cloves of garlic

V2 tsp salt



n V4 tsp ground pepper

? 1Vzoz chopped parsley

V2 cup home-made bread crumbs

V2 glass red wine

2 tbsp olive all

i 1 medium onion (chopped)

. V4 cup brandy (prelerably Spanish)

1 11b tin oi tomatoes

; 1 tbsp tomato puree

6 V2 pint beet broth (made with bones,

f onion, carrot, celery, bouquet garni).

Combine the meat, eggs, two cloves ot garlic, 102 at the parsley, the salt and pepper. Soiten the breadcrumbs with the wine. Add breadcrumbs to meat and mix well using your hands and iorm 16-20 meatballs, then dust

Derrick Sutherland cooks up a Spanish favourite

with ilour. Heat olive oil in a large shallow pan, add meatballs, and brown (do this in

two lots lithe pan is not large enough to take them in a single layer). Remove the meatballs once browned.

How soiten the onion, one clove oi garlic and Vzoz parsley in the same pan.

Return meatballs to the pan, turn up heat, add the brandy and set alight. Stand back as flames may go quite high. Shake pan until tlames die down.

Add tomatoes, puree and broth and season, reduce heat, cover and cook at a low heat for thirty minutes. Adjust seasoning and serve with rice and pasta and salad. Oue aproveche!

= Junkanoo,111 Hope Street, Glasgow, 041 248 7102. Mon—Sat noon-late; Sun


to drink alcohol without eating something. Apparently, bright young Spaniards commonly go on what you might call a ‘tapas crawl', moving from bar to bar sampling the

house specialities. which sounds like 3

a fine way to spend an evening.

In Spain you can eat tapas in a wide variety ofsettings. from down-to-earth, neighbourhood cafe-bars to much more up-market establishments specialising in exotic regional delicacies. The former will routinely serve things like olives. Russian salad. Chorizos, Spanish tortilla, spicy meatballs and potato croquettes, all for around 20—50p a portion. Moving further up the (price) range, the possibilities are virtually limitless stuffed peppers, garlic mushrooms. fried calamares, kidneys in sherry, spicy boiled octopus, canape’s of bechamel-coated veal, wild mushrooms with brains and cured ham a tapas tour of Spain sounds

' like a foodie‘s heaven.

Tapas have been playing their distinctive part in the Spanish lifestyle since the 19th century, but

Allan Mawn oi Restaurante Barcelona


At the Junkanoo in Glasgow. you choose from a list ofdishes such as pork kebabs. marinaded herring.

; deep-fried cheese balls and spiced

it’s only recently that other countries .

have begun waking up to their many attractions. Over here, tapas bars are starting to be hyped as the Next Big Thing in stylish eating. after too many people came down with food poisoning from sushi made with North Sea fish. However, for a nation brought up to eat lunch at one, dinner at six or seven, and schooled to frown upon eating between meals, certain adjustments have to be made. So far, British tapas bars are marketing the idea more as a multi-component main meal rather than as an appetiser or



coleslaw, ranging in price from

£1—£4.25. Igg’s in Edinburgh serves a

£4.50 tapas lunch, which might include steamed mussels, spicy meatballs. fried potatoes in garlic mayonnaise, saute’ed squid rings. a chicken drumstick in a dill sauce a little ofeach. with salad, bread and olives. As this suggests. eating tapas

neatly sidesteps the problem of being

spoilt for choice when faced with an all-too tempting menu. It‘d be a

I shame, though, ifwe proved to be

too conservative in our eating habits for the casual and wonderfully flexible way tapas is eaten in Spain to take off here. If Scots could buy something tasty, cheap and satisfying (no, mince pies don‘t count) to consume along with their pint of heavy, who knows it might even put some of the dodgier kebab shops out ofbusiness.


I Junkanoo 111 Howe Street, Glasgow. 041 248 7102. Mon—Sat noon-late; Sun 6.30pm—late.

I Barcelona 16 Byres Road. Glasgow, 041 357 0994. Mon-Fri Noon~2.30pm; Daily 7pm—10.30pm.


I Counting House 32/2 West Nicolson Street, Edinburgh, 031 662 0781. Flamenco and Tapas Nights, Tue 3 and Tue 17 Dec, from 8.30pm.

I “36': 15 Jeffrey Street. Edinburgh.03l 557 8184. Tapas lunches served noon—2pm.

In Print

I Tapas: The Little Dishes of Spain Penelope Casas (Pavilion £9.99)

I Tapas: Delicious Snacks irom Spain ; Adrian Lissen with Sara Cleary (The Apple Press £7.95)

/ TAU'


Bistro menu- mm:-



A la Carte 6pm~1 1pm ' ,

Table reservations o cums mnu

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04I-534 5001

Ubiquitour Chip Wine Shop

Glorgow’r Independent Wine and Spirit merchant


8 nrhlen lone,GlnrgowGl2


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The List 22 November- 5 December 1991 79