BAGKLIST
FOOD
the products of some of these nations: shouldn’t they be benefitting from our insatiable desire for the new and exotic? What the example of Cafe Direct requires is that as consumers, we demand that our coffee satisfies more than our palates. After all, there is nothing very tasty about flattened forests and abject poverty.
I OLD HSHMARKL-T CLOSE EDINBURGH
ibrosserie
W open seven days food served all day fri 8r sat
restaurant
fuesday— soturday 1900 - 2200
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One or Two Things about Coflee
I There are two major kinds of coffee bean. Robusta and Arabica. Good quality coffee will be Arabica — look for the name — cheap coffee and most instant
is made from Robusta or Arabica ‘sweepings‘. I Size and colour are not necessarily indicators of bean quality. I Strength is not to do with the quantity of coffee in the pot. but with the character of the bean. I Coffee can deteriorate very quickly. Store as airtight as possible. in the fridge. Beans can be frozen and ground straight from the freezer. For freshness. buy coffee from somewhere with a high turnover — a supermarket or coffee specialist. I A continental roast, like a house wine. will be different everywhere. it could be any bean variety or any combination, but it is usually medium to high roast. I Espresso - any kind of dark strong bean. very high roast. Espresso machines will take any beans. Like Turkish coffee. the fine grind is what differentiates it. I Bean varieties: since any particular region will produce many different types ofbcan. not to mention different grades, different roasts and different vinatges. it is pretty difficult to generalise about coffees. An extreme example is Costa Rican coffee. Much of it is hardly worth drinking. and yet a packet from the co-op which supplies Cafe Direct was some of the best coffee I have tasted. With help from Christine Kinnell. here are the most common types of coffee: Columbian Full bodied. rich but not strong. A mild coffee considered to be
Scottish theatre today.
Name Address
‘ "5 y . _. r3:
| THEATRE SCOTLAND
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GRAINSTORE RESTAURANT
One of Edinburgh's newest restaurants, the Grainstore is already gaining a reputation for imaginative and healthy food. Cooking team Carlo Coxon and, believe it or not, Roger Moore take pride in allowing the best, freshest ingredients to speak for themselves in their dishes- no smothering sauces here.
Carl Coxon and Roger Moore
FLAVOUR OF THE FORTNIGHT
CHICKEN LIVER SALAD WITH
RASPBERRY VINEGAR
Serves four:
1202 chicken livers
3 finely diced shallots
‘A cup finely chopped parsley
6 tbsp raspberry vinegar
oak leaf, chicory and raddiccio leaves (as you like, any salad leaves will do) lresh raspberries (if available)
salt and pepper
(use freshest ingredients possible for best results)
Wash and lightly dress the salad leaves. Clean the chicken livers and season them (two parts pepper, one salt). Heat some vegetable oil in a sauté pan until very hot. Flash fry the livers- one minute on each side approximately. Add shallots and sweat for a few moments. Deglaze with raspberry vinegar (ie add it to the pan) and reduce until syrupy. The livers should be firm to the touch by this stage. Finally roll them in the parsley and spoon onto the prepared leaves. Serve immediately, garnished with fresh raspberries.
Grainstore Restaurant, 30 Victoria Street, Edinburgh, 031 225 7635.
enhanced by sugar. Good at tea-time with chocolate biscuits Java Strong. nutty. very aromatic coffee. Brazilian Very light and refreshing. not strong at all (and yet. funnily enough. favoured by ltalians). Kenyan Medium taste. quite full bodied. quite high acidity. Very drinkable. asafe bet and a good place to begin an exploration of coffee. I Jamaican Blue Mountain Legendary king of coffees. ‘The only coffee that really tasted as good as it smelled.‘ In very short supply. and very expensive. ifyou do lay your hands on the real McCoy. it could cost £30 per lb.
CAFE DIRECT STOCKISTS
As well as Oxlam shops and Traidcraft representatives. several wholefood shops and delicatessens now sell
Cafe Direct. Let‘s hope it will be the supermarkets next.
Glasgow
I Centrepeace Stockwell Street. I Pure Necessities Great Western Road.
I Evergreen Nithsdale Road.
Edinburgh
I One World Shop St John‘s Church Hall, Princes Street.
I Real Foods Brougham Place and Broughton Street.
I Nature’s Gate Clerk Street.
I Student Union Shop David Hume Tower, George Square.
I Charlie McNair's Forrest Road. I Jordan Valley Nicolson Street.
I Haddows Roseneath Street.
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«33/75 MACALLAN RESTAURANT , . onus YEAR \ SCOTTISH WINE MERCHANT OF THE YEAR
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GLASGOW, SCOTLAND
TEL: 041-334 5007
66 The List 31 January - 13 February 1992