FLAVDUR OF THE FDRTNIGHT
a Kathry Hamlton suggests a Stateide
The inspiration of this popular Bar Ten salad comes trom the recipes at The Greens Restaurant in San Francisco.
NDDDLE SALAD WITH CHARRED CDURGETT ES AND TDASTED SESAME SEEDS
7 tablespoons dark sesame oil
7 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 3-4 tablespoons castor sugar
2 teaspoons salt
One packet Chinese Egg Noodles (Instant)
4oz sesame seeds
2 cloves garlic- crushed
1 tablespoon tresth grated root ginger Fresh coriander, linely chopped (opﬂonan
First make the marinade by combining the oil, soy sauce, vinegar, salt and sugar in a bowl. Stir until the sugar is
Bring a large pot of water to the boil and add the noodles. Cook tor 3-4 minutes until done but not too soft then pour into a colander and immediately rinse in cold water to stop any further cooking. Shake the colander to remove any excess water, then put the noodles in a bowl. Pour halt the marinade over the noodles and mix well.
Slice the courgettes in hall and brush lightly with oil, then place under a hot grill and cook until the skin is just blistered. Remove trom heat and slice into small pieces.
Toast the sesame seeds in a hot pan until they are tightly coloured and smell toasty.
Add the ginger and garlic to the remaining marinade, then gently toss the courgettes in the marinade and mix into the noodles. Add the sesame seeds and mix well until everything is coated.
Garnish with coriander ll wished and serve warm or cold.
Ten, Mitchell Lane, Glasgow, 041 221 8353.
Variety of Spices
Edinburgh’s newest Indian restaurant has proved an instant hit. Catherine Fellows finds
Spices has been open for just three weeks, but it already has its regulars. As I sit at the front table with Moussa Jogee, one of its founding partners, he is greeted by one after another friend and diner, congratulating him on his latest venture. Moussa J ogee is a seasoned Edinburgh restaurateur. having established the Howtowdie, the Shamiana and, his greatest success, the Kalpna in Nicolson Street - the only one with
which he is still involved.
The new restaurant is
more plush than the Kalpna, the latter‘s simple interior designed to appeal to the vegetarian faithfuls
‘with their minds on higher things’. At Spices, customers are offered meat and are greeted by an unashamedly sensual waft of incense as they walk in.
Spices might not seem the most inspired name but, as the menu points out, these ‘exotic and aromatic’ substances that ‘have for centuries had the power to provoke wars and to build and destroy empires‘, are used in a distinctive way by the team of chefs. The restaurant roasts, grinds and blends its own spices, and wherever possible uses fresh ones.
We started our meal with an impressive selection of meats from the tandooor oven, served on a bed of salad with fresh lime segments. The seekh kebabs were tasty portions of ground lamb full of
I Sea Food Fair On Sunday 24 May you can enjot a feast of West Coast sea food at Clachan Farm. near Cairndow at the Head of Loch Fyne on the A38. Running from 1 lam. the fair will offer you the chance to do some wine tasting while listening to live music and in the evening for £15 you can join in a buffet and dance (booking on 04996 236).
I Traditional Beer Festival The Caledonian Brewery last year held the largest cask beer festival ever in Scotland with 30000 glasses of beer consumed
over three days, and it
' aims to repeat the success
on Thurs 4—Sat 6 June this
: year. The public can
sample Caledonian's award-winning beers from
' 5—1 1pm on Thursday and
noon—11pm on Friday and Saturday. As well as the eight Caledonian varieties, there will be a long list of English and Continental beers on
5 offer. Oysters, pakoras.
| l l l
chillis and steak sandwiches will also be available. Details on 337 1286.
I Spring Fling A handful of Edinburgh restaurants
; are joining in with the
European ﬂavour ofthc city‘s community festival
which runs Thurs 28
May—Sat 6Junc. The
Theatre Workshop Cafe in Stockbridge will benefit from the culinary skills of Nina Powluk, chcfat the Intourist Hotel in Kiev, who will also be paying visits to other restaurants and hotels. The Scandic
Crown Hotel on the High
Street is having an Italian Week; Hendersons in Hanover Street has a Spanish Evening on Fri 29 May and an Italian Evening on Tue 2 June; India Gate in Brougbton Street is running a Festival lndia'menu; the Roxburghe Hotel in Charlotte Square has a French lunch menu; and the French lnstitute‘s Cafe Odile is serving authentic French cuisine at lunchtimes.
a: en: fr‘ a u‘.':'.".'.:. 3 0—0—0: - ‘ ail
Ubiquitous C Dip:
MACALLAN RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR
SCOTTISH WINE MERCHANT OF THE YEAR
TEL: 041-334 5007
peppery ﬂavour and laced with fresh coriander leaves. Lamb and chicken tikka were delicious. exceptionally tender and with a really good charcoal ﬂavour.
To follow, we tried butter chicken, a rich tomato sauce covering succulent pieces of chicken that have been previously barbecued in the tandoor. The ﬂavours of fresh tomatoes and green herbs were so marked that the dish had a Mediterranean quality, but it left a pleasing, and definitely Indian heat on the palate. We also shared a generous portion of korma kadhai, a creamy, mild dish made from small pieces of lamb, lots of almonds and sultanas with cream and home-made yoghurt. It had a wonderful complexity of ﬂavours, and interesting textures.
Spices is still a good bet for vegetarians — starter options include paneer tikka, and fruit chaat, a combination of spiced potatoes and fresh fruit in tamarind sauce, while for a main course, you could choose cauliﬂower and peas cooked with roasted almonds and tomatoes or lentils in butter, cream, spices and herbs.
Genuine Indian desserts are something ofan acquired taste, but Spices has avoided the extremely sweet varieties in favour of kulfis — or pistachio ice-creams — and reduced milk ‘sponge‘ confections far more likely to appeal to Western tastes. An appealing finishing touch to the meal is the choice of saffron or cardamom tea.
I thoroughly recommend Spices — the atmosphere is attractive, the cooking exceptional, and though prices are higher than those at the Kalpna (£3 starter, £7 main course) the portions are more substantial, and they are no higher than those of many inferior competitors.
Spices, 110 West Bow, Grassmarket, Edinburgh, 03] 225 5028. Open seven days: noon—2pm, 6—10.30pm ( last orders ). Booking advisable.
b r a s s e r I e
open seven days food served all day tri 8x sat
tuesday- saturday 1900 - 2200
The List 22 May — 4 June 1992 67