don’t stock them because the customers don’t buy them and the customers don’t buy them because the tlshmongers don’t stock them. ilowever, both retailers and public are becoming more adventurous - prepared to go with an open mind and buy what the day’s catch has brought in.
Coley lts long history as a poor relation to cod and haddock is probably based on nothing more than the greyish tinge of its meat. This turns white on cooking anyway, and it is perfectly adequate for most recipes requiring ﬁrm white ﬁsh. Gurnard An impressive-looking ﬁsh — pinkish, with a big angular head and feathery ﬁns. It is very tasty cooked whole in foil with a few herbs, the ﬂesh delicate. and though white. nearer to trout.
lluss (Dogﬁsh) Very tasty round ﬁsh, with a ﬁrm white flesh and no bones except for the big one down the centre which can be easily removed. Grilled steaks or kebabs work well.
ling A ﬁrm-fleshed, chunky. meaty white ﬁsh, quite coarse in texture but not unpleasantly so. A perfect
substitute for cod or haddock and often literally half the price.
Megrlm A flat ﬁsh that can be grilled or baked as plaice or sole.
Pollack A round, white ﬁsh with a ﬁrm, ﬂakey texture — good candidate for Provencale sauce.
Sea Cat Not a double-hulled boat but a dark-grey ﬁsh with a long. eel-like body and a large. ugly head that looks like a eat if you have a sadistic imagination. Nevertheless. ﬁne and ﬂavoursome — sometimes referred to as mock John Dory.
Skate Distinctively wing~shaped. this ﬁsh looks full of bones but it's not. In fact. its bones are fused into a single, central structure, making the succulent flesh easy to pull away. Less likely to disintegrate than sole or plaice when shallow-fried, it has a fresh, and in white-ﬁsh terms. strong ﬂavour.
Squid Not strictly a ﬁsh — a cephalopod in fact — but worthy of more attention. Wonderful addition to soups and casseroles, and delicious simply cut into rings, stir fried for ten minutes in its own juices - throw in garlic. olive oil and a handful of ﬂat-leafed parsley at the last minute.
Witch Hard to distinguish from lemon sole by appearance. this ﬂat ﬁsh may not taste quite as good. but then it is a whole lot cheaper.
MaCallum 's of Troon, in fact to be found at 944 Argyle Street. is the place to go for ﬁsh in Glasgow. There is a huge variety of ﬁsh from all over Scotland. and the reputation for qualit) is such that many restaurant chefs will go nowhere else.
Eddie K wok. of TSE 's Fish Market in Edinburgh 's Marchmont. has always been able to keep a diverse stock because of a core of international customers -- C hinese, Japanese. Scandinavian — who are more adventurous with ﬁsh. Now his reputation is such that disceming individuals and restaurateurs alike ﬂock to him for unusual supplies.
Apart from the species listed above. which they get when they can, both merchants also offer many superb ﬁsh at the top end of the market — brill, sea bass. turbot. halibut. lobster. langoustine, monkﬁsh. dover sole . . .
followed by a selection of main dishes including I Cali Serghei 67 Bridge kebabs, stefado. keleftiko
Street. 429 l547. The most recent in a series of Greek restaurants to be opened in Glasgow — the proprietor was behind Stakis. the Parthenon and Spartacus — Café Serghei is certainly the most spectacular. Once a bank. the interior retains the original tiles and wooden panelling. and has an impressive dome in the middle of the ceiling. Apart from the a la carte menu. the restaurant offers a lavish mezedes or selection of traditional dishes. For £32 for two, you will be served starters such as calamari.
olives, taramasalata. and feta cheese with pitta bread,
(lamb on the bone) and Greek salad. The price also includes puds and coffee. Open Mon—Sat, noon—2.30pm, 7 days,
5—1 lpm (last orders). _ I Pierre Vlctolre 9i Miller ! 3 Street, 221 7565. it had to happen: the'incredibly successful chain of Edinburgh French restaurants has come to Glasgow. The new restaurant. which is bigger than any of its predecessors. is run by Michael Divers who has bought the franchise for this and any future outlets in Glasgow.
He is determined that Pierre Levicky's winning formula will be rigorously adhered to. and he has the services of one of the chain‘s long- serving chefs. At last Glasgow can enjoy the relaxed atmosphere. quality French food, and above all. reasonable prices that are Levicky's hallmarks. Three- course lunch is still to be had for £4.99. Mon—Sat. noon—3pm, 6—l lpm.
I Norwegian Cafe The Barony. Strathclyde University Union; The Foyer, Glasgow University Union. As part of Scottish—Norwegian week '93. Norwegian food is to be served free in the above student unions! 23. 24 and 25 Feb. noon—2pm.
FLAVOUB OF THE FORTNIGHT
In their attempts to drum up enthusiasm tor more unusual llsh, the Sea Fish Authority have published a series of recipe leaﬂets. An example is given for you here, but more are available on request. Please write enclosing an M s.li.E. to lleclpe leaﬂets, PO Box 1m, Edinburgh EH7 dils.
ﬂitltli nuss KEBABS (serves 4) 1 lb huss tlllets, skinned and cubed (or any firm white fish) 2 tbsps tilrlta paste , 2 tbsps natural yoghurt 1 green pepper, deseeded and cut into squares. Blend the tlitlta paste with the yoghurt. Thread the tlsh and pepper alternater onto tour short skewers and brush them generously with tlltlta mix. Cook under a preheated grill for
8-12 minutes, tumlng once and basting with any remaining tlltlta paste. Serve with pitta bread or rice and a green salad.
l The l2—25 February Hill} 77