__ L g . i friends
Our love of French cakes I goes back to Mary Queen l of Scots. Ruth Thomas visits a couple of bakeries that are rekindling auld alliances.
Another cold summer in Scotland. You 3 might ﬁnd this a depressing prospect. but Bertrand Espouy. patisserie chef at The Auld Alliance in Edinburgh. positively welcomes it. ‘Humidity is the worst thing that can happen to a patisserie.‘ explains the baker's wife, Lorraine Doherty. gesturing to the 5 general dreichness outside. ‘Things go stale quicker in hot weather so Bertrand loves days like this.‘ ' The French dessert was already common in this country by the time 1 Mary Queen of Scots arrived in 1561: now it seems to be enjoying a renaissance. The recent trend in 3 Edinburgh began with Cafe Florentin
where Francophtlcs can be Sccn ! the night. Newly-established. The Auld its name suggests. the shop combines find Dundee cake on the counter consuming brioches at strange hours of Alliance has a different approach. As i Scottish and French baking — so you‘ll alongside the clafouti. ‘Sometimes my
Why run on empty?
When you can have plenty. . . .S 0
. . it makes good sense
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The List l—l4 July I994 89