FOOD & DRINK
The big breakfast
Hannah Robinson tells us why there’s more to breakfast than GMTV, while Jonathan Trew goes in search of the perfect bacon buttie.
During his 18th century road trip, Dr Johnson discovered many things he didn’t know about Scotland. One of them was breakfast. ‘In the breakfast. the Scots. whether of Lowlands or mountains. must be confessed to excel us. If an epicure could move by a wish in a quest of sensual gratiﬁcation. wherever he has supped, he would breakfast in Scotland.‘ Too true, Sammy. As producers of some of the world‘s best breakfast fare (porridge. marmalade. tattie scones. kippers, smoked salmon). time and money permitting. we have the best ingredients 1 for the perfect slap-up breakfast at our ﬁngertips.
For most. breakfast consists of a rushed cup of coffee and a slice of toast as we ﬂy out the door in the morning. A leisurely breakfast is a luxury to be enjoyed on holiday or at the weekends. In New York. Sunday brunch is both an institution and the perfect hangover cure. Brunch can last for three or four hours and most places serve freshly brewed coffee alongside unlimited Bloody Marys or Mimosas (Bucks Fizz) for those who believe the best approach is hair of the dog. On most
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brunch menus you will ﬁnd waffles or French toast with bacon and real maple syrup. warm bagels with smoked salmon and cream cheese. huevos rancheros — cn'spy corn tortillas with a dollop of refried beans. a couple of fried eggs and a smothering of salsa and guacamole. Scrambled eggs with smoked salmon or fresh coriander on toast, eggs benedict — poached on an
Q English mufﬁn with parma ham and
§ hollandaise sauce. Ouefs en comtre — i baked in little ramekins topped with
= crunchy bacon. Pancakes. Dropped
scones. Hash browns. Comfort food for
mind and body.
Nearer home. a traditional fry up is
hard to beat. ifa little less
cosmopolitan. For those in search of brunch, an increasing number of places
have started offering excellent menus and use the best Scottish ingredients
which knock the spots off what you might ﬁnd further aﬁeld. If you're not feeling too queasy.
oysters make for a healthy. indulgent ' pick-you-up and are especially good with a drop of tabasco and a squeeze of
lemon juice. If you’re cooking at home. poached eggs on toast with cream
cheese mixed with a little horseradish and topped with lumpﬁsh caviar is great for a special breakfast. If you like a ﬁshy start to the day. cod roe dusted in ﬂour and l mustard powder and fried in butter is l phenomenal on toast. Traditional Scots i porridge with distinctly un-Presbyten'an ; cream and honey is especially good and ? will give you that warm glowing ; feeling on the coldest winter morning. For those in search of something healthier, plain yoghurt with fruit (try Marks and Spencer's fruit compbte)
5 HUNTER SQUARE
just off Royal Mile EDINBURGH
Open Seven Days
- 1 1.00pm
All Day Breakfasts/Brunch
Egon Ronoy Recommended
M CLAREN AN!) MOI‘FAT
and honey will set you up for the day. There are endless cereals to choose from and most health shops make up their own mueslis which are full of delicious dried fruit and nuts. Best of all is fresh juice which can range from classic orange to inﬁnite combinations ofexotic fruits and vegetables. A juicer can be an excellent investment. enabling you to ﬁnd your dream combination of flavours. Apple and pear with a cube of fresh ginger will give you a massive fructose rush and keep you buzzing all day.
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N The List l0-23 Feb l995