F... & DRINK

Feefing Pictish? Nip overto Hadrian's

Art deco comes back to Edinburgh as the Balmoral Hotel launches a new restaurant: Hadrian's. Words: Jonathan Trew

Hotel restaurants aren't necessarily the first places whrch spring to mind when trying to decide where to eat out. In many of them, especially the more luxurious establishments, the atmosphere can be intimidatingly formal and the pnces enough to discourage all but the people who can afford to stay In five star hotels. Hadrian's in the Balmoral Hotel aims to change these QETCGDIIOHS. Formerly the Bridges Brasserie, the premises have been completely redesigned in an art deco style offset With a handful of African touches. It’s large enough to


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7 Old Fishmarket Close Edinburgh ' Lunch and Dinner Monday to Thursday. i" Friday, Saturday and Sunday open all day

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handle tOS covers while remaining roomy and the huge windows looking out onto Salisbury Crags increase the feeling of space.

While remaining part of the Balmoral, Hadrian’s is to be run as a semi- separate entity with its own kitchens. Leading the kitchen team is Martin Wishart, an Edinburgh born chef who has worked across the world with the likes of Michel Roux jnr at La Gavroche, at L’Ortolan and at Marco Pierre White's. Wishart is a firm believer in using local produce wherever possible and has sourced oysters from Sell as well as salmon from the Tay and, of course, beef from Angus.

He uses these ingredients to create dishes which combine modern British styles With the occasional Mediterranean influence. On the plate, this translates into starters such as cock a Ieekie soup rubbing shoulders With saffron risotto and girolles or there are salads of


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25 years of traditional Scottish cooking



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Hadrian's: art deco and a well thought-out menu.

grilled sea scallops Wlth gazpacho sitting next to smoked salmon papillotte and toasted brioche. The starters range in pnce from £3.50 for soup up to £8 for the scallops

The mam courses range from traditional dishes like grilled lamb kidneys, leaf spinach and shallot cream sauce diable to more complicated confits Of salmon bois‘ boudr/n With

At a recent menu tasting, a selection of the dishes all drew admiring comments from the assembled food writers and, for the quality of the food and service on offer, it’s fair to say that Hadrian's offers value for money on the food front.

salad and parsley flCW’ prildtw'; {.1031 Of the dishes weigh in at

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£10 mark

The desserts run to a lill'l’i~i)(”t(ii.’i4; cholc’e of ten Includlnri sariirlt‘. crumbles and, unusual for most

restaurants although in keepznc; vat“. the menu here, creamed nr‘e puddrvid The majority of the deserts ml! add

about £4 to the hrll A l2 ‘Q~".; discretional servrce charge ml! add more.

At these prices, Hadrian's us far horn cheap and cheerful and rt may not ire ternny popular \"Jltil the impulse (lll‘é‘l who fancies a otiick title to eat, hut then nor is li even rn sight or the top end of the pnce bracket At a rumml menu tasting, a selection of the dishes all drew admiring comments from the assembled food VVTIIQTS and, for the quality of the food and service on offer, It’s fan to say that Hadrian's Offers value for money on the food front.

Hadrian's, Balmoral Hotel, Princes Street, 557 5000.

Mellow yello

Continuing to hammer nails into the coffin of the traditional boozer, a new colour-themed style bar has opened it's doors to Glasgow. Words: Rory Weller

Yello is the latest addition to Glasgow’s collection of style bars, and it shamelessly pitches Itself as the place for the glam set to see and be seen. Hidden down Mltchell Lane, Within easy sashay from Argyle and Buchanan Street, it is perfectly placed to get the office trade dunng the day and crank up a gear to warm-up the evening for the clubblng crowd

The colour yellow lS, of course, the mam theme of the one-roomed, split level bar and the theme is reflected in the blonde wrods used throughout. Wrth large plcture Windows, a high roof and extensive use of mirrors, there if, very much an airy feeling tO Yello, guite an ac hrevement, given that

Mltchell Lane is surrounded by redevelopment Architect Rikki Croutcli has opted for a stark

minimalist style With a cosmopolitan feel Clean, unbroken surfaces combrne With uncluttered detailing for the bas:c style WillCil seems to be de r/geur for this kind of bar.

Daytime and the (‘lft'TiTaSlS is very much on the food, v-nth an ambitious menu created by tv‘iartin O’Leary, at 24 one o.‘ the youngest l-ead chefs in the city His international Inspirations come together in a dwerse selection Of nadir-riches, salads, pasta and main

Stripped-down design at Yello