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As Edinburgh’s Balmoral Hotel reopens its number one restaurant, The List asks what's in the cellars?

Jonathan Trew

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new sornrneirer and

'rrarvev rs The the retently revarrrped

nurrrher one, the hasernent restaurant

unt- :rtryer at

rn Edrrihur'pr’s prestrfuous Balmoral as ref:ttrnr;, redetoratrnd ar‘d ft‘t?‘.’i‘,?(-.’t't‘.f} the premrses wrth the < urrerxtiv ntadzsh lower (ase letters,

As we

they nave l).'(,r.f;."ll t". a tornpretery new

team fr 71.." unit: tl‘e rsttiter‘s and the than: at House ‘\.\‘§'i;.e itead (hef Jeff

Eifarid, tor'ner‘iy of the fameror: House

motel, ,‘lel lornond, frr'rnt; up the

mars, Haney has {,('2'l‘. at ‘./f)lP\ prttnrt, the trust, nr; art-tam, to toe 23o

hottle stronr; wrne lrst

Le Sept

7 Old Fishmarket Close Edinburgh

Lunch and Dinner Monday to Thursday. Friday, Saturday and Sunday open all day

telephone 0131 225 5428

If the somrneirer rs that 4:2? The trusty fluff huffer' haroor", a deep ahrdrnr; (orrterrtrx for

and thetr he's. mot-t- ...'t-s

tradrtronal pent-pt on of a who ar‘d Lrstomers toe". ér'arvey rs tlie exatt -f;;t_::r,s,fe Capper, the /ear of the true heirever, eéarsey detzrres hrs

youth.t.| and turn led'

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money Wuuiun': .zeed LU gay

thooust'rnrts great wine.’ [)avrrl l-larvey.

role as '( ssrstrnr; the tastmner to trrtd the best v.1:nturvarlahle n the sty.e that they're loolzrnn forf

If you want then he wril t(‘(().'t‘.tll(“lt(l

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110 THE LIST l9 [m 199/ 8 Jan 1998

t("ld..’l watt-s to torrrpfiemer‘t v.rr‘.at you

have (nose-n to eat,

hut 'rr'arvey rs rteener‘ to pr’trriote a greater degree of experrnterttatpn than used to he (onsdered des rahe 'l.‘:at<h:r‘.r; wzth flied was the norm,‘ explain, irarvey 'l:t.t you («0qu end up pathnr; a

wrne to a (ertarn drsh purely rn order to

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tar: dude them ta a", rnterestrn'; varrety

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Harvey has had an ertroyaom trrrre of rt \‘.‘().'i§ilt(] on hrs wrhe Lrst, so mu< it so rn fa<t that rt's easy to rrnanrne hrs passor: spreadrnr; outsrde of worlz.n<; s et‘t're frrfal rrorrtri's

lie spent it.

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protetted front the ‘,t.::':(' .r‘r; r"".(”‘ hottle sarrtplrnr; 1.7’;( s h. 'r ae overs'./l‘.ei.'rr the .'...':e totetft' t

Wishes hrs hoard at horrie

Harvey's fervour extends to the danK (ellars at the iaimoral \‘Jltt(ll have funnus drowrnt; rr‘. them 'l'hey're perfe<t,' he heams 'Et doesn't get any hetter'

If perfettronrsm rs Harvey's mrddle narrre then he doesn't equate thrs V/illl wrne ostentatrous (onsrrmptron husznessrrren re<ently ran up a hril of {13,000 at a restaurant :n london

snohhery or lhree

the food (ost


O ' 9* 2,-1.0

David Harvey pulling out another corker

{200, the hrll for the wrrre tool; up what v as left They sent the most expensrve hottle of wrne (a snrp at a rrrere four” or‘andt had: to the l;rt(hen i:e<ause rt was rudned 'too younr;’ Would ilarvey ever envrsane payrnr} {#1000 for a srnnle hottle of wrne7 'Someone Wrth an astute sense of nroney wouldn't need to pay thousands of pounds for a hottle of great vnne,’ asserts Harvey ’l'here are at sorts of .nzredrhfy .nterestrnt; wrnes avatiahae at a frattrorr of that rrtorrey

ll‘e trrtit to r;l‘.()\.'./ what you're iomtrnr; for'

.f yo-a don't l;now what you're rookrrtr; for then there rs a man workrnn from the (ellars of the

Balmoral who erl he only to happy to help

On a more neneral note, number one :s open anarn for lunrh and drnn >.' {Jrnner‘ from the a la (arte menu rs around the £50 per head marl: or you (()tll(l opt for the three (ourse ’rrrarket' {29 ‘50 At these prrres, nurrrher one rs armed squarely at the upper end of the S<ottrsh prrte range and, for most people, rs Irker to he saved for stretral ottasrons Bear rn m;nd, however, that the level of servrre and food that they are offerrnr; rs refletted rn these prrres Jeff Bland rs armrnr; for a Muhelrn star and he earned one for hrs last restaurant The lllll(fl menu at {13 9S and £16 95, for two and three (ourses respertrvely, offers an affordable way to sporl yourself rotten of an afternoon

menu at

number one, Balmoral Hotel, Princes Street, Edinburgh, 557 6727.