FOOI & IRINK
DSK needs YOU
Eclectic is an overused word but few others are as approporiate for the menu atDSK.
Words: Jonathan Trew
'Why rs there no U rn DSK?’ chortles Nrgel Shrers, chef/proprretor of the new
i restaurant rn Edrnburgh’s Broughton i Street. ’Because we need "you" to
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turn DSK rnto Dusk, Oh I know rt's a brt Odd but rt rs a talkrng pornt.’
Whether the explanatron has a whrff of fromage about rt or not, DSK certarnly has a lot of pornts to talk about. Nestlrng drscreetly rnto the space that used to be the Over The Rarnbow cafe, DSK boasts a rather strrkrng de5rgn and one of the more serrous menus rn town.
DSK rs Shrers' pet project, hrs own baby. Shrers used to be part of the team that ran both The Grarn Store and Nrcolsons rn Edrnburgh. After a number of years rn partnershrp, he deCrded that he needed to take a break
from the heat of the krtchen or, more accurately, from the front of house Berng m the fortunate posrtron of not havrng to go back to the gr‘rrrd after two weeks, Irke the rest of us, Shiers' holrday lasted for the best part of a year by whrch trrne he had decrded that he wanted to set up on hrs own 'l wanted to get back to (ookrng,' he explarns gleefrrlly 'I wanted to have complete food control Now I can do rt all, from wrrtrng the menus to rookrng the drshes.’
Havrng antrc'rpated the arrrval rn Edrnburgh of large restaurant (harns such as EstEstEst and the Hard Rock Cafe, Shrers set out to (reate a more
DSK: a sit down, evening out kinda place
specrajrsed restaurant At a 30 (overs maxrmum, 't was to be small and, rn Shrers' ‘.‘.or(:s, 'a proper restaurant where you come for an evenrng out' DSK has ,‘ust one srttr'rg an evenrng and rs a place to go and lzterally make a meal of t Srttrng around and (hattrng for a couple of hours after the dessert plates have been scraped (lean rs posrtrrvely encouraged
The DSK decor plays a large part rn thrs relaxed attrtude The bare dark floorboards and gunshrp grey walls keep everythrng rntrrnate whrle a row of candles sweeps up one wall and therr .rght rs reflected throughout the restaurant by a battery of movable
rnrrrors on the oppoSIte wall The tombrnatron of the rnrrrors and prnpornts of lrght has seen customers peerrng rnto therr wrne glasses, convrnced that the balls of lrght they see reflected rn therr wrne are rn tact pearls set rn the glass To what extent the wme ards thrs vrsual slerght of hand rs anyone's guess.
If the decor whrspers then the menus have no gualrns rn speakrng for themselves, For want of better terms, Shrers calls the food modern Brrtrsh or global fusron but says that rt's Just the sort of food that he Irkes cookrng for hrs frrends. Lucky frrends. 'BaSIcally, rt's French food but wrth all sorts of thrngs alongsrde, whether rt be Mexrcan, Thar or whatever,’ comments Shrers.
Famrlrar rngredrents such as prgeOn breast are tweaked wrth mango, chorrzo sausage and sprces, whrle scallops are baked rn therr shells wrth garlrc and black bean sauce. Fresh tuna steaks are sauteed wrth wasabr and flaked norr, yam, sweet potato and potato latkes, broccolr and lemon sauce. Roast lorn of pork comes wrth an aprrcot and almond forcemeat Three (Ourses at drnner wrll cost £20 £25.
DSK, 32c Broughton Street, Edinburgh, 478 7246.
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Authentic Russian Food, Vodkas 8: Music
(35 HENDERSON ST., TELEPHONE: Ol3l 467 7053
LEITH, EDINBURGH
11o rueusr 23 Jul—6 Aug 1998
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84 COMMERCIAL QUAY, LEITH
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