Mill thrills

From rubble at mill to a glossy new refurbishment, GAVIN'S MILL has provided food down through the ages. :s Jonathan Trew

\"v'hrle the rnterror‘ of Gavrn's Mrll rn Mrlngavre rs stylrshly modern, the restaurant rtself must have a clarm to berng one of the oldest burldrngs rn Scotland Mrlngavre rts‘elf rs actually named after the former flour mrll The name comes from the gaelrc lvlullrnn Dhardhrdh whrch translates as the mrl! of Davrd, a man who rust happened to be the krng around these parts rn the twelfth century

The mrll kept on grrndrng out flour through the (enturres tr'ttrl rt was gutted by ‘rre rn the 1950s It’s been, reburt and has had a number of uses srnce then but rts present lrfe recalls rts former role as a provrder of food for the local (omrnunrty The new owners have revamped the place and reopened rt wrth a chrc Scottrsh/French restaurant upstarrs and a cafe downstarrs

The decor rs a pleasrng mrx of old and new. as bare stone walls, wrought rron and brrght colours rub shoulders

Outside, the old single paddle

water wheel has been

restored and turns once more

in the Allander stream.

Outsrde, the old srngle paddle water wheel has bee" restored and turns once more r" the Allander stream

The (oupie hehrnd the restaurant, Graham and June Gordon, opened Gawn's Mril partly as a response to berng drsappornted so often when

they drned out else\‘.«"'r.ere They

decrded to put therr money where therr mouths were and set up therr own restaurant from scratrh Helprng them rs the genral general manager Ryan James, a man who cut hrs teeth rn Rogano and the Glasgow Brasserre

Carver: that professronai krtchens are one of the last bastrons of domrnance, rt almost comes as a surprrse that the head chef at Gavm's Mrl! rs one Karen McPherson Promrsrng that 'the drshes that wrll drstrngursh Gavrn's Mrll from the rest are a (ulmrnatron of years of wrth

Scottrsh (ookrng and a defrnrte female tourh', McPherson rs lookrng to stamp her own rdentrty on the menus

The drshes on offer range from the tradrtronai such as the roast srrlorn of beef rn a brandy and peppercorn sauce to the more experrmental suth as the


experren< e modern

Le Sept

7 Old Fishmarket Close Edinburgh

Lunch and Dinner Monday to Thursday. Friday, Saturday and Sunday open all day

telephone 0131 225 5428

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274 CANONGATE, ROYAL MILE, Eomaunsn TEL & PM: 0131 557 9583

MON - Fm 7.3DAM - 4.30954


tr roon PLANTATIO-

108 THE “ST 4 t8 Mar 1999

pan-frred breast of chrcken on a chrck- pea and chrllr puree or the goat's cheese and \Vrld mushroom ravrolr wrth a red pepper coulrs Perhaps most rntrrgurng of all rs the qurllr wrth vodka, smoked salmon and cream The desserts lrs’. contarns many an old frrend such as the warm Chocolate sponge glazed wrth rrch, dark chocolate

The wrne lrst rs extensrve wrth prrces rangrng from £12 45 to £130, twelve wrnes are avarlable by the glass,

Flour power at Gavin’s Mill

Interestrngly, the tea lrst rs nearly as extensrve and boasts erght drfferent types rncludrng assam and passron frurt,

Lunch menus start at £7.95 whrle rn the evenrng prrces start at £1245 for one c0urse and rrse to £19.95 for a three course meal Sundays see an all day menu at £1295 for two (Ourses and coffee or £14 95 for three c0urses wrth coffee or tea

Gavin's Mill, Gavin's Mill Road, Milngavie, 0141 956 2255