From the future of Scottish cooking to an international trend worth defending, a review of the reviewers and a reader’s observation,
The List looks back and forward at the close of 2000.
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THE BEST? it\ the t't‘\l;ttlt’;tltl \xhere (ittt‘tittn i\)ttltt\;t}. the ittghl} regartletl
l't‘\i;ttlt.tlt‘ltt’ anti perhap\ ttnl} \tttrltl elaw ehet ttt tlte i'l\'. \\attl\ to eat when he\ in lztlinhttrgh. ilartlen\ reeent gttttie \a}\ titat itt it lutiinhtn'gh ‘tinall} hax the \tantiartl heater |the ett}l hax erieti Hill Int". _\ntl nttne lew tltan \tek \ait‘n \ttlttnteerx that the man itt ehat‘ge l\ tlte ‘ttne tn \xateh‘ the ‘lttltlt‘t‘ tit Settttixh etmking ix till ill\ \httttltierV.
'l'he} ettttitl uni} he t‘etet't'ing tn Martin Wishart. the ehel and Im letth t‘extattt‘ant. .\\ the .\mertean\ tttight tttter. it i\ a 'nu hrainet" It» tit‘c‘ldl'c‘ \\ l\ll;tl'l lilt‘ i‘c‘\l ill Se‘ttllttlitl ill at ic‘.t\l the t'enn‘al Belt. Hi all the gtt}\ l‘\e hatl through in} kitehen.‘ \ait‘n \.t}\. ‘he\ tlte one \\ith the hext i‘lc‘litl ttl e'ttttixiltg‘ lttc‘ll\. temperament and httxinew aettmen tn
l‘t‘ \lic'k'k‘\\l ill,~
HERE TODAY, GONE TAMALE
\i‘.t\. \tttttt‘lltitt‘\ illtl\c‘ \killx are not enough anti the }ear \a\} wine next ttpemng\ ttntnt‘ttmatel} elme ratlter pt'eetptttttt\l}. \imt ntttahle ix the blue bar cafe at the l ighthnttxe itt (ilmgmx. \eteran re\tattratetn‘ \nth'en Ratlt'ttrtl ml the .\tt'tttm anti hitte in lxtlinhtn‘ght \\a\ ham\trttng h} tlela}\ he}ttntl lil\ enntrttl anti the plaee ‘|l1\l tlitln‘t eateh \‘il. lie \\a\ merheartl t'eeentl} to he
phtlmwphteal. \tghmg tltat the Hill nt’
thtee Jill-l hatl. Banks. \‘il att apparentl} tltmmetl \tte m \emngtttn
At the risk of sounding old- fashioned, you might consider anonymity an ally ofany trusted restaurant reviewer.
Rt /
Barry Shelby
Here is the 'future' of Scottish cooking
lx’natl. lutiinhtn'gh. alw did not \tlt‘\i\c‘ the }ear and Peter Bankx tiexetwetl more time to get it right.
.-\l\tt title ltt c'itwt‘ i\ FOUI’ ill tlte \ic‘it‘liati (ittilc‘l‘ic‘\ ill (il;t\gtt\\. lilti\ i\ pat'tiall} a eaxe til platttteti
tthxttleweenee a\ the \entttre til talentetl
c‘ltt‘l i.i\;t (.ttttlic‘l' li‘ilc'ikk‘kl it} .'\it'
()rganiet \\;t\ pigg} haeking the (‘entre lttr ('tnitempttt'ar} .-\rt\ itt itx tempurar} tittarterx. [1} er} htttl} will he ttttl til the \ielellan (iailet‘tex \Htlll. (itilllik‘i'. litt\\ c‘\c‘t‘. ll;t\ [it‘tnc‘tl littti \itc‘ \lltlllltl ha} e a t‘c‘\l;ttlt‘;tttl }}ith hing-
term \ttppttrt tin a \ite that allmxx her
lllc‘ llt‘t‘tlttttl itt \c‘l ltL‘t' H\\ ll littttt'\.
TREND WORTH DEFENDING .-\lthttttgh it hax heen ti} er a tleeatle in the making. the Slow Food Movement tnight linall} he gathering ttttttttc‘lllttlii. 'lhix international rexpttnw tn laxtlttttti ettltttre hegatt in ital} in l‘tlh \}hen ltalian ittttrnalixt and [not] lmet' ('at‘ltt i’etrini \pietl \ielhtnaith at'rt\ing at the Spanixh Step\ tn lx’ttme.
iktng the \nail t}\hat el\e.’t a\ ll\ \}mhttl. Sim} i‘tlt‘ki elaimx ttt ha\e (HHWH memhetx in 35 ettnntt'tex. .\\ titttttetl h} \iatthexx i'ttrt in Ili/it (lint/«Hint. i’ett'ttti \a}\1 ‘il l \xeat‘ a pair ttt' ,\rmam tmtlerpantx. the} tit» iitll heettttte it [\tl‘i ttl (ittl'it‘ i’c'll‘liti. il l till
a \hee wt ham. tt heettme\ a part ttt’
(‘at'ltt i’ett‘tnt. lhat 1\ hit} 1 \tnrr} mute ahttttt ham than tia\hittn.~
\\ hethet‘ Sim} i'tltlki can reawnahl} ehallenge the hegemttn} t‘l the Burger
FOOD & DRINK
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Ktttg\ anti l\'l5(\ til llil\ \\t»tlti l\ tlehatahle. lint \\llt‘ ean tattlt tt lt‘t tr}mg.‘ ;\\ the lli.tlitlt'\ltt \tttte\' ‘\\e are Cil\itl\k‘tl h} \peetl anti ha} e all \tteettmhetl tn the \ame lll\ltilt‘il\ \tt‘tt\: laxt ltle. \‘xlltell tll\llil‘i\ ttllt hahttx. pet‘\atle\ the ptt\ae} «it will humex anti tttt‘eex tl\ to eat laxt lt‘tlki\
. .\ia} \ttttahie \l\‘\k'\ \il gttatanteetl \c‘thtlttl [‘lc‘thtltt‘ anti \lm}. lung laxting emtt}ment pre\et'\ e lt\ hunt the ettntagttm Hi the mttlttttttle \‘.lltt ltll\l;ti\L‘ t't‘en/} lttt' elhetene},'
VOX POP: A READER MUSSELING IN ()ttr la\ttttrite ettmplamt eame lrttm tttle It}! t‘t‘atlet' \Kllt‘ ititli\ tt\ ltt laxlx hit” an inntteent enttttgh ;l\i\i&' tn an lit/tit; .ittt/ [Ht/time (/tttt/t‘ re} ten «it litiinhttrgh'x Mussel Inn. ()ttr re} ienet‘ hatl the atttlaeit} tn \} rite til the llt‘ll\k' \peeiaiit}. ltttl\\c'i\. that 'pntx til the L‘ptttl}llltttl\ \\\ L‘c‘l \ilc‘ll\ t;tl lettxl ‘lll til the little tiarlingxt are ettnketi tn the \attee ttl }tittr ehttiee.‘ \Vell iiarne} ('tttttmtiale tname eltangetl tit prtttet‘t the petiantiet phnnetl tip it! tthieet: he
reeen eti nnl} 5h.
REVIEWING THE REVIEWERS
\Vhat ahttttt the \arittm ttttttl itttn‘nm }}hn paw pintlgement (ill eating and drinking extahiithentV.’ \Ve }}i\h Charlie Fletcher tantl hi\ \t.tittng partner .-\le\antlert all the hext \\ ith the \et'iptnriting career ;t\ it ma} ll;t\lc‘lt hix tlepat'tttre ax the merl} \elt t'L‘lL‘l’c‘ltlittl lttttti c‘l‘ilic‘ littl' Netti/tutt/ tt/t Stun/tit. lint itix prtthahl} ttnlatr tn \kex}er l’leteher alttne: he i\ tllli_\ t'tiiimxing the pattern til lttt) man} re\ie\\er\ \\iltt ha} e nearl} ax mtteh to \a} ahttttt themxehex thett lt\e\ anti their timing partners ax the eatmg tint L‘\pc‘t'iettc‘c‘ il\c‘il.
.'\ lttrther ptt\ (ill L‘tiilttl'\ uhtt ilt\l\i on running Pilttlttgl‘ilpii\ (ll ttttttl \kt'tlc‘t'\. \anit} ittttl'tiztli\ttt ma} ha} e tl\ plaee httt at the til (it \ttnnthng illtl' lLHliiHllc‘ti. }ntt might ennxitler annn}mit} the all} ttl an} t'c‘\t;tttt';ttti re\ie\} er tn he li‘lhliL‘tl. RLNlLtttl'LtlelttN with a \nttpenn til \c'tl\t‘ \ltttttltl prttmitientl} pttxt liltt\L‘ hantlxttme mng \hnh nl i’ieteher. (ilm er. (\man. 'l're\}. Bl}thman. et al (ill their iatehen httiletin hnartlx and direct the \tall It» gi\e them the treatment.
Business AM merit\ a ripe pittm htr itx regttlar l’c‘\ittlll'ttttl I‘L'\lc'\}\ a t‘arit} in a tittalit} tlail} httt it\ a rntten apple to heati c‘tttlllic‘l‘\ at the Settttixh .\letha (irnttp htr their rule in eliminating httth '/'/1(' //t'rtt/t/\ mitl~ \\eel\ and the Sum/it}. Iltti‘zt/tl'x i)il'c'c‘lttt'_\ \L'c'littll littttti I'L'\ie\}\.
'THElIST 119