Independent labels on show

Next year’s trends are already nestled in their crates, hidden away until autumn.

London’s 40° fashion show gave us a sneak preview. Words: Judith Ho

he 80s are of course careering through I the catwalks: All Saints has gone for a powersuit/schoolgirl fusion. where pleated skirts are teamed with sculpted jackets. Denim continues to revel in its renaissance. although designers are going to increasingly inventive lengths to come up with ways to

There’s a real DIY feel to a lot of the coming year’s trends with uniqueness ousting uniformity.

make it fresh and contemporary. It's pleated, printed and plain distressed; and each piece is designed to look as unique and worn-in as possible.

Feel is fundamental; post-millennial minimalism is given the push as cut shares top billing with texture itself. Purity is well and truly dead. shapes are simple. but complicated


by asymmetric frills, fraying and exposed seams. Urban is going rustic, a look exemplified by Nana’s high necked. bell- sleeved blousons, giving a hip, progressive edge to 40s florals and frills.

Why not kill two birds with one rolling stone? There’s room for denim and texture on the Bowie bandwagon; as long it‘s rock it’s hot. Watch out as a glut of ripped seamed vests and T-shirts jump aboard. And sit back as Mick Jagger once again emblazons himself over a million chests.

Even labels such as Bench, Hooch and Komodo are making their lives more complicated. How low can a hooded top go? Patchwork knits, leather and fur are being stitched onto jumpers at Komodo, while Bench have hooded sweatvests with frayed arrnholes.

Knitwear gets funky and Sarah Jessica Parker gets into Smashing Grandpa’s rock star T-shirts

Acupuncture goes glam as the trainer grows up, with slender 80s rubber heels and sleek pale blue mules. Watches are heading in the opposite direction; Storm‘s classic minimalist chrome straps are being ousted. in the Chryston and Crystale range, by strings of colourful boiled sweet-like beads.

Two Scottish designers are particularly eye- catching and focus on similar themes. Based on line drawings, Suzy P provides a range of reverse seamed ‘inside out‘ dresses with deceptively simple designs drawn on. Similarly. Post’s collection superimposes line images onto T—shirts. cushions and bags.

The joy is there‘s a real DlY feel to a lot of the coming year’s trends, uniqueness is ousting the uniformity of old style urban chic. So for the hard of cash or just plain canny, get one of last year‘s T—shirts, rip the seams and get styling with your biro.


NIKI TAYLOR - . Based Glasgow Company Olanic Background I studied at the Scottish College of Textiles for four years. but i also did a year of art and design in Edinburgh. How and when did you establish your label? I worked for two years as a designer for a company in Glasgow before starting my own company. I was really a design consultant before I was a designer. What kind of clothes do you specialise in? I would say my designs are of a street-style. but I like

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to combine conceptual but wearable ideas. My ‘Stillies'. which you wear over stilettos are currently selling well in London.

Where do you get inspiration from? Everything, everywhere. everyone . . .

What designers influence you? I like so many designers it's difficult to pin down just a couple. I like designers that do something conceptual and push the boundaries.

What’s your long-term goal? To be successful and probably to sell internationally.

How can we buy your designs? Cinch in London (Soho) and from autumn/winter at Browns Focus in London. In Scotland. orders can come directly to me.

Have you considered moving to London? Yes. at various stages of my career. I had planned to move to London after graduating but got offered a job in Glasgow and took it. I love Glasgow and want to stay here for as long as possible. I have loads of friends in London so through that and the internet. etc, it makes it a lot easier.

What is your own favourite fashion item? Well, I wouldn't be without my trainers or my stilettos . . . but I have loads of second-hand bags which I love.

Advice to anyone interested in working in the fashion industry Passion. and hunners o' determination.

www. Olanic. co. uk