BAR AND CAFE
‘Soon you 7/ grow/
so take a chance/
with a couple of Kooks/
Hung up on romancing. '
—Koo/<s by David Bowie
So the name comes from a tune oft 1971's Hunky Dory LP and the owners of this new West End Glasgow bar and cafe are the same folk who run Nice ‘n‘ Sleazy across town. Location? The former premises of the late Amsterdam-inspired local favourite. Janssens. lts relaxed style has not been forsaken by Kooks. although the familiar white facade has been replaced with wood veneer frontage and some smart new maroon awnings.
The cooking at Kooks rather belies the ‘cafe' title. Think Cafe Gandolfi and you come closer to the dishes that head chef Simi Donald prepares. Although he emphasises Scottish produce — eg. catch of the day is supplied by the nearby MacCallum‘s of Troon shop — he says he didn't want to be lumbered with a palette that was limited by traditional Scottish recipes.
Instead he favours dishes such as sweet potato, apricot and chick pea tangine or Kerala chicken in a tangy yoghurt-based sauce with green bananas and mango slices. a recipe inspired by the London vegetarian restaurant Rasa. Donald's background is in vegetarian fare: he was with Grassroots when it launched its cafe. More recently he has worked in kitchens at Rococo and Blue. Lighter dishes and starters (perhaps the highlight of the menu) include tasty chunks of monkfish. which are pan-fried and served on braised cabbage and pancetta with a splash of balsamic vinegar. Puddings vary from week to week; black pepper corn ice cream with strawberries and balsamic syrup was a recent popular choice. The staff-selected wines are reasonably priced and include some organic options. as well.
Kooks serves food all day and night long (althOugh it currently closes at 6pm Monday and Tuesday). From 3—5.30pm daily. it features afternoon tea. using a variety of eccentric pots. antique creamers and some hand-knitted cosies that might remind you of your grannies.
Physically. the space is divided between a small ‘bar‘ area next to the open kitchen and the larger dining room to the side. As it has not been created in the vision of any of the local stars of interior design. both rooms rather feel like they've been here a while. Not tired, just comfortable. Pots of herb. chilli and tomato plants line the window sills; scallop shells serve as ashtrays. At night. candelabras add atmOSphere; Turkish rugs and tapestries contribute to the overall warmth here. Nothing terribly kookie 'bout that. (Barry Shelby)
I Kooks, 7355 Argyle Street. Glasgow. 0747 334 9682.
in Argyle Street
2 years (52 Issues) at £80 1 year (26 Issues) at £45
6 months (13 Issues) at £24
I l‘ I 1 Issues ree! What’s hot and what’s not?
Does your social life need a boost? Are you looking for a job, flat or lover? What does your neighbour know that you don’t?
Directory EDINBURGH Barioja “RIO” i.’ .1” I '1'}? :v I
Café and Bar
88 Lothian Road. 229 5932 Relaxed. atmospheric cafe bar. serving great value snacks. salads. specials and brilliant cappuccinos — 10am till late.
The Frances Ann Cruising the Union Canal 07957 588 252 - 07790 394 940
Lunches. Corporate Events. Evening Meals. Parties - Afloat!
The Capital Building.
13 St Andrew
Square Edinburgh. EH2 2BH (j ,_ 0131 557 4522 / 'f‘” Fax: 0131 558 3815 the.grape(a)snr.co.uk
Winner: Bar Design of the Year 2001 (The Publican). For food. beer. wine. cocktails. Champagne. Stylish.
spacious and comfortable. one
g r Forename
Food & Drink
of Edinburgh‘s great eating 8 drinking places. Bookings taken. large parties/groups welcome. Opening hours (during Festival) 1 1am—3am every day.
bar deli -shop. Good quality. healthy vegetarian. Live music evenings. Open 8am—10.30pm.
wonderful. loose leaf teas. fruit/herb tisanes. Superb day and evening menus. Open 7 days lOain—Late.
240 Canongate. Royal Mile. 557 4416
A little bit of Mexico in the heart Of the city. Buen
11 Free Issues
3 Free Issues
1 Free Issue
There’s lots going on in Edinburgh and Glasgow.,....
Made payable to The List Ltd
Subscribe to The List and be inspired
Entertainment made easy.....
Phone today or complete the form
Telephone: 0131 558 1191 Fax: 0131 557 8500 Email: firstname.lastname@example.org
Return to: Subscriptions, The List Ltd, Freepost EH2877, 14 High
cuscow All!) EDINBURGH Street, Edinburgh, EH1 CAN “3%
Or. please debit my
I enclose a cheque/postal order for E ............................ ..
ISSUE NUMBER (SWITCH ONLY) ' I
It) 9;) Aug) PIIIII THE LIST 45