SPIT OR SWALLOW

Mulled wine It's that time of year again: the weather has broken. temperatures have fallen. light levels have dimmed and our appetite for warmer. spicier booze has increased. Mulled wine season is back in season.

Always a faVOurite in winter-bitten countries. and with variations that you wouldn't believe. The basics are:

Three cups water One cup sugar Twelve cloves

Two cinnamon sticks One lemon peel

750 ml red wine

1/4 cup Brandy

Simmer three cups water with, sugar. cloves. cinnamon sticks. and lemon peel in a stainless steel pot for ten minutes. Add wine heat to a 'coffee temperature‘ (do not boil then you lose the booze). then add the brandy.

The Swedes add ginger. medium dry sherry. Angostura bitters and call it ‘Glogg'. The Germans make 'Gluhwein'. the “glowing wine'. Serve in mugs. preferably in the worst weather imaginable. which makes it perfect for our climate.

There is no defining recipe; just include cinnamon. cloves. some kind of citrus fruit (flesh or peel. or both). red wine (obvious: cheaper the better.

more expensive tannic wines react strangely to the recipe). Experiment. Add lots of spice. fruit and alcohol. and you can‘t really go wrong. But just serve it warm. The introduction of brandy is a stroke of genius. just don't use your finest Cognac: you can usually find a full bottle of 5:10 generic ‘Napoleon' brandy Quite easily. But remember. you can make about three years’ worth of warm festive booze with that very bottle.

The reSult is the same. If the heart really did have cockles. they really w0uld be warmed. Roll on Christmas. (Gordon Haggarty)

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