Food & Drink
Eat out, drink up
PREVIEW
OLOROSO
33 Castle Street, Edinburgh, 0131 226 7614
Side dishes
An extra helping of news . . .
HOT ON THE HEELS OF The List’s Bar Guide comes an updated edition of Rudolph Kenna’s Glasgow Pub Companion. Published by Angel Share (an imprint of Neil Wilson), the160- page guide now features colour photography of most of the ZOO-plus bars and pubs across the city about which Kenna writes. Since the previous edition in 1996, there have been numerous changes and Kenna has caught most. Alas, as he acknowledges in his intro, the scene is in such flux that some the venues that he wrote about for this book are already consigned to history’s bin.
IN AN EFFORT TO ELEVATE the national drink. the Scotch Whisky Association is promoting several whisky
The much-anticipated launch for this new Edinburgh venture from James Sankey and Tony Singh took place just before Christmas. None too soon for fans of Sankey, former general manager and sommelier at Atrium and blue bar café, and Singh, ex-ITV chef of the year and one-time cook at the Balmoral Hotel and Martins Restaurant.
Oloroso occupies a top floor at the intersection of Castle and George Streets, from which lofty heights the custom should find themselves feeling in a rather privileged position.
Designed by Richard Murphy Architects, who have been responsible for the Fruitmarket Gallery and Dundee Contemporary Arts development, the bar and restaurant offers clean, modern design. Simple rather than minimal is Sankey’s take on the look. It has a 70-seat restaurant (smoke-free) and
64-seat lounge/bar, as well as a cocktail recipes such as Bitter
terrace that runs the length of the g 'n' Twisted (whisky. lemon
restaurant along George Street. . juice. bitters. and ginger ale).
From various vantage points, you ‘lt‘s about making Scotch
can see north towards the Forth or High liVinQ. "VG ("Shes at a time accessible. appealing and fun.'
back towards Arthur’s Seat. says Karen Prentice. ‘Scotch Singh, slightly frustrated by various bureaucratic delays which reflect the freshness of ingredients that he desires. served in a pub can
through 2001 (the original opening date was to be pre- Dishes to expect include roast grey mullet with chorizo, sometlmes seem a “me
Festival), says he and his cooks had little choice but to rocket, sautéed new potatoes and red-wine butter; roast forlorn. perhaps we are a tad
‘hit the ground running’ upon opening 21 December. salsify with tomato gnocchi and curry cream; and seared too precious about our
Having been without a kitchen for some time, he was scallops with sweet pea masala. The separate bar menu national drink; The
excited to be back in one - designed no less to his specs. offers ‘snacks’ such as traditional north Indian griddle concoctions were devised by From a huge list of prospective dishes, Singh honed the bread and shitake mushrooms; cumin and tomato masala Mauro penegnnnem of Bar 399
primary restaurant menu to five starters, five mains and pork ribs as well as Vuhrea’s Punjabi meat balls. in the Scotsman Hotel. Visit
five desserts. But the selections are planned to change Oloroso means aromatic in Spanish. It is also the name wwwscotchwhiskyorguk or
frequently, possibly every other day depending on what is given to matured sherries - often those with a higher ca” 0207 529 4384 for more
fresh and in season, he says. The difficulty is balancing alcohol content. Although not yet aged, many expect information.
consistency (which comes from cooking the same Sankey’s and Singh’s restaurant to provide a parallel THE OWNERS OF THE
recipes day after day) against introducing new meals grown-up kick. (Barry Shelby) Royal Mneis off the Wall
"“Mm-T’m ‘ “"__—_-’“‘ " "‘""‘*““"—"'“’ Restaurant have converted NEW RESTAURANT their former premises on
CHINA CHINA South College Street, , ~HINA Repetition is to restaurants what bad
vegetarian restaurant.
Duns are to hairdressers. In Edinburgh. a Recent menus _ two_ restaurant isn't a restaurant unless it course lunch £9.59 or repeats on you. So as well as Est Est Est dinner £12.95 _ include and Wok Wok. the capital's now got braised fennel with puy China Chma'. lentil jus and confit
Housed in long-vacant premises at the potatoes as we" as too of Leith Walk. and completing a vegetable strudeI with foodie strip comprismg four Italians. three celeriac_potato mash and lndians. one French and two chip shops roast garlic dressing. all within two blocks. China China offers the novelty of buffet dining. Much the ' «:I-‘é—:~‘:~'rr—--:« WALKABOUT' THE CHAIN OF
way you get yOur hotel breakfasts these AUStral'an meme Super'pUbsi days. you fmd a tame. request your is coming to Glasgow later this drinks. then help yourself to the buffet month W'm room for LOGO selection. And y0u can help yourself to . dr'nkers and d'ners' the
as much as you like. as often as you like. Double heipings, buffet style Venture at Rem'e'd and Refrew
."
No doubt the purists would have Streets '” the ground floor Of something to say about the odd of potato wedges for good measure. lunch buffet (pre-Spm) is a mere £4.99. the new UCG C'nema W'” combinations you end up With. When The advantages are clear. If you're in a You c0uldn't call it gourmet dining. you feature a C3 menu for mQSt Of laced With b0iled rice. fried rice and three hurry, you can be in and out in no time |f miss that stra.gm-from_me_wok Intensity the daY- some 26 t63'9V'5'On types of noodles. the greatest temptation you‘re with Chlidl'en' they can have but it's friendly, stylish and just as “Hing screens are part of the plan.
:8 to take a spoonful of each. And that's exactly the food they want (under fives as you want it to be. (Mark Fisher) as '8 a Separate n'gm C'Ub before you've smothered them with all eat free. older children are half price). I 70 Antigua Street, Edinburgh, 0737 UpSta'rS and Jong'eurs the main dishes you fancy. Plus a couple And if you're counting the pennies. a 556 9797 Comedy C'Ub '” the basement'
.:—-t 7' .Jati‘ ’ (102 THE LIST 93