Food & Drink

Sweet success

Busy start for closed Encounter. Words: Donald Reid

on l’etit Boudin (or 'my little pudding‘) might sound cute. or eyen just a little rude.

occur. This cosy new neighbourhmrd bistro specialises in modern lirench cooking where the atmosphere and decor are neat as well as relaxed. while prices (between £8 and {I2 for mains) are not particularly steep. liood is contemporary but comforting.

White linen and tasteful tableware give the place a respectable air as glimpses of the herbs in a front window box (not to mention a completely no-smoking policy) giye it a sense of freshness and calm.

The site is the former Beef lincounter and co-owner

.\'eil ()‘Br'ien says the location is just what he and partner lan Riley where looking for. Both haye up- market cooking backgrounds and they worked together most recently at the capital's (‘afc Mediterraneo.

With about space for 40 coyers. ()‘Br‘ien says the limited seating allows them to maintain quality. The district‘s residents haye so far responded positiyely. Marketing has been minimal and O‘Brien estimates

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Scots on


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mated by Phillip urn.

were devastated by disease and irrar~ r, rLc-carrit; a 'art: cornrnotrn

But this is Iloly (‘ornerz on the very cusp of Morningside where. of course. such thoughts neyer

lire subject of whisky (reiterates Scots on Scotch thankfully (3f3illl€3.'.'f; Zr‘t:

‘.‘."l'!itlttj on lllt: national (lr'r‘k. l.’l(l(‘;t;(2. it"s; cal-act ori ct essays and poet",

highiantl chefs; lrrstorrcaély were ll‘Iil":

that the trade in their first month has been 90‘; local or

within a the mintrte walk.

()n the menu which changes fortnightly A ‘petit plates’ include things such as baby botrdin blanc (the boudins were ncyer going to be far away) seryed with

buttered cabbage and pear as well as a roast red pepper

and marscopone roulade.

‘(irand plates’ include dishes such as beef oliyes using 'l‘otrlouse sausages. seryed with gnocchi in a flayoursome oregano and tornan grayy or a seafood r‘agotrt with heaps of tasty fish. scallops and prawns. 'I’here's also chicken. baked cod. and stuffed roast

butternut on a short but thorough line—up of

unelaborate. unfussy and satisfying dishes.

l‘or dessert expect a yanilla creme brulcc. for

example. or a summer pudding. So maybe not the place for a daring assignation or to clinch a big money deal. btrt quite likely a place you‘d go on Tuesday night becatrse it’s easy. it’s friendly and it‘s there. I for; Pet/t Horror/t. if) (Joli/tron Road. [to/rrl)i/rg/i. () Iii l 45).” 5-5-1553, is open to" ’u/‘tx'i FOO/P 1_’..’)‘(>;>rr;r from luesrn‘n to

Sunday and for (I'm/re! til-15) .’(l.(>‘(),')rnr r'-.//o/t<r;'t'.' ft) .‘§:.'/:<;}'r‘..

SCOTS ON SCOTCH: THE BOOK OF WHISKY Phillip Hills ed Mainstream 579$): .00

3!'t()l-1;- backs; Wat‘- otr‘er st: '13:; ::<>"‘:: new. 0' so It ‘.'.'<>.r'(r t;-Z:~L:~"‘,

str'r'. r‘itfl‘ifarrt‘, trial tot: alto" rim-141:; rite rrtircii <>l tit-:1-

Di. .'.,'lttf E)f)\‘/\/"(1f)

George Rosie. l)a\.':(l Hatches. Nc'ma" MacCagr. than lvtacl )ia'irizo a'rtr llirtr: \“Jrsliart '5; express}; (l(3$$ltl.'l(,’(l to fi(:l)1.ltl< "af'ttn t'rar‘ l-f: "force "‘(t’l‘, it? t"-:3 l“..".i"t; somatic-(ling <).rr l)(}l()‘.(}tl t‘.‘.'.'-:.-av«.s I'rt; tartar‘ tat at: I t;'.<,~'-::<;'.j.rtt2:r i't‘agie", frequently associated with Scott; lttl. '.'.'.'nsi<, arr/r t5; liftlfllti'. :;r‘.

Youa‘c-r‘ot §§()il‘{l{Olilltl53i(Ir<l;'(;(l..(1lf)f‘{tlltlt]l():3f3‘, prrctogiraril‘s ant". this; fit?‘.'.' c-tntcri. llrc- tiraplxcs are actually (rote (ireatrltrt. [Slit T‘tt: chapters r>ltc-' an f‘lt)"lll;i7.:‘.’(;-. 'l“.‘(?l‘, l(:{t(I. If the tent:-

is occas onaliy' scholarly. Scots or: Scots/i 3; often engaging}. It is not bashful Ill admitting; that

Rely To trunk x'xrric t'rari ‘.'.'tir:;'r\‘,'. W'rritz (l stilleil for l‘..r‘.(irc-:is

of years. scotclt's big l)l'(féll\lllltitltll‘ ca'rtc (nth, in the .atc~ ‘Eltri century ‘.'.'lr(}l‘ l .'(‘:ll(i."‘.1lt(E\.{l!(lf3

.. Arxi so lltt} use of \.'.'l‘ sky.

‘l tox'r scotch (llf;llil(:l'f; won such a slice of thel rigiish market is: a story ill tseilf ‘.‘.'lll(?f3 (iconic Rosie. ‘ll‘e‘, int Britain ‘.'.’|’.l‘. a'r

'igerirorrs rrtarkctir‘sg campaign that gradually transformed scotch It‘l(; a natural: arul ting-rt a mom :n'nk. lllt) press was; blit/etr ‘.'.'.t"r

advertisernentt; depicting tolls anti lll(:|l littiltif; sinking; or; ssc-s; of f;t:(;-l<:l‘ 'or scotch and fititlétv. l)t:‘.'.'ar't; t:lt}(Il(}(l on the South Bank

'2' the lirarnes; a 'Ttltlt,‘ electric Highlander unlitosc kill seemed to s;\.'.'a. as; lit: 5;.ppcrr or‘ his glass (it .'.'li.:;l\'$._ lire brilliant t§()llli(‘, artist

loin Bros/tit: ‘.'/£‘rf; hirer: to create the lli()lt(;(:l(3(l gent Jolnrrnt; \r"./alkci

‘3'.if;‘.£l."il:(I. lll]t;.".lt)tlf; arvl cllectw’e safes (ll'i‘.’(:f3 ir‘. lllt: history of Brian:

"train 189‘.) (llltl :;t.|| groan; :;trt>n<_;'r. It was one the most

':::'!rrr‘.t;rct:.' Harry Sheila,

Side dishes

An extra helping of news . . .

I METROPOLITAN IS A NEW cocktail bar and restaurant in the Merchant Square development off Candleriggs, Glasgow. Run by the same people who own 78 St Vincent, Metropolitan has space for some 270 diners in the first floor dining room and interior courtyard. Bar staff are said to be fully trained on how to mix drinks, while the menu emphasises grilled foods.

I IN EDINBURGH'S NEW TOWN. Saber del Mar restaurant has just opened on l-lanover Street. Below the tapas bar El Saber. which launched a fortnight earlier. Saber del Mar features a menu of sea food done with a Mediterranean twist such as mussels with (:horrzo. roasted sea bass wrth black olives. Food in the basement restaurant iS served daily from noon—3pm (two courses for $29.95; and

5.30—1 1pm. The ground tIOOr bar. in the space once OCCUpled by Littlejohn's. sen/es food from noon to ttprn. Call 0131 226 6300.

I THAISANUK RESTAURANT in Marchmont, Edinburgh, hopes to be back in business during the festival after a moronic late night arson attack a few weeks ago. Sadly much of the bespoke design and lighting effects in the dining room are not replaceable. One of the key creators, an Edinburgh art school grad, has returned to Thailand. Nevertheless, local artists and artisans have been consulted on how best to concoct a design that’s at least sympathetic to the original. For updates on its reopening log on to

I AWARDS. AWARDS. AWARDS. lhere haye been a rash of them With Rogue in Edinburgh named by Theme maganne as best restaurant ootsmle of London. 'lempus bar cafe at Glasgow‘s CCA tapped as Bacardi Limon most stylish Scottish bar. Far Pavilions ll‘. Edinburgh received a silyer medal for food by readers of the Rea/ Curry Restaurant (Stride, while Glasgow won the Kingfisher UK corn, capital of the year award.



A w estaurant a bar opening in

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