TELEVISION FOREVER SUMMER Channel 4. Thu 5 Sep. 8.30pm

Let me confess: l'rn not a Nigella Lawson fan. I appreciate the appeal she has for many. but one too many times I‘ve seen her cock her head back to sample a cookery creation. No normal person does that. Sexy? My schadenfreude was pronounced this year when images of the savoury seductress showed her cosseted in some sort of see-through sock.

Lawson's selling something other than food. Fine by me. Honestly. I'm neither a prude nor a puritan when it comes to cooking especially the televised type. Give me Floyd rather than Fanny any day: that's entertainment. Advance publicity for this new series noted the inspiration of the renowned Eli7abeth David. who first introduced Britain to Med influences in the 50s. In fact the writing of the libidinous Elizabeth had an erotic element. as well.

Forever Summer's intentions are obvious. if not exactly honourable. ‘Summer is about colour . . . the colour of happiness.‘ Lawson purrs in the first of eight episodes. But there is. gratefully. not too much of this introductory malarkey and she cuts to the chase: 'Happiness Soup‘ with courgettes. turmeric and lemon the highlighted ingredient of this show.

A middle segment lat least on my preview tape) serves up dishes eg lemon salsa with sardines with no voice-over. narration or explanation. Just lots of gorgeous visuals. And why not? If yOu're actually interested in the recipes. buy the bloody book.

Luckily, however. after that interlude Lawson returns to whip up a lemon-drop cocktail. ‘I want as much lemon as i can get.‘ she declares. That about says it all. I'm only surprised sausage wasn't the featured ingredient. (Barry Shelby)

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12' Set: THE LIST 113