Eat out, drink up
The Italian job
Baby, it’s getting cold outside so we decided to sample a bit of fare from the sunny southern ‘boot’ of Europe. Words: Barry Shelby
1) Poggio Lamentano
2) Caponate Di Melenzane 3) Criﬂel Loch Arthur
4) Provolone (dolce) mini provoloettino 5) Provolone (piccanti) 6) Calabria Olives 7) Pastone with ricotta and sausage
8) Carcliofi All Romana
9) Peppers with tuna
10) Olive Di Gaeta 11) Fonteluna lontlitune style
it the [8. the recent (‘oltrrnhux l)a_\ ll} ()ctoher‘l has hecome a comenient date to celebrate its Italian communities. this cottntr'} also has good reason to note the gifts of Scots Italians. \xhether' in literature r'l'rocchi l. art tl’aolol/i/ Morr'occo/l)emar‘co). acting tNardini/(‘apaldi l. r'ace dr'i\ ing tt'r‘anchilti l. or llill\lc‘ tSpiler'i r.
But the realm of food may he where their slt‘ollgexl contr'ihutionx corrtintre to he made. whether in the fish and chip
shop. ice creamery ot‘. increasingly. the delicatessen. Tao of The I.r'\r\ laxour'ite delis are lidinhurgh‘x \'a|\ona & ¢ ‘ ‘,
('r'olla and (ilaxgouk (iat'lic. Both are managed toda} h) \L'L‘tlltd and third generation it;ttl‘.tll\. the ('ontini and 3 . i
liuxehi families respectiver uho trawl frequently hack to the continent to we r'elatixex and to ltnd real Italian I _ w
germ: whether” hullan rrroI/ar‘ella. exquisite oli\e\. artixanal “lites ot' e\en norld-renonned mineral \xater‘. 7..-
Both shops can") a particular fondness for southern Ital). \\ here the produce is fresh and the cooking light. .9. 0 With thanks to them. our team of tasters r'ecentl} sampled old) a ten of mam food stuffs off their -.
\hchc\ and cold cztws.
Gorgonzola dolce argento
A Mg seller at W“). this rs made from pasteurrsed cog-.3; rnrlk in the northern region of lornbarrh Yummy, It's big and brash but oddh stylish and unrgue, Really hardcore. and its nrr e when rt goes all runny
Pecorino sirbone crotense
cheeses from southern Italy are more kely to be made
sheen}; rnrlk than ct (‘rarlrc's (Erot’anna t'useb says ‘real' pecorrno rs Sardrnrarr. s‘r‘ould be aged rn canes and emerge wrth greenish :rkrr‘ .‘lazlrrrg ‘rom Calabria a‘. the tor: of Italy's boot. thrs or‘e rs not ; s scan. as ttooks and
aloesh't taste as strong as tsrriells.
this cheese comes from He (Jar'rpanra region. It's fairly dry and not over;rota/enneg flavoured - probably best for using rn a panrnr. llas ourte a smooth. rf powdery. texture
Provolone (dolce) mini provoloettino Ar‘other trom near Naples: a creamy; softer and generallt,
more pleasant texture than the prccantr version, Perfect rn
a sandx'rrch with some thrnlt sliced mortadella.
Criffel Loch Arthur
()K. we're cheatrng here but Valwna 8. Crolla has come tip wrth a ringer trom these Dunrfrres-based cheesernakers. Made from unpasteurrsed cow‘s milk. ()rrffel rs cream; and absoluter gorgeous. It has almost an artrchoke fla\our to rt. Wouldn't r.‘.'ant to leaxe rt out for two long. though.
Mozzarella Di Bufalo
Campanra rs the home where the brrf‘alo roam. this xersron s smoked and therefore perhaps more of an acquired taste. Really gurte different from néand. ‘.‘.'t‘.|t(? rno.‘.'are|las the perfect challe'rge tor ant cheese
Fonteluna fontlitune style
Made from a Valvona 8. Crolla tamrrx. recipe. this sausage used to hang from the ratters in the shop's ear't dats before. as Mary Contrnr says. the heattr: and safety
err verts proftered therr 'deadenrng adxrce'. It ofte's a rea‘ slow burn. gurte sweet at first \'.r‘tti a tree. aftertaste. Would be perfect diced and cooked :r‘. a pasta or gust '.'.'olted dot'rn ‘.'.‘:th a piece of rhrld cheese
Venicciana Picante Salame A peppery snuw wee beggar. Ourte complex ayers.
Olive Di Gaeta
these black Otl‘AtS from Carr‘panra ha\ e a \. en. meaty tla\our. as v.el| as a texture that’s much sotte' than strperrrrarket olrxes exer hate. Lonely.
Calabria Olives (been :r.'.'.t"; s'. l a ‘ennel and ""lt' 'r‘arrnadr-. the. are 'tr.‘r.",‘ salty. and hat a" almost t':tr.rs aft-"ﬁrst... A t>:t flr:slr., at; ‘tt‘efrr' almost two ~,r>.r"t; t: to»
Caponate Di Melenzane the only traded product rn
cur santple. thrs eggrziant antrpasto would make an :deal Instant topping for bruschetta and nrx/a or eate'r on Its own with ‘resh Ital;an bread. the accornpantrng vegetables and olr‘.e:: have held their shape well.
(‘rarlrc makes these using a recipe from
Barr rn f’uglra or: |ta|1ﬁs Adrratrc coast. A perfect
.I‘ ' :.
BETTER snap AROUND '
If Valvona 8. Crolla is the daddy of the Italian delis, then most of the others, Garlic included, are the healthy nieces and nephews - small shops with limited resources. if generous hearts. Here are a few others worth finding across Scotland. I Gourmet Pasta
54-50 fr/lornrngsrde Road. Fdrnbtrrglr. (271i? (147 4750 tVow pasta 0' "reals that you urn have preparrxr rr: your own drsh: tf‘e perfect drnner party ruse. Plus cheeses and cum! treat.
I Pietro’s Delicatessen
1071 Tollcross Road. Glasgow. 0111‘. 778 9966. A tiny place With a trrr‘rtcd selexztron mt rts own Italian pork sausage stands out.
combination of trsl“; saltrness and smaet fruit, tang. Both flavours are nee. .".t(?ltf§(} but don't :lroxurr eac“ other out, Sensatronai. Fantastx,
Carcliofi All Romana Another (tarlrc p'odur;t: 'r‘arrnate’l artrrt‘ckes from the l a/o regro" .‘.“-1<:" "axe a gov: ':,'.."','.
exer .'.’l‘.er.'vt.>rst ...,.rrd.;m ..-.:l s-.-a~ . ta' :
No ltalrar‘ rriea: rs rior' rxete Thea: /i .4- or ' < ext': I Celino’s
‘. rgr" pan-at,“ .t'.ar‘al. (.- UXCKrf‘rlJr‘. a'. 'r/a‘r'm'yz I“. Upwr f, 622 Alexandra Parade, Glasgow. (rt/ll 5;)!" nraduced and Lottett :2'. ‘ft‘e art. 1;: M “gt‘ae' z". :' 0523. The Dflde 0’ DCth'StOUH- ""3 tattll‘r’ﬂl” tast‘an. /. ﬁrst we: the; it... at \_/;«,(; pr, “we: / delicatessenandcatehas the full range of Scotland as a Potts" widow-“,- lls i, "a: a r bread meats- Cheeses- (W 900‘“; 3"“ (1‘7‘53‘1‘5 mar rent .r t: r r s r if . w’w ): u" ' :9': IR°b°n "enlies
)r .n u mud r at“ r . 1 Atholl Street. Dunkeld. Perthshrre. 08/15 0:33
1820. This shop dates back to the 18th century and now stocks 2O drfferent cured meats. Ber and Nannrnr coffee. beer and Wine. For more rnformatron on Ira/ran (re/rs. get The US! Bet and Good Food DrrectOry to Scotland. £4.95 at most book sellers.
°Valvona & Crolla, 19 Elm Row, Edinburgh, 0131 556 6066; www.valvonacrolla.com OGarlic, 793 Shettleston Road, Glasgow, 0141 763 0399
114 THE LIST .-‘ c.’