EAT&DR|NK
Culture Cluster
Glasgow’s most diverse dining neighbourhood is the Merchant City, where you can find all styles and nationalities of cuisine within a ten minute walk of the heart of town. Here are some of our favourites.
Babbity Bowster SCOTTISH/BAR & PUB F000
10 18 Blacklriars Street
(ll/ll 557150555)
wwwliabbitycoin
Mon Sun noon 10pm [bar Open: Mon Sat llainrmirlnight; Sun 19.30pm midnight].
Recently tipped by Michelin liming ()ur in I’ll/M guide as one of the best in Britain. Babbity Btny'le‘l“s (‘aledonian roots are evident both in the menu and the surroundings. I)own-to—earth clientele gather to enjoy good beer. excellent wines. and a menu that steers refreshingly clear from the standard bar pi/./.a/pasta combination. Instead. a selection of national favourites from stovies. (‘ullen skink and haggis congregate in the ‘Scotch corner' of the menu. while the ‘I‘rench Quartet" offers Toulouse sausage or croque monsieur. among others. On Saturdays the venue lives up to its name with a Scottish folk music session from 3pm. A small number of overnight rooms are available upstairs and in line weather the beer garden is welcoming
Dakhin
INDIAN
89 Candlenggs. 0141 553 2585 Mon-Sun noon—2.30pm: 0—10pm. Opened in 2004 by the same folk who run the nearby I)habba. Dakhin (above Bar 9| ) offers the same friendly but modern approach to Indian dining. But while Dhabba focuses on noth Indian cuisine. here the emphasis is on southern Indian specialities. liin dishes. some seriously spicy concoctions and the promise of that southern sub-continental treat: the dosa. They come in a variety of styles and are definitely well worth trying. Here at Dakhin they imported special kit especially to mill the rice needed to create the Indian crepe in the authentic way. Prices are steeper than the norm for curry houses. but Dakhin raises its game to create added value.
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Café Mao
ASIAN
84 Brunswick Street
0141 56/1 5161 www.cafemao.eom
Mon—Sun noon—1 1pm.
While other (ilasgow eateries in this price bracket struggle to lure punters in on a Monday night. it‘s best to phone ahead to Mao and secure a table. Young and old. big groups and lirst dates all rub shoulders as they are taken on a delectable culinary tour of South Iiast Asia at this perennial List favourite. The delivery of Asian- fusion food to a Iiuropean palate can often be a hit and miss affair. but at (‘afe Mao they keep it simple and it works. The combination of flavours. spices and fresh ingredients are consistently bang on. Add to this the stylish surroundings and the energy of the staff and it's a hard
job to find better value for money.
Mono
VEGETARIAN
12 Kings COurt. King Street.
0141 55a 2400 wwwgomonoeom
Mon—Sun noon—10pm [bar open: Mon—Thu noon—midnight: Fri Sat noon—18nd.
Pedants will insist Mono is not in the Merchant City. but it belongs spiritually to the neighbouring quarter on the other side of the Tron. This is not simply a vegan restaurant (Scotland‘s only one)
Smith’s of Glasgow FRENCH/SCOTTISH 109 Candleriggs, 0141 552 6539
Mon Ham—5.30pm; Tue—Sat Ham—10pm. Closed Sun.
Former catering lecturer turned master chef Michael Smith has toiled long and hard to make his mark on the Merchant City trade and this year his star is rising. Smiths of Glasgow has the air of a busy Parisian bistro — elegant yet rustic with wooden furniture. white tablecloths and an open kitchen. The menu changes regularly and Smith is always alert to seasonal and sundry ingredients which are given due attention on the specials board. Plump. freshly caught king scallops might be lightly seared and served in a red pepper reduction with smoky bacon. A simple lamb stew is brightened with sharp rosemary and served with a mustard flavoured mash.
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but also a bar. a record outlet (called Monorail). an in-house deli/Fair Trade shop and a library full of right-on books. Mono has organic drinks and brews some of its own ales. too. The service is never slick and sometimes just a bit slack. but always casual and friendly.
Café 8. Bar Gandolfi SCOTTISH BISTRO 64 Albion Street. 0141 552 6813 www.cafegandolfi.com Mon—Sat 9am—1 1.30pm: Sun noon—1 1.30pm [bar open: Mon «Sat 1 1am—midnight; Sun noon—midnight]. (iandolti is a bona Iide (ilasgow institution. having just celebrated its 251h anniversary. For a quarter of a century. it has maintained high standards. Using line ingredients in simple dishes. Light meals can serve as generous starters. whether a delicate smoked trout pate with crunchy oatcakes. a hunk of creamy goat's cheese on a walnut and olive salad. or Stornoway puddings (of both the black and white variety). Staple mains include an oaty haggis. smooth neeps and fluffy tatties — as well D 18 Nox—Q Dec 2004 THE LIST 1 19