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EAT&DR|NK

Talkin' ‘bout a revolution?

The new sprawling Sauchiehall Street bar and restaurant, STAVKA, makes Jay Richardson long for the comforts of the Cold War.

akc no mistake. Stavka. the new Soviet—themed style har on Sauchiehall Street. is ('old War nostalgic. 'I'lic smiling visagcs ol' (iorhachev and Reagan hcam henignly on those sitting at the long tahles in the central hcer hall vvith its unique .-\rmitagc Shanks porcelain sink har. Ahove Lenin‘s image. l).ls play thumping heats. At Stavka. there‘s vodka to burn. yet l‘ood shortages in the kitchen. It‘s a schlocktoherl‘est ol Iiast meets West: the Rocky ll' ol har/ restaurants.

A joint venture between (‘l’l. Iintertainment and the Russian hrevver. Baltika. Stavka is an abbreviation l‘or “stakva glilvnogo komandovania‘ which apparently

means ‘general headquarters‘ ol~

imperial Russian and Soviet armed forces. Spread out across three liloors‘. the venue certainly encourages exploration. :\t street level. there‘s a striking. art deco- int'luenced har. combining black.

red and stridently conlident leather

furnishings. The light and crisp Baltika lager (No 3) is eminently drinkable. though the thick. hroyvn glop ol‘ Baltik'a porter (No ()l is a taste hest acquired.

Food is served doyvnstairs. but note the 1930s Soviet mural \vhile descending. It‘s translated as ‘\\'e smite the lazy yvorkers‘ and one

can only hope that this is genuine company policy. Due to some misdirection hy har stall. a booking is not secured in the restaurant. :\ls’.'\ the Imperial Rooms. amid its lush. velvet upholstery. Here. in curved. intimate hooths. the more l'ortunate sip cocktails. I.ikc 'I‘sar's hastards. they can sup on black caviar alas one oi several dislles not served to the trestle tahles in the adjacent indoor courtyard ctun heer hall.

IT'S A SCHLOCKTOBER FEST OF EAST MEETS WEST

MN!!! ‘2‘.

a"!

Irrespective ol' the abbreviated l‘ood selection outwith the Imperial

Rooms. there are .still plenty ol

pastas and pi//as (named alter l‘ormer presidents). alongside Inot‘e ostensihly Rtissian tare such as chicken in cranherry vodka sauce or vegetable stroganol‘l'. l5or starters. the ten options on the ‘Is'okot menu‘. including pan—tried mushrooms. clams and spicy Rtlssian sausage. seem a good place to start. I’lus. they‘re a bargain at live l'or L'It). 'l‘onight. hovy ever. the Yeltsin hurger is sold out. :\ Romanov salad. parsimonious with the chicken. is a disapjmintment. yyhile the poinidory Rlisski tagliatellc is reasonable. it a tad limp. .»\nd yvhcn diners have to navigate a blinding searchlight (projecting the Baltika logo onto the yvallsl to secure plates. and later. cutlery. Stavka begins to liccl a little too authentically communist.

()n the top lloor. l‘ortunatcly. the harer lit 'I'sars Vodka IIotlse ol‘l‘crs a cool hlack sheen of mirrors and drapes in which to drink and reflect upon this strangely hrash clash ol cultures.

Stavka, 373-377 Sauchiehall Street, Glasgow, 0141 333 3940. Open Ham-midnight with food generally served noon-10pm.

&

BOTANIC HOUSE HOTEL BAR/BRASSERIE

27 Inverleith Row. Edinburgh. 0141 552 2563

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'/ " Lia, ’/ THE LIST 123