Expogng
EAT IT THIS FORTNIGHT
the myths neworole aboth plat/I09 Berlin game PAGE 113 PAGE 115
gut;
Fish fulfilment
Two new bars dedicated to a staple of east Asia have Barry Shelby turning Japanese.
RESTAURANT FACTS HERE Sushiya, 19 Dalry Road, Edinburgh 0131 313 3222, £9.95 for a platter of nigiri, maki and three slices of salmon sashimi. Misc, 57 West Regent Street, Glasgow
0141 332 3007, £7.95 for a Fish Set, comprising nigiri, mixed maki and inside out rolls.
n Japan. the sushi hai‘ is rough!) eonipai'ahle to the Iti'itish
pith or ilie l't'eneli eal'e; reasonahl} uhiiiiiitoiis and part ol
the national identit}. Sushi is not new to Seotland. hut t\\ii nest sushi liars lia\e iiiiprmed the pi'ospeets loi tans ol the Japanese speeialit}.
Sushi}a is the name ol' the iie\s Sushi hat in Mali) ls’oad. Izdiiihui‘gli. near II:t}lllttt'Isel Station. .\t the liaek ol the tin} shop—si/e spaee. laeiiig haels towards the street. a iiiaii dressed iii \tliite stands plaeidI} \\ itli a sharpened knil’e heliind a glass eoiiiitei' \iith plates ol' neatl} ai'i'a_\ ed eliuiiks ol lish. sosa eake and other sushi ingredients.
.'\l'tllltld the rooni. a eouiiter ol' tiinher runs. \sith plaee settings ol' hlaek Iaeiiiiered eliopstieks on eeraniie rests set out iinil'oriiil} iii troni ol' hiin stools. 'I‘hi‘ee tahles. iiieludiiig one i'iglit at the sushi eliel'K station. eoiiipleie the tlll‘litsltlttg\.
'l'lie plaee t'eels like it helongs iii a 'lokio sithiirli. .\ laptop eoiiiputei' stuek iii a euhh} hole is e\en tuned to a tele\ision
station airing one ol‘ those odd I ‘SUSHIYA IS puheseent—looking women in
lime green hilsinis jump into
tuhs ol' isater \tliile niale hosts and a studio aiidieiiee houl at
the hilarit} ol~ their apparent translation.
Ilo\\ e\ er indeeipherahle. the A prograninie does add ' autheiitieit} to the \enue. It} the trout door and iii eontrast to
In eonti‘ast. Him in (ilasgou. \shieh opened about the same time as Suslii}a. oeeupies a more ea\ernous spaee. Home to a ten hars pi'e\iousl_\ iineliiding Maelaehlans atid the Duke ol NY). the \Ve\t Regent Street \lte Ita\ it \[iitetiiiis seating area near the tront \\ll1dti\\ s. eoinplenieiited with some more l‘rotn the hat.
The deeor emphasises inuted hues \siih a leis splashes ol Pl'llttitl') eolours as aeeents. Here. too. sonie Japanese \isuals tsans audioi are prm ided h} a liquid sereen inounted high on one u all: on a reeeni \isit some rather eliees} exeerpts lroin iii a man eating the head oil a Iis e squid. Yiiin.
.'\t Sll\Ill_\it. £9.95 produees a platter ol’ niosil} nigiri as \\ ell as a eouple ol' maki with eriineh} eiieuinher eores and three sliees ot‘ salinon sashinii. presented elegantl). to emphasise that lish is just one option \sitli sushi. the nigiri seleetion oinelette tianiagoi. apparently a good test ol~ the lsitehen. Another has the \\\L'L‘I eap ol‘ thin. tried heart eurd ealled inari. The sushi is ser\ ed \iith a h()\\I ol~ steaming iiiiso soup. but alas no Kirin heer: just a reetangular niug ol'green tea.
Miso's samplers are split between a ‘lish set' (£7.95i and a
Japanese ganies shoxss: harel} AUTHENTIC
humiliation. 'l'alls ahoui lost in
the ma) Iiein on 'l‘\'. a partition eneloses a small liin tanls. Japanese-like li\ed hooths ol‘ tinihei' along the \tall aei'oss the inosie ()li/lmi' llashed h). ineluding a ineniorahle iniage includes one squashed hall ol' riee topped \iith a sliee ol' 'xegetarian set' it‘hUSi. \shieh has tainago but not inari. The
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