trying to do is to complement that environment with real passion about the food served.
The pizzaioli (pizza-maker) at La l‘avorita is Michele Vespoli from lsernia. half way between Rome and Naples. His dough is made using the finest-ground ()(I grade Italian flour and is left 48 hours to rise. Dough made less patiently will require more yeast — which comes through in the taste — and end up being a tougher chew. More air is added with some majorette-style whirling and tossing of the thin disc of rolled-out dotigh. Spread on this is sauce using San Marzano tomatoes and decent mozzarella.
At this point the action switches to the oven. lt‘s stoked up every morning with pine logs. leaving the interior deep orange and flickering. a small arched opening waiting for the dough and topping to be posted in. Three minutes later and out comes the pizza. crispy and cliarcoaly on the bottom. puffed up and just starting to blister around the rim. the cheese gooey. the base chewy. the tomato sharp and sweet. the basil fresh and tangy. Perfect pizza'.’ Is the Pope Catholic?
A SLICE OF HISTORY
Pizza has been much abused of late, with ever more dramatic toppings and weirdness, but its origins are far simpler I Pix/a as we know rt today has its origins over 2000 years ago in the (lampanra region which surrounds Naples. Simple flatbreads were cooked on treated stones then dressed wrth oil. salt. herbs and sometimes cheese. Tomatoes only became part of the picture some trrne after Columbus had been to America. Where pizza became a universal fast food was New York. which many argue tops even Naples as the place to eat the world's finest pizza. However. the reason such simple. peasant food often seen as a way of using up leftovers is elevated to gourmet status is cl; ssrcally Italian. What the Italians know is that if you use the best Ingredients and the right combinations. then no matter how simple the food. rt Will be magnificent. Pix/a consists of crispy. chewy bread. wrtlr a thin spread of tomato and cheese. which provides both an acrdalkalrne and a sweet savowy balance. Season wrth salt and herbs. morsturrse with a drizzle of oil. 'lhen eat Wrtlt your hands. Perfect pix/a? It's almost perfect food.
112 THE LIST 1}) I“; Ma, '2‘./):’;
Fruity bound
Get a proper dose of pre-summer health with the freshest home—made smoothies and juices. Ashley Davies reports on the nascent juice bar scene.
s anyone who‘s watched l)r (iillian will know. fruit starts losing
goodness the moment it is opened. And bottled smoothies and fruit
juices are often pasteurised. so not at the peak of their powers. Drinking a concoction that’s been prepared from scratch right in front of you - all for the price of a Starbucks -—isjust so much better for you.
A few enterprising caterers are cottoning onto the craving. ()ne slick operator is l‘t'essh. in (ilasgow’s Merchant (‘ity. lts juices are named according to their properties: best seller the Morning Alter contains apples. orange. carrot and ginger. while the Stressed Out has raspberries. carrot. orange and pineapple. There‘s also the Daily Detox. the (iymn Junkie. and linergy Boost. ()wner Jacquie Dunn is particular about using fruit at the peak of its goodness. ‘We don‘t keep any fruit longer than three or four days because the nutritional value lessens.‘ she says. liach drink comes with a recommended herbal booster potion such as milk thistle or dandelion root to cleanse the liver. or spirulina for energy.
Two lovely juice bars have sprung up in lidinburgh's Soutliside ov er the last few months. Juice Monkeys is owned by Joanna l.yall. ‘\\'e have a lot of people asking for juices they’ve seen on You Are ll'liu/ Iiur liar] she says. 'A lot of people really know what they need. Most people like the idea that you can get more than you need. fruit-wise. in a drink. but most people just like the taste.~ She is considering adding boosters such as echinacea and is taking her lead from the customers. One of their tastiest drinks is the Kiwi Kiss. a mega dose of vitamin (‘ and potassium. containing straw berry. kiwi. apple juice and banana. llangover heaven comes in the shape of a line} Lucy. a detoxifying mix of strawberries and watermelon.
Hidden away on St Leonard‘s Street is a tiny new place called Pomegranate. home of the ‘hot smoothie’ which is much. much nicer than it sounds.
Stewed apples with ginger and muscovado sugar are heavenly. People 5?" often treat owner Nick Smith like it pharmacist. describing their symptoms so he can concoct a remedy. llis hangover preparation contains peanut butter. banana. ginger. chilli/milk and nutmeg. and he prepares ‘energy bombs‘ with seed. wheatgerm and oatmilk to boost the juices. ‘There‘s some kind of instinct in knowing what part of the anatomy the components need to hit — and making it taste good.' he says. With 30 years~ experience as a chef. he knows it‘s a good idea to sell litres of mixed juices that are designed to be drunk with booze. It‘s an option that's impossible to resist for summer .
Fressh, 51-53 Cochrane St, Glasgow, 0141 552 5532; Juice Monkeys, 54 Clerk St, Edinburgh, 0131 667 4450; Pomegranate, 91 St Leonard’s St, Edinburgh, 0131 662 1557.
SideDishes
News to nibble on . . .
I CCA Cafe’ at Glasgow’s Centre for Contemporary Art has revamped its menus. Now, in addition to the a la carte selection, the airy ground floor venue offers a set-price menu at two courses for £14.95 and three for £17.95. The options include dishes such as hot cheese fritters with port sauce, pan-fried halibut on hot buttered spinach and espresso creme brulée with hazelnut biscuit. On the a la carte menu, dishes include a chicken, smoked bacon and guacamole sandwich (£4.95); and roast breast of pigeon with parsnip crisps, puy lentil and chorizo ragout (£6.50). Food is served Tuesday to Thursday from noon until 9pm and on Friday and Saturday from noon until 10pm. Call 0141 332 7959.
I The next monthly ‘la societe (.l‘etain' gourmet meal ~ at The List's Glasgow restaurant of the year. etain -- is Thursday 2 June. The multi~c0urse dinner of seasOnaI produce wrll feeliture specially selected wines, Wlllt wine master Rose Murray Brown leading a tutored tasting. Tickets are $245 per person. For bookings call 0141. 226 5630
I In Stirlingshire, the Inn at Kippen is launching a programme of culinary events with an Indian food evening on Monday 23 May. The three- course dinner will be only £10. Next, on Friday 27 May, the pub/restaurant with rooms begins its annual four-day beer festival with lots of Scottish ales. Then, on Saturday 11 June, the fun moves outside as the chefs will roast two hogs and barbecue other treats. The Inn at Kippen is at Fore Road, Kippen, 01786 871010.
I Branches of the Living Room in Et‘irnbur'gh and Glasgow have launched their new summer menus. The selection includes fresh asparagus wrth crushed tomatoes and saffron butter (Sf-4.8m: classic cheesebuigt-L-r. tomato salsa and fires (838.0% grilled smoked salmon fillet. asparagus. peas and roasted onions Wlilt brillandarse it‘l l.S):')'r and lemon shortbread. strawberries and cream (£41.25).