complete novices. Once we work out the physics of paddling we pootle round the loch quite successfully. managing to avoid being hit by other water babies learning to powerboat and windsurf.
After an hour. we dump the boat for bikes and set off along the National Cycle Network for the eight mile ride to Bridge of Weir. Crowded House once wrote a song about there being four seasons in one day. They probably wrote it about this area of Scotland. We are intermittently baked and soaked. but this doesn‘t detract from the varied scenery. with textbook fields stocked with doe-eyed calves set against the towers of (ilasgow in the distance. A bowl of soup in the Lochnagar Cafe in Bridge of Weir revitalises us for the journey back. although it is with hesitation and careful lowering that we get back into the saddle.
There are two requirements after
such a day: a hot bath and lots of
drinks. Alter we have soaked the pain away. we head to l.ochwinnoch seeking the bright lights of the Brown Bull bar with its real ales and friendly natives. At a not very rock'n’roll hour we meander back to liastlochhead. to sleep that special kind of sleep borne from a day with the wind blowing in your face and your heart pounding. to dream of breakfast and soft cushions to sit on.
FACT FILE
Getting there First ScotRail operates trains from Central Station.
Where to stay East Lochhead C0untry House and Cottages. Largs Road.Lochunnnoch.UtSOSé§42BlO. wwweastlochhead.co.uk.
B8B from $335 per person per night. including full Scottish breakfast.
Green tourism scheme A free brochure. The Green Guide to Scotland. with over 400 attractions and accommodation. is available from VisitScotland. 0845 2255121. wwwgreen-business.co.uk.
What to do ActiVities and helpful staff at the RSPB centre. Locl'iwinnoch. 01505 842 663 www.rsplxorg, scotland. Get on the water at Castle Semple Watersports Centre. 01505 842 882. For moorland walks and the chance to see hen harriers. Visit Clyde Muirshiel Regional Park. 01505 61/1 791 www.clydemuirshiel.co.uk. For National Cycle Network info visa www.sustransorguk.
108 THE LIST 263 May 9 Jll'l 7005)
TRAVEL
y, “L” "It," 2" "r I. a.
It’s easy to adapt to the eco-Iifestyle when you’re staying somewhere as beautiful as High Lodge, says Pip MacLennan.
n a corner of Wigtownshire. a little-known part of Scotland. sits a cottage overlooking a bay and surrounded by the majestic (ialloway Hills. The only noise to
be heard outside is the turning of
the windmill which. alongside the solar panels. provides the power for the house. Inside. the roar of the fire and the bubbling of the Rayburn ensure you immediately feel you have stepped back 50 years.
The lounge contains a comfy sofa bed and fire. making it the perfect place to cuddle up after a long walk along the (ialloway coastline. before retiring to the attic bedroom. This is reached by a somewhat precarious metal ladder that is not for the faint hearted. But sleeping in the small room creates a luxurious feeling of childhood. escaping from everyone to a cosy den in the sky.
lligh Lodge is a beautifully restored |81h century cottage that was originally a gamekeeper‘s home. and is now an eco—friendly holiday cottage. The nearest house is over a mile away. on an organic dairy farm. from where it is possible to obtain organic milk. eggs. vegetables and meat. It‘s only five minutes walk from a safe sandy beach. and one of the most endearing qualities of the cottage is the amount of exploring you can do without having to get into the car.
from forest to hills to beaches. the rolling Wigtownshire countryside provides fabulous walking for all ages. The area is steeped in history and it is not unusual to come across
stone circles and other buildings of
interest while out and about.
However. it is well worth jumping in the car to visit Wigtown. Scotland‘s 'National Book Town‘. only a ten minute drive away. A miniature ‘llay-on-Wye of the north”. it contains over 30 bookshops. and should certainly repay a few hours of browsing. It is a traditional market town. so alongside the bookshops are some nice arts and crafts shops. cafés and country pubs.
The only difficulty is how quickly you find yourself adapting to your environment. Just a couple of days in High Lodge can make you feel a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of life today. This is an idyllic place for those looking for escapism in an eco-friendly environment. Just remember to take a good book.
High Lodge, Home Farm, Garlieston, Wigtownshire, 01988 600 694, www.cottageguide.co.uk/highl odge. For details of literary events in Wigtown, check www.wigtown-booktown.co.uk
Flying puts a pretty heavy tax on the environment, so look out for alternative forms of transport.
AMSTERDAM
An overnight trip from Newcastle to the progressive Dutch city takes 16 hours, but when you consider that you'll sleep through most of the journey, it takes a bit of the sting out. Sail with wwwdfdsseawayscouk. Train to Newcastle from www.gner.co.uk. £69 from Glasgow
BELFAST
Sample the craic first hand in the Northern Irish capital. where you're more likely to find great nightlife and top class eateries than trouble and strife. Citylink runs an all-inclusive service that takes around six hours and you get to feel the wind in your hair to boot. For details. see www.citylink.co.uk.
£29.99 from Glasgow
BRUGES
Cruise direct into the heart of Belgium from Fife without all the hassle of air travel. While it does take 18 hours overnight. this is the most relaxing way to start your holiday to this charming and historic town. Book through wwwsuperfastcom.
£101 from Rosyth
KRISTIANSAND
Enjoy a holiday touring the southern tip of Norway from this pretty harbour town. It certainly ain't cheap to spend time in Scandinavia. but this 14 hour option shaves a fair whack off your total cost. Book with wwwdfdsseawayscouk. Train to Newcastle www.gner.co.uk. £64.50 from Edinburgh
LONDON
Budget flights may be cheap. but they also drop you off miles outside the centre of the capital. If you factor in all the waiting. the train doesn't take any longer. with an average journey time of five hours. Book with www.gner.co.uk. £25 from Edinburgh
All prices quoted are for a return trip in June, including taxes. Prices will vary depending on departure date.