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EAT THERE THIS FORTNIGHT

ou‘re given a one-page menu when you sit down at ;

the Mussel & Steak Bar. but the truth is that it‘s l

hardly necessary. After all. if you walk through the door of this new addition to the busy eating and drinking ; scene in Edinburgh. chances are you‘re either anticipating ' the prospect of a nice big pot of steaming mussels or you‘re smacking your lips at the thought of a big. juicy slab of 2 meat. The rest. surely. is mere detail. 1

UK. there are scallops and oysters and langoustine and fish all available. as well as a token aubergine lasagne for vegetarians. but they're all what you’d expect a mussel bar g to do. Steaks cotne in three different cuts with an option of two sauces and fries. and slaw are standard. Not many folk will be wrong-footed by that.

The owner of the operation is Robert Gibson. who was : manager at the Mussel Inn on Rose Street for six years. He makes little attempt to hide the similarities with his alma mater. even down to

t'itygir.gratis: ‘THE MUSSEl-S i a form of flattery. and

("bg b " .‘l 5 diniill‘cl‘. “1111:?”th HEREI SOURCE” g formula is one which i merits it. His

variation on a theme

is to appeal as a steak i bar at the same time i as appealing as a : mussel bar. and. in ' truth. fans of either

persuasion are unlikely to be put off by the dual billing.

The mussels you‘ll get here. sourced from west coast farms. are large. juicy and filling. You can order them cooked in their own juice or in five different styles such as chilli. Thai or the more ambitious leek. horseradish and cider. If you do head into the other fishy selections the l essential elements of freshness. reliable cooking and filling portions will prevail wherever you cast your fly.

a o 0 Which all confirms that simplicity is the restaurant‘s strongest card. Prices are generally fair (£10.50 for a pot of

mussels. £18 for a 16oz T—bone). and Gibson seems keen to

When a restaurant cans itself the MUSSEL & STEAK BAR, it’s ensure that his staff are well informed about what they‘re

, . . serving. particularly with regard to the shellfish. The two nOt hard to work out What S Comlng OUt Of the k'tChen' And floors of the restaurant offer a few secluded corners as well

there’s a lOt to be said for keeping it simple, writes Donald Reid. as areas suitable for larger groups. and the place is open from lunch right through the afternoon to last orders at l()pm every day.

. There are lots of eating and drinking options in the Ih?__MusseI 8‘ 33139‘w93t (lrassmarket. with some well-established and good quality

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You can also eat fine mussels at: Brel, 39—43 Ashton Lane, Glasgow, 0141 342 Placcs "WWW. Bl” With “5 Pica-‘1‘"! illmmphcft .L‘Wd " “new” r coverage of the basics and respect for decent food. the

Street' Edinburgh’ 7355; Mussel Inn' Mussel & Steak is going to be a good. solid choice. And if 1—65 Rose Street, Edinburgh, 0131 225 5979, you end tip there a second time. you won‘t even need a

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