Made famous by E Annie Proulx’s novel The Shipping News, NEWFOUNDLAND isn’t all isolation and intense weather, as lan Sclater discovers.
ith a land mass one and three quarters
the size of Britain and a population the
size of Edinburgh. Newfoundland offers plenty of opportunity to get away from it all. The landscape will be familiar to Scots. with water and land running into each other like some elemental mosaic around thickly forested hills and gentle peaks. The wild coastline is studded withjpicturesque fishing villages. some still only reachable by boat.
Only a five and a half hour flight from London. Newfoundland (pronounced ‘New-fn-land’) offers British visitors the opportunity to experience Canada's rugged beauty without enduring a long—haul flight. Access is easier from Europe than from most of North America. On the west coast the most popular leisure area is the beautiful Humber Valley. named after the broad river which flows through it. Visitors are introduced to its relaxed pace of life before they evenget off the plane. So recent is the influx of UK visitors that flights are still only weekly. and so small is the immigration and customs hall at the tiny Deer Lake airport that only 25 passengers can disembark at a time to avoid a back+up.
The Humber Valley is a veritable playground for the outdoor enthusiast. Where the river widens to become Deer Lake (misnamed after whatearly settlers assumed were deer and were. in facr, caribou) summer activities range from water sports like kayaking. canoeing and windsurfing to. for landluhbers. hiking. fishing and even caving. In winter an average snowfall
of 16 feet ensures that there is ample white stuff
for skiing, snowboardirw. dog sledding or the chance to explore wilderness terrain as part of a snowmobile or snowshoe expedition.
The Corner Brook Caves (named after the nearby town, which. with a population of 26.000. is the largest on Newfoundland's west coast) is a
maze of subterranean tunnels at depths of up to 50 feet. Some spots require strong nerves to crawl through narrow passages or use finger and toe holds to edge alongside (and in places through) a swift—flowing stream. But thankfully. expert guides are always on hand to advise their charges of the safest routes.
But for those who really want to explore the kind of magnificence that Newfoundland is renowned for. Humber Valley offers a unique trip that allows you to do just this. Where the Humber River enters the Gulf of St Lawrence at the Bay of Islands. there is a chance to go iceberg-hunting and whale-watching —— at the same time. In ‘lceberg Alley'. a stretch of water running from lower Greenland along Canada‘s eastern seaboard. two- and three-story high icebergs can be spotted as they break from northern ice masses and follow the currents south. From mid-June through to early August.
humpback whales. along with 2l other species of
whales. dolphins and porpoises. are regularly seen at close range from tour boats or. for the more intrepid. at sea level from kayaks.
Back on dry land. the centrepiece attraction on Newfoundland‘s west coast is the Gros Morne National Park. part of a continuation of the Appalachian Mountain range which originates in the US State of Georgia. This spectacular UNESCO World Heritage Site is scythed through with glacier—carved. fjord—like inlets (called ‘ponds‘) edged by 2000-foot. near vertical walls. (‘riss-crossed by hiking trails. Gros Morne is the perfect place to let yourself be hypnotised by the awesome scenery and sweeping views out over the Gulf of St Lawrence or simply to engage in some flat-on-your—hack blue sky gazing.
Humber Valley Resort, Newfoundland, 020 8786 3094, www.humbervalley.com
THE HIGH LIFE
Adventure sports aren’t only for long-haul trips - the stunning scenery of Scotland is the perfect backdrop for some thrills.
Imagine floating through the air. catching unseen wind currents and getting a true birds' eye view over the beautiful Isle of Arran — it's the stuff that dreams are made of. A day's paragliding with Flying Fever can give you just this experience. introducing you to the sport on lower level ground and allowing you gradually to progress to bigger slopes. But if you prefer just to relax while someone else does the hard work. a tandem flight with an instructor could be just the ticket. Where can I do it? Flying Fever, Kildonan, Isle of Arran, 01770 820292. www.flyingfever.net.
If you enjoy walking but fancy a bit more of a hands-on approach. then scrambling is the perfect way to build up to some of the bigger peaks. Involving some low level rock climbing, navigation skills and basic rope work, an extended course with Kevin Rutherford could take in some of the most famous trails on the west coast. including Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis, Curved Ridge in Glencoe and Clach GIas-Bla Bheinn on Skye.
Where can I do it? Ecosse Mountains. Craighead Lodge. Blairdrummond. 01786 850757. wwwecossemountainscouk
For those who prefer more adrenaline—fuelled water sports. the River Tay offers year-round white water that is ideal for adventure enthusiasts. Travelling in a short one-person craft. armed with a paddle. helmet and body armour. means that you can get right into some of the smaller pools and rapids. However, beginners may choose to start out in an inflatable or a two- person boat with an instructor.
Where can I do it? The National Kayaking School. Wade House. Aberfeldy. 01887 820498. www.nationalkayakschool.com
I For details of these sports and many more, see www. visitscot/and. com/adventure
21 Jul—.4 Aug 2005 THE LIST 17