My Bi
TRAVEL
one
The streets of Girona are quiet and compact, but there’s great architecture everywhere
Often overshadowed by its proximity to the party capital of Spain, Barcelona’s neighbour is a great weekend destination in its own right, finds Rachael Street.
t was actually on a trip to
Barcelona that I discovered the
delights of Girona. Having spent five days tramping the streets of the Catalan capital by day and partying in the bars by night. I was ready for a break. so on a whim we headed inland to Girona (also spelt Gerona). some 60 miles to the north-east. For the rest of the holiday. it was heaven on earth — a quiet. compact city straddling the River ()nyar. with gorgeous restaurants and bars. So not only did we have peace and
quiet. but we weren‘t deprived of
the culinary delights and great atmosphere we’d come to expect. Many people will recognise the name of the city as an airport served by Ryanair. which is more often than not marketed as Girona (Barcelona). But Girona itself is only a 25 minute bus ride from the
airport. The well-healed capital of
Girona province is bisected by the
66 THE LIST 25 Aug-8 Sep 2005
shallow waters of the ()nyar. with houses painted in warm shades of yellow. pink and orange lining either side. The west bank is home to rows of smart shops and chic restaurants. particularly around the central hub of Placa lndependencia where tables nestle under the cloistercd eaves. Across the fish infested waters. the Barri Vell or old town is the perfect place for a leisurely stroll and it is quite easy to lose track of time amongst the alleyways and shady courtyards.
The most obvious landmark on the cast bank is the enormous cathedral that sits on a hill overlooking the city. Inside you can take shelter from the heat in the widest gothic nave in the world. see delicate tapestries from the 10th century in the attached museum or simply enjoy the peace of the cloisters. A short walk away. parts of the old city wall are
still intact and walking along it gives a great alternative view of the city and surrounding area. At night all this fabulous architecture is beautifully spotlit. making it a stunning setting for al fresco eating and drinking. Restaurants generally serve up Catalan favourites such as salt cod salad and white bean casseroles with chorizo.
AT NIGHT THE FABULOUS ARCHITECTURE IS BEAUTIFULLY SPOT-LIT
The only slight blight on Girona‘s gentrified facade is the number of drunken teenagers who wander the streets. One restaurant was positioned next to the centre of the under-age action and it wasn't until the police turned up that the bottle smashing and arguing stopped. But elsewhere in town. the student population ensures that there are plenty of good drinking spots to hang out in. There‘s nothing better on a warm summer’s evening than leaning out of the window of the bar with a glass of Estrella Damm beer in hand. trying to spot fish swimming by in the gently flowing moonlit river.
www.ajuntament.gilturisme
FACTFILE
How to get there Girona airpon is 25 minutes by bus from the city centre and is served by Ryanair (wwwryanaircom). Return flights from Prestwick cost around $2120 for a week at the end of September. Alternatively. Globespan flies from both Edinburgh and Glasgow to Barcelona for around 53165—2195 during the same period. Details of transport between Girona and Barcelona can be found at wwwrenfees. The train journey takes around an hour and costs roughly 6 Euros each way. Where to stay If you're looking for somewhere with a bit of character. Pensio Bellmirall (www.grn.es/ bellmirall) is situated in the heart of the old town, next to the cathedral. and has seven double rooms that come in at about 58 Euros (about 5240). Where to eat Cafe Ie Bistrot serves up great rustic pizzas. salads and beautiful puddings at reasonable prices. In summer there are tables outside on Pujada de Sant Domenec. although these are very popular and quite often you'll have to wait for a table (inside or outside) at peak times. What to do The cathedral, Arab baths and art museum have plenty to keep you occupied. although if there's time. take a trip out to Figueres to see the surreal Dali Theatre-Museum (www.sa|vador-dali.org). The walls are painted bright raspberry pink and are topped with golden eggs, while inside the central statue court is surrounded by various ante-rooms full of paintings and visual spectacles. It's only 30 minutes by train and entrance to the museum costs 10 Euros (around $27).