work too. Personally. I have to say I love Marimekko. It‘s like a second home.‘ And why do women seem so prominent in the business'.’ ‘There are other companies like that in Scandinavia. We have always had men in the company but of course the majority are women] she laughs. 'You can see it very clearly. I think somehow Armi Ratia found that women can work together and know that they aren’t competing all the time.‘
The fulfilling nature of work is an important aspect of the Marimekko phenomenon refiected both in the company and the product itself. The clothes were intended for working women: practical. washable and forgiving in all sizes. while the interiors were both useful and beautiful. ‘Marimekko woman wanted to work outside the home and also make a beautiful place for her family at home.‘ explains lsola. ‘And that was somehow a new idea.‘
If a strong woman founded the company. another strong woman later saved it. Languishing after the death of its founder in 197‘) and sale to a conglomerate in IQXS. Marimekko was bought over. and its distinctive brand rescued. by Kirsti Paakkanen. a retired advertising executive. in 1991. ‘Kirsti always felt she owed Finland for her own success.‘ says Helsinki employee Rikka Finni. ‘She always says she wanted to rescue not only Marimekko but Finland itself. It was a time when the economic picture was very bad.’
Finland is a country wedged right tip against Russia and its cultural heritage is informed by that proximity. Finland has absorbed some of the tnost interesting things about Russian life: a certain studied melancholy. a fondness for long conversations. tea from a samovar and the kind of prolonged house parties that Anton (‘hekhov wrote about.
In the post-war era. Finland was defined by a palpable relief that it had not been entirely swallowed up by its voracious neighbour. and it looked outwards and upwards. Armi Ratia. who came from the province of Karelia. right on the border. was herself displaced when her home region was invaded by the Russians and
18 THE LIST 8 I)? Set) 7005)
understood the appeal of both the old and new aspects of Finnish life.
Ratia promoted Marimekko as a unique combination of both the modern and traditional: building an architecturally advanced prototype ‘Marihouse‘ on the company estate at Bokars. selling to pioneering modern outlets like the shop Design Research in Cambridge. Massachusetts. but also holding vibrant. traditional Finnish crayfish patties and placing a samovar prominently in many of her early advertising spreads.
History. as Kristina lsola explains. was on Marimekko's side. ‘The atmosphere of post-war Finland was special. People like my mother had lived their youth during the war. After the war they wanted to build a new way of life. The new fabrics and bright colours of their work of that period still reflect that happiness and their confidence shows.‘
These days Finland is as passionately liuropean as it once was passionately Nordic. Like many small liuropean countries it now sells itself on its cultural vibrancy. embodied in new institutions like the contemporary art museum Kiasma. The country‘s restored prosperity is due. in no small amount. to its most famous brand Nokia. the worldwide comrnunications giant.
In comparison Marimekko is small beer. but the company is continuing to show signs of a successful comeback. particularly in the interior and accessories market. with a clever revival of its best designs. And Marimekko Woman? Well. she‘s back. these days more likely to be wearing a bag or hat than an entire outfit. and with less need to be self-conscious about her intellectual credentials. Among today‘s Marimekko converts l‘ve spotted are artist Sophie Macpherson. curator Kirst ()gg and public an commissioner Juliet Dean. The modern Marimekko woman knows a dress won‘t change her life but she also knows good retro design. a practical shoulder bag and the heady whiff of post-war Scandinavian optimism when she sees it.
The Lighthouse, Glasgow, Sat 10 Sep—Fri 1 1 Nov.
The Marimekko way: bold shapes and colourful patterns which made front covers and inspired Ieaders’ wives
WI ON THE It! FROM
Sports