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walnut brownies to soda bread or even the occasional loaves of Jewish challa.
For now. part of Manna's success has to be the novelty value of the enterprise. What happens when that wears off.’ Wilson is bullish: Manna will continue to ‘produce novelty'. he says. Next to come is cheese. something about which he knows a fair amount. He says it will harmonise well with what Manna already produces (as well as complementing the range of beverages in the neighbouring Cornelius Beer & Wine shop).
In many ways. the Manna House succeeds because the owners are also the target audience. They live locally and one incentive for opening the shop was the gap in the market that they themselves perceived. This district wasn‘t only lacking a bakery. but also a place for people to pop into in the evenings. Hence the 8pm closing time. which has proved popular.
Manna. of course. is proverbial honey from the heavens. In this case. it is a present from three people who appear to have landed in the right place at the right time.
The Manna House, 22-24 Easter Road, 0131 652 2349
Fringe benefits
The city centre is no longer necessarily where it’s at, writes Barry Shelby, after visiting Glasgow’s Southside.
rban Grill. the recently launched bar and restaurant in Glasgow‘s Shawlands. confirms a trend: the city centre is no longer the guaranteed location of the most interesting new developments on the dining out scene. ()wned by Alan Tomkins and chef Derek Marshall (who first teamed up with Gamba and later Cafe ()stra). Urban Grill would not be out of place in the city centre. Yet. here it sits on the Southside. New York City nightlife provided part of the model for Urban Grill. according to Tomkins. Indeed. there are elements that might remind visitors
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of the Big Apple. At the rear. a marble-topped bar set out for diners could easily be in the oyster bar below Grand Central Station. for example. At the front of Urban Grill. little divides the bar area from the dining room: something that is quite common in midtown Manhattan.
There are two menus. An all-day version that ranges from a few rather sophisticated dishes such as spaghetti with fresh crab (£l().95) or roast cod on a sumptuous curry of smoked haddock. prawn and peas (£1 1.95) to a mountain of pork ribs (£9.95) or Cajun spiced chicken kebabs (£8.95). The ‘bar bites‘ offers a pared down selection of sides and starters. like baskets of bread or roasted chicken wings. and staples such as the beef burger with Keen‘s cheddar optional (£7.95). While it is not of typical ‘gourmet burger' proportions (ie. too big to get one's mouth around). it is a flavoursome patty of herbed. minced beef with a dollop of slaw on a sesame bun and chip.
There will no doubt be some blanching at £3.30 for a pint of lager. regardless if it is a premium brand such as San Miguel. Still. overall. pricing is not exorbitant.
Urban Grill, 61 Kilmarnock Road, Shawlands, Glasgow, 0141 649 2745. Food served: Mon-Thu 1 1 .30am-1 0.30pm; Fri 1 1 .30am-1 1 pm; Sat noon-1 1pm; Sunday noon-10.30pm.
Side Dishes
News to nibble on. . .
I Similar to a Kurt Weill lyric, October in Princes Square, Glasgow, has become November after a six-week refurb by Stefan King’s G1 Group empire. The bar and brasserie has a new menu, served from noon to 9pm, and cocktail list. DJs will highlight ‘upbeat club classics’ from Thursday to Saturday, when the venue is open until 3am. November is at the rooftop of Princes Square, 48 Buchanan Street, Glasgow, 0141 221 0303. I In a coup for single malt whisky without a trace of peat. Glengoyne received a gold medal recently at the Stockholm Beer and Whisky Festival. Hundreds of Swedes pile weekly onto the cheap flights to Scotland for year- round golf and single malts. Glengoyne's 15-year-old Scottish oak aged whisky pipped Lagavulin and Bowmore in the ‘best wood finish' category and Patrik Standberg [pictured] from Glengoyne's Swedish distributor accepted the award.
I In Leith, both Skippers and the Waterfront are currently offering an autumn sale, with three-course meals available for £16.95 on Sunday to Friday nights. The bargain ends on 2 December.
I Time is a bit tighter if you want to sample some choice European beers at local branches of All Bar One in Edinburgh and Glasgow. Until 27 November. the chain's outlets will have nightly tastings and will feature a list of specially procured beers from Belle Vue- Kriek and Dom Kolsch to Amstel and Moretti.
I New ventures in Edinburgh include Dagda Bar on Buccleuch Street and the Jamhouse on Queen Street in the New Town. The latter is both a bar/entertainment venue and a fine dining restaurant, featuring the cooking of David Haizman, whose CV includes stints at the Tower and Burts Hotel in Melrose. Dagda combines Belgian bottled beer, a couple of real ales, a host of single malt and blended whiskies.