\MH \\
. . t:
The
souq dragons
TRAVEL
It may be renowned as a hagglers’ paradise, but there are more relaxing ways to spend time in Marrakesh, discovers Chris Bradley.
on are like a Berber woman
yery hardf my companion
is told. She's trying her
hand at haggling. with a leather handbag the object of debate. The salesman had suggested 38() Dirham. while her opening gatnbit is a coy l)hX(l. "I‘hat‘s not a democratic price.‘ he complains. feigning injury. After sotne amount of negotiation. a price of I)hl7() (fl l l is finally agreed. ‘.-\nd at that
price. I'll eyen throw in this other
bag for free.. Ile laughineg concludes the sale by presenting the handbag inside a bin liner.
.-\fter melting in the Marrakesh sunshine. we‘ye headed for the wot'ld famous souqs. a shady Ina/e of narrow. winding alleys. which is home to an extrayagan/a of colours. smells and shopping opportunities. \Vrong moy e. It may be hot outside. but in here it's more like a pressure cooker. Was that pair of bright yellow Berber slippers a great deal. or haye I been right royally ripped
off'.’ Who can say. except perhaps for that crafty. smiling salesman. with his linguistic sleights of hand. There‘s no denying the entertainment factor. or eyen the slender possibility of a bargain. as long as you take patter such as 'That's not the price. it‘s just a numberf with a pinch of salt. But there are equally rich rewards away from the tourist traps and the hard
sell. If you fancy a cooler. calmer
and altogether more relaxed experience. read on.
Hankering for a little culture of a more refined nature. we start off by checking ottt some local art. The Moroccan artistic heritage is rooted in traditional crafts. most of which can be pttt to functional use. You can expect to see plentiful ancient and beautiful woodcarying.
mosaic tiling.
jewellery and pottery. and all this
without people trying to sell it to you. The Musee de Marrakesh is actually a beautifully restored 19th
examples of
century mansion. Its centrepiece is
a peaceful. shady courtyard of
fountains and ornate craftsmanship. (ialleries around this display artworks. although some of the finest pieces are part of the building
THE TREATMENT IS LIKE A PARTICULARLY VIOLENT CHILHOOD BATH
itself. There are also exhibitions of
contemporary painting. which bring Morocco‘s present in tottch with its past. The Mtiseum of Islamic Art also homes a worthwhile collection. It‘s situated in the Jardin Majorelle. in the less clattstrophobic streets of the Ville .\'ouyelle and. despite the carpets. curtains and calligraphy on show. perhaps the most enticing aspect is
Marrakesh’s souqs (above) are a warren of narrow streets radiating from the Djemaa-Al-Fna square.
the garden itself. It was originally the work of lirench artist Jacques Majorelle. who first yisited Marrakesh in l‘)l‘). He fell in love with the place and. while making his name as 'the painter of Southern Morocco‘. he also found time to become one of the most important plant collectors of his day. I‘irst opened to the public in l‘)47. the garden is now owned by none other than l’rench designer Yves Saint- I.aurent. He's recently had the gardens restored. while staying faithful to the original aim of creating a peacefttl environment for encouraging artistic inspiration. This goal is achieved through a sensory experience of sweet smells. exotic calls of unseen wildlife and a multitude of plant varieties. bright colours and shapes.
If even this laid back pace finds you working up a sweat. get yourself down to the nearest bathhouse. or hammam. This is where the locals come for a proper
13-27 Apr 2006 THE LIST 101