grime. Ancient l'unicular t'lt'i'mlmz's carry the weary up steep slopes. and wooden trains rumble through close. cobbled streets. ()nc backwater. Rua dc Boayi'sta. has a long row of hardware shops. each selling the same thing: dusty. spartan displays in the window with a tired old shopkeeper sitting inside.

Yet. these glimpses are the key to Lisbon‘s charm. Despite being part

of the liuropean Union. a (‘apital ol'

(‘ulture in I‘M—l. and hosting lixpo

flourishes. ol'ten under a layer of

l‘our years later. locals still reyere a traditional way ol' lil‘e that’s not entirely compatible with the ingratiating thrust of capitalism. economic growth and transl'orrnation. It‘s also possible that. as nearly 50 years of dictatorship only came to an end in NH. Portugal hasn't yet regained its selllassurance.

This lack ol‘ conlidence l‘ts neatly with the Portuguese idea of sum/mlt'. a longing for that which has been lost. combined with an

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98 THE LIST 1 1—25 May 2006

Life in Lisbon (from top left): a view across the city to the Tagus estuary; ‘A Brasileira’ pasteleria; one of Lisbon's atmospheric old trams; a tranquil park with a vista

upbeat idea that it might return in the future. leayened by the latalist notion that it probably won‘t. More complex than nostalgia. the origin of the emotion and why it grasps the country‘s psyche is rooted in the voyages ol‘ discovery to the New World: "l'hey have gone. what will they find? Will they come back'.’ ()h. to be with them and love them again . . .'

It‘s a difficult idea to handle. but probably explains why the country‘s people have a reputation for moodiness that's not wholly unearned. There's a lot of passion in Portugal. and experiencing me in its noble old capital city creates a longing to return. even when it‘s seemingly so far behind.

FACTFILE

Getting there British Airways :0870 8:30 9850. tintislwairwa,s cc'ri, t', either Edinburgh rx Glasgow ma London. from €155 return KLM lklmcom) Operate a longer route Vla Amsterdam.

Where to stay For super Views on a budget. check into the Pensao ResidenCiaI Ninho das Aguias (Costa do Castelo 74. 218 867 008). a tower up

ll preeminence in world affairs was iudged on the quality '.)l your pastries. the seat ol the world's superpower would be Lisbon lhe mste/aria is ubiquitous. a cate dedicated to the confectioner 's art Step into one in the late afternoon and ask for ‘uma bica e um pastel de nata'. you Wlll receive an espresso. and a custard tart hour the gods. In a lilo case. and Wllll a dappled top, the contents are rich vanilla-flavoured eggy peitection Here's where to sample the best

I A Braslleira Rua Garrett i.>r; Chiado. A tOO-year-old cottee l)th institution With an opulent interior. frequented by those on the tourist trail and locals alike. there are tables outSide. too.

I Antigua Confeitaria de Belem Rua de Belem 90. Belem Some say the paste/s de nata here are the cream ol the crop: dust them With cinnamon and ICIllg sugar in the local style.

I Pastelaria Suica Praca do Dom Pedro IV. Centrally located pastry shop and cafe. always busy. and selling a b€Wll(lOflng selection of confectionery.

I Pao de Canela Praca des Flores. Relaxed neighbourhood pastelaria next to a pretty. secluded square. Serves light bites too. Good for children too.

against l istiori's castle r'.ul|l‘, .'."ll(,‘lt: ,oii (,(l' (get .‘i (l‘)lll)lt.‘ " )lll (lllllllltl '2 Pt, ()tf il ‘: ll’2l‘7l

:i‘. a favourite ol .irli

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palace lit; .vitli 'lt)_ll,lt:‘i ‘,t;irtirir; (til l-‘u‘. lVll(l rartgr: rl(,(,t).'l:lll’,(lélil’il 2r w lift " ‘7 i5 12:? l,’ l.’l’, i", ,' lfll’i “a” : .i' 2‘ ‘e ,' ' i: (,().".l‘.:lll[,()lrli'," style tittiri rte l/lilritire rte

Sarita Antonio 0 ’/ P) 82.1 irir,‘ fi()'€ll'lf)‘)l' ,orri‘. ’,(/lil

See the sights [Jon't l' is; lllt: Castelo de Sao Jorge arid the lfl‘:’ll‘:/€ll iiia/e like Allzirria tieighlmrirlioerl ’,.'l it'. SOLlillCtTl side Art lo/err. 'l.ll',l trek Dill it;lll€tC§tlUtlSlt1(JtJIl/;lil'.étl. l (lilti’lnlibti lA‘thllltlEi de Bert la zit/s, 2‘. /' 82’: 000. "lt.‘,‘:.. ’; .'l/:' “11' l,‘ ’2 " " ", "-"’ (:l‘i’} " ’,"£:','.‘:". ' T' ‘: 07:33, ":(t’f‘ith: Suburb of Belem are essential l'llmll/ JISIi the Expo 96 site Parqtie des Nacoes lAVElllda de Dorn Jaoa ll. 218 919 898. yum parquedasnacoes on where there's an oceahariurn. a cable car. and the Vasco da Gama Outlook tower,