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Gut feelings
Some cities inspire because of their setting; others for their history and culture. Few can boast these strengths plus a passion for food. Robin Lee waxes gastronomical about Lisbon.
LISBON FACTFILE The city is over 2000 years old but it has only been capital of Portugal since it
was captured from the Moors in 1147. The population of the city is 560,000: roughly
the same as that of Glasgow. Following an earthquake which much of the city in 1755, the centre was rebuilt using a grid system.
ho atn l‘.’ I am the capital city ol my country. a small nation that liercely delends its culture against that of a larger. neighbouring nation. I atn a hilly settlement that sits on the right bank ol an estuary. spanned by two l'amous bridges. I haye a strong tnarititne heritage. and one of my central districts. a well-heeled area. was built on a grid systetn in the IXIh century. People come to see my castle.
a Medieyal relic that has loitilied extensiyely since that time. Lose ten points for bu/ling in and hlurting out ‘lidinburghf'. because the answer is Lisbon. At a more southerly latitttde. where snow is as likely as Scotch mist. the similarities quickly disappear r~ except perhaps in the natiy'e tongue. Portuguese being only slightly more impenetrable than a thick slice ol' limbra or (ilesgae to the outsider. l yisited for a second time in late February. when the cold days begin to fall away for spring. Not being wholly delwndent on the tourist trade to sury'iye. the city bu/./es all year round. With clubs that regularly open Ill ham. Lisbon is renowned for its hedonism. The Mediterranean custom ol' leisurely lunches. al'ternoon A coffee and people-watching long into the night has transferred to this Atlantic city. too. In the small hours. the tight. bohemian streets ol'
the Bairro Alto district spill oyer with chatting drinkers. the tiny spaces that call themselyes bars unable to hold the swell ol‘sociality.
Young Lisboetas work hard in the lirst hall' ol' the week so l'eel entitled to stay otit late l'rom Thursday night onwards. ()n the Thursday night of my Visit. l was standing with my Portuguese host and her l‘riends in a nightclub at 4am. the majority of people around us still talking rather than throwing shapes to whatey'er Tiga was playing downstairs. The Lox nightclub is in a conyened warehouse on the waterl‘ront. and a couple of years ago. was the coolest hangout in the city. with a rooftop terrace and constantly changing interior style. Mercil'ully'. it's a relaxed place. allowing older Dom Juans to mix with club kids in a typically Portuguese way.
liarlier in the week l sat in a small restaurant. llcrculuno, and sampled at lunch of (“zit/r) a l’ortugmu. a simple stew ol chori/o. black sattsage. hunks ol' pork on the bone. potato. white beans and winter Vegetables. coupled with a glass ol' red wine. The staff dealt with a procession of well-dressed business types. separating tables and shul'l'ling them back together again. squeezing in l'olks whereyer possible. with some even feasting at the glass bar-top. I got the impression this would have been the scene last year. the year before. a hundred years ago.
Once capital of a great empire. with outposts in South America. Africa. India and the Far liast. Lisbon now wears the mantle of faded grandeur. Demure townhouses sport patterned tiles. wrought iron balconettes and stone-cut
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