Life Style

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\t‘l‘\ ICC

Chefs aged 7718-28 can submitentnesr ' I for the 2007 Scottish Food Scholarship

before 6 December 2006. For further information, contact Crimson Edge PR on013131170500rgoto www.scottishfoodscholarship.co.uk. Details of the 2007 James Sankey Award can be found at www.oloroso.co.uk.

MOTHER INDIA’S CELLAR

Barry Shelby discovers buried treasure in the vaults of one of Glasgow's best-loved Indian restaurants

What do you do with a basement glory hole, into which every disused piece of junk gets exiled and where the possessions of friends in transit become temporarily lodged? Well, if it happens to be underneath one of the best Indian restaurants

Paneer cubes are marinated and roasted in one starter, served with a gently seasoned sweet beetroot and ginger condiment. Fish dishes punctuate the concise selection, with Punjabi- spiced haddock, for example, or monk fish kebabs: plump chunks of fish with tomatoes and mild peppers. The rest of the main courses are almost evenly divided between chicken, lamb

News to nibble on . . .

I West Brewing Company (pictured) on Glasgow Green inaugurates Oktoberfest this month. In the sprawling bier halle, the bar’s usual supply of lager, freshly made on the premises, will be augmented with a specially brewed dark Oktoberfest beer. Live music will be featured all month, culminating with a grand finale on October 29: an ‘Oompah-Fuelled Frenzy of Fun’. Get your Iederhosen on.

I Side dishes extends apologies to Mzouda in Glasgow. In a feature on the Moroccan/Spanish restaurant this summer. we inadvertently transposed a couple of digits in their phone number. Correctly. it is 221 3910. There's paella all over our lace.

I In Edinburgh, Embark Bar and Dining Room is the latest venture to open at the Edinburgh Quay development where the Union Canal terminates in Fountainbridge. There is a ground level bar, with a restaurant upstairs on the mezzanine as well as a roof terrace. Call 0131 222 4898.

I The Stockbridge restaurant in Edinburgh has recently Opened for lunch. A fixed price menu offers two courses for $212.50 and

in town, there is only one answer. Convert it into another dining space. That is essentially what has happened below Mother India in Glasgow, where owner Monir Mohammed recently opened the Cellar. Designed by Dunn Interiors, the feeling is cool and contemporary, with exposed masonry walls, leather banquettes and large photo prints on canvas depicting nature. The 13 week-long build installed a dedicated

kitchen and created room for about 60-odd diners in two distinct sitting areas, one of which includes a nook for quasi-private dining

for eight at a round table.

The a la carte menu, while different, is not a radical departure from the Mother India formula: no vindaloo, no tikka massala, and no ordering by numbers here. Instead a

sophisticated and limited

list of a half dozen starters and 17 main

courses, from potato and spinach dosas to smoked keema with kerela (lamb mince smoked with whole cloves and cooked with bitter melon).

and meat-free dishes, such as an intriguing- sounding dry vegetable curry.

In a Mother India signature style, anything finished in an oven is served to diners on a shimmering piece of foil. Like it, this new venture appears to reflect nicely on Mother India’s

reputation.

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98 THE LIST '1 “10;: .‘ fi-

three for I315. wrth dishes such as spiced pigeon breast with red onion marmalade or seared sea bass with ratatouille and basn pesto. For bookings. call 0131 226 6766.

I Finally, in arguably the most dramatic development of the year, chef Tony Borthwick is relocating his Michelin-star restaurant, the Plumed Horse, from the Dumfries and Galloway to Leith. He served his last meal in Crossmichael in September and plans to be open on 50-54 Henderson Street later this month.