LEITH CHEFS
GALLOPING GOURMET
ike writers roused from their slurnbers by
ideas for the next chapter in a novel. Tony
Borthwick has been kept awake until 5am by thoughts of a dish he wants to prepare. The Michelin star-holding chef. however. can‘t literally cook it because he is still in the process of moving his Plumed Horse restatrrant from the bucolic setting of Galloway to the rather more gritty port of Leith.
When the restaurant does open (the end of November is the target). it may mark a watershed for the Scots capital. Combined with the esteemed Restaurant Martin Wishart (one Michelin star) and newcomer Tom Kitchin‘s Kitchin restaurant. Borthwick’s arrival creates a rather cast-iron triangle of quality cooking. An area with two Michelin award-winning chefs within virtual oil-spattering distance has few precedents in the UK. Foodies can point to Ludlow. for example. in Shropshire or the London district of Chelsea. liven if the Michelin man doesn‘t bestow a star initially next January to Borthwick (he suspects not. as the move was poorly timed given the guides deadlines). Leith will be a bona lide gourmand's destination.
That’s before one considers the supporting acts. too: such as the Lists Restaurant of the year. the sumptuous Vintner‘s Rooms. and the host of solid fish and seafood restaurants from the Waterfront to Fishers.
(‘uriotrsly enough. Borthwick says it was Wishart who suggested he come north. ‘In the early part of the year. Martin put the idea in my heath the Yorkshireman recalls. ‘l-le said there was plenty of business for everyone.‘ Instead of worrying about the scrum for business and losing trade. Borthwick says Wishart emphasised how they could ‘enhance‘ the area.
'l was particularly looking at Leith. as opposed to lidinburgh.‘ he says. ‘People with smaller minds will say that all we are going to do is compete. But Martin Wishart and l have two totally different styles of restaurant..
lndeed. Borthwick’s reputation rests on innovation and international influences on mostly local and seasonal ingredients. while Wishart brings classically trained Gallic touches to modern French meals. Sample dishes? Roast loin of pork with braised belly stuffed with prunes (Borthwick). in contrast to roast halibut. glazed pig‘s trotter and braised endive (Wishart).
Chef Tony Borthwick has uprooted his Michelin-starred restaurant The Plumed Horse from Galloway and is re-opening it in Leith. In the process he’s confirmed Leith’s status as one of the hottest culinary spots in Britain. Barry Shelby meets the man who’s cooking up a storm.
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