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The Kitchin
78 Commercial Quay, Leith 0131 555 1755, www.thekitchin. com, Food served: Tue-Thu 12.30—2pm, 7-10pm; Fri/Sat 12.30—2pm, 6.45-10.30pm.
£32 (average price of a two- course meal)
Halfway along the uniform row of restaurants and bars in Leith's modem Commercial Quay is Edinburgh's newest Michelin star restaurant: the Kitchin won the accolade just six months after opening in the summer of 2006. The understated but comfortably contemporary decor is illuminated by an opening into the kitchen. which gives you tantalising glimpses of chefs at work. The restaurant takes its name from chef/owner Tom Kitchin. who is
still not 30. The menu reflects his passion for locally-sourced Scottish produce with French interpretations. Ravioli of langoustine is complemented by an intense earthy fish broth of cognac. vermouth, cream and tarragon. Seasonality is a strong vein to the menus. as is a ‘whole—animal‘ approach: look out for rolled pig‘s head served with crispy ear salad. or fillet ofAngus beef superbly enhanced by a rich, glossy. dark brown bone marrow sauce. Fixed- priced lunches remain a steal.
High point: Food is king and the service. wine and décor all revolve round the menu
Low point: Spicy haggis with foie gras is a cultural marriage too far
Glasgow
0K0 Express
78 Queen Street, City Centre 0141 248 9666, www.0koexpress. com, Food served: Mon noon— 10pm; Tue-Sat noon—5am; Sun noon-9pm.
£10 (average price of a two-course meal)
()KO Express aims to be a quick refuelling stop — hence the addition of ‘Iixpress' as part of the relocation from the erstwhile Merchant City location. This is a smaller. cosier space than before.
' A.’oui-” night out Glasgow ; 4 la Bonne Au berge‘.
161 west nile street.’ _theotrelond,. glos'gowgl 2rul
. 0141 352 8310
lobonneo_uberge.co.pk '
94 THE LIST 1226 Apr 2007
[A BONNE AUBERGE
est 1975
with a warm. red decor. The menu offers no starter/main course division — diners simply pick a selection of dishes that are brought to the table as soon as they are ready. A light—fingered sushi chef tends to his dainty art at an open bar. but there are plenty of other
options such as teriyaki and fried
rice. which comes with a choice of meat, fish or vegetables.
High point: High quality at relatively low prices
Low point: Menu :1 little confusing to the uninitiated
The Left Bank
33-35 Gibson Street, West End 0141 339 5969, www.theleftbank. co.uk, Food served: Mon-Fri 9am-10pm; Sat/Sun 10am—10pm [bar open: Mon-Fri 9am- midnight; Sat/Sun 10am- midnight].
£1 2.50 (average price of a two- course meal)
The left Bank offers a casually stylish hangout out that’s as much a bar as a bistro. It’s been hugely busy since its arrival in 2006 on the Gibson Street scene, and the atmosphere can at times be frenetic (so this is not always the best place to wind down over a meal on weekend nights). The lengthy menu underpins the restaurant’s flexible philosophy. serving up innovative food that is cooked freshly and displays global influences. Among more substantial main courses are sticky pork belly in a glossy sauce spiked with chilli and star anise or traditional beer-battered fish or freshly-prepared burgers, served with chunky borne-made chips. High point: Fresh tasty food
Low point: ‘Full-on’ weekend evenings
Blas 1397 Argyle Street, West End 0141 357 4328, www.blas resturant.com, Food served: Mon—Sun 10am—10pm [bar open: Mon-Sun 10am-11 pm].
£15 (average price of a two- course meal)
Blas is the Gaelic word for ‘taste‘, and those who dine here can expect to experience the varied flavours of Scotland. Among deceptively simple cafe-bar de’cor are a number of design touches — such as wallpaper from Timorous Beasties. A passionate sourcing policy has tracked down smoked salmon from an Ullapool smokehouse and venison sausages from the reputed best butcher in Glasgow. Vegetarians are equally well catered for, with options ranging from mushroom stew (a thick Scots broth packed with barley, herbs and mushrooms) to fabulous veggie haggis with a strong clove tang. High point: The best ingredients Scotland has to offer
Low point: Food this good is worthy of a tablecloth
Bistro at One Devonshire Gardens
1 Devonshire Gardens, West End 0141 339 2001, www.0nedevon shiregardens.com, Food served: Mon—Thu noon- 2.30pm, 7-10pm; Fri noon— 2.30pm, 6—10.30pm; Sat 6- 10.30pm; Sun 12.30—3pm, 7- 10pm [bar open: Mon-Sun 10am— midnight].
£27 (average price of a two-course meal)
The Bistro at One Devonshire Gardens dares to ditch Glasgow’s famed gallus vigour for Gallic elegance — symbolically, pitch- black blinds block out busy Great Western Road. Yet the potentially starchy hauteur of French fine dining is subverted by concessions to easygoing Glasgow: for example. Billie Holiday or chillout electronica plays in the background. The menu heralds ‘simple grill classics’ alongside more ostentatious fare: a dainty velouté of crépes with truffle oil is a typical appetiser. A main course of pork belly with sweetbread in pigs tail unashamedly plays up meaty vigour, while roasted chicken tops potato fondants covered in a subtle white wine foam. Among desserts. a dense, dark chocolate tower — hiding an inner cylinder of salted caramel — topples onto malted barley ice cream.
High point: Chef Paul Tamburrini is relishing new surroundings
Low point: Difficult to contact by phone
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