TRAVEL
The outer limits
Doune is perfect for adventurers and those looking to kick back and relax. Visitors stay in stone lodges, pictured
bottom, while food is served in the Doune Dining Room, right
NARY poo/v.2 KNOY n r: ‘2‘ a
We packed Allan Radcliffe and Kirstin lnnes off on two very different Scottish weekend breaks - the former thrown to the wind in the rugged peninsula of Knoydart, the latter placed in the lap of luxury in a country house - with strict orders to recuperate, relax and get away from it all
FAR FROM THE MADDENING CROWOS
t‘s said that we Scots betray a wanderlust that extends well beyond these islands. but are less enthusiastic about exploring our immediate surrounds. Planning a recent weekend away. I decide to
spurn exotic climes in fauna of
somewhere closer to home. Knoydart. the place my pin lands on in the map of Scotland. could hardly be described as a hop. skip and jump from the central belt. The rugged peninsula. which juts out from Lochaber on the northwest coast. lies sandwiched between two long. narrow lochs. Nevis and Hourn. whose names translate as ‘heaven’ and ‘hell‘. lnaccessible by road. the estate has been owned and run by the Knoydart Foundation since the IOU—strong community staged a land buyout in l997. For budget flight-weary travellers this is surely the last bastion of the exotic. I am destined for l)oune on the western shore of the peninsula. within sight of Skye. Rum and iiigg and reached by boat from Mallaig.
90 THE LIST (3 “)0 Sep 900'
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As (iripper ll approaches the rocky beach. overshadowed by a steep green hillside. this lonely outpost looks perfect for my twin purposes: kicking back and relaxing.
But the summer season at l)oune is also a rich source of options for those seeking an adventurous break. lixperienced hillwalkers find
themselves within easy reach of
Munros such as craggy Ladhar Bheinn as well as numerous winding tracks and pony paths. Knoydart is also the ideal base for sailing enthusiasts and divers. who can make use of the fast charter boat Mary l)oune to explore nearby colourful reefs and eclectic sea life.
As our host Martin Davies reels off
‘FOR BUDGET FLIGHT-WEARY TRAVELLERS THIS IS SURELY THE LAST BAST ION OF THE EXOTIC'
these exhausting—sounding possibilities. I'm relieved to hear that many visitors opt to spend their break ensconced in the ‘remotest pub in mainland Britain‘. in Knoydart's main village of lnverie. Accommtxlation takes the form of stone lodges. comfortany furnished and decked out in pine. As there is no television reception. a selection of books and board games is supplied. After unpacking. I go for
‘\
a short stroll and take in the view across the glassy Sound of Sleat lo Skye with the (‘uillins rising dramatically in the background. W’ho needs television'.’
As the sun descends I make my way to the l)oune Dining Room. which won the liatScotland Silver Award for 2007. 'lhc food is home- made by resident |.i/. 'libbetts from locally sourced ingredients. and includes crab from the bay. a hearty venison stew and pavlova topped with berries from the garden.
Dinner over. our hosts drift around the tables gauging the guests‘ moods and settling itineraries for the following day. One of my dinner companions. a frequent visitor. is planning to walk from Barisdale Bay at the head of Loch Hourn to lnverie. so I agree to accompany him there and back. a three—hour round trip on (iripper II.
Setting off early the following morning. the sky is bright blue and cloudless. but as we enter the loch a silver wall of rain is visible in the near distance. ()ur progress north is punctuated by several sheeting showers. each burst leaving a vivid rainbow in its wake. Human life is restricted to a few isolated cottages perched on ban‘en hilltops. but the black sea is occasionally broken by porpoises and seals while gannets. puffins. even a kestrel are visible in the sky. l)olphins. whales and basking sharks also frequent the waters around Knoydart.
As the boat takes me back to Mallaig. having dipped my toe in the waters around this impressive. diverse destination. I’m already planning my return and perhaps a more adventurous schedule.
www.doune-knoydart.co.uk
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