network of bridges and ferries ~ many of which are free mean that cycling around the Archipelago is simply a joy. We biked around the island of Nauva (pronounced Now- wa) and stayed at (iyttia Vasterfai'd. a cosy 8&8 operated by Tom (‘arling who offers a level of comfort and accommodation at mind-bogglineg modest prices. So modest. in fact. that splurging on the Archipelago menu of herring tartar. a creamy crayfish cappuccino soup. and locally-reared lamb with potato dauphinoise in the famous neighbourhood restaurant Ifliscale seems perfectly reasonable. Mandatory in fact.

Leaving the Archipelago (and my new fantasy life) felt exceedingly difficult. until I remembered that we were headed for llelsinki. liven arriving into the central train station. we were made aware that this was a city bursting with life. free from the cut-throat antics of the modern world: outside the station stood a huge collection of bicycles - scores of them unattended and unlocked. We had arrived into a city

l-. 1'” 0' " O J" ..§u’ "

Clockwise from left: fishing in the Archipelago, the Huvila Tent, Turku graffiti, the view from Kirjais, outside a traditional smoke sauna at the Archipelago, a busker at Kauppatori Market, Helsinki

so ci\ ilised that theft and a preoccupation with consumer goods w as supcl‘scdcd b} a lo\ c of public art. architecture. culture. theatre. dance. and design.

llclsiiiki is technically the si/e of lidinburgh. though. brimming with people and activities all year round. there's a much more tangible bustle. ’l'lierc's a (much smaller) arts festival in August. and while the international crowds and ongoing hype aren‘t nearly as big as they are at home. the pcrlornianccs are just as diverse. affecting and exciting. In the bespoke thiltl Tent. ill one night. we caught linsemble AI- Kiiidi ~ an Iranian ensemble with whirling dervishes spinning into trance and legendary chanteuse Juliet (ireco recreating l’aris through the songs of Jacques Brel. 'l‘lie l‘cstival director. Risto Nieminen. is forging powerful and exciting links with the emerging Baltic states. creating a distinct. compelling culture for performance and art that has helped llelsinki become a noted. year-round stop on the contemporary performance calendar. The energy. much like l’inlaiid itself. is palpable without

ever being sell. conscious or

pretentious.

FACTFILE

Getting there

Finnair. wwwfinnairconi. 0870 241 441 l. operates flights direct from Edinburgh to Helsuiki and back on Wednesdays and Sundays.

Where to stay

In the Archipelago

Naantali Spa Hotel. Matkailiiaiitie 2). r1358l())2«t.1 :35 100 wwwnaantalispafi

A five star hotel in the popular seaside village of Naantali, which offers luxurious spa facilities including Turkish bastiis. several swimming pools. spa baths and public and private saunas. Pelago Ltd. Kopninsgatan 18. 21000 Pargas. (5:38 iOl 10 548 5700 vmwpelagoinfo. Standard and bespoke cycle and fishing tours of the Archipelago are available from this specialist travel agency. Four-day. three-night cycling packages start from 168 euros per person

In Helsinki

Hotel Sokos Presidentti. Etelainen Rautatiekatu «4. preSidenttiheISinkifwsokoshotelsfi

Tel. .7358 i020 1234 608

Central stylish and affordable. this hotel is minutes from the train and bus stations. outdoor markets. 0v er 100 art museums and retail therapy in Helsmki‘s main shopping district.

I For more information, contact the Finnish Toot/st Board on

www ViSitfin/and. com

Bold/v going where no one also

really wants to

I Ta ta Lonely Planet Thorn Tree! Farewell Facebook! Baggage has a new favourite website that we’re getting all evangelical about. It’s called Nothing To See Here (www.nothingtoseehere.net) and it’s just lovely. Run by mysterious Glaswegian blogger Anne Ward, Nothing To See Here is a collection of small travel nuggets of excellent writing celebrating off-beat, under-appreciated places around the UK. We’re actually a little bit behind - it’s been going since May 2006, and now employs a team of 19 writers, reporting on everything from model villages to idiosyncratic shops. The site is beginning to expand outwith the UK, too, covering a spectacular array of obscure international spots. The only place you might have heard of is Katz’s Deli in New York, site of Meg Ryan’s well-faked orgasm in When Harry Met Sally. The site is both a source of inspiration for unusual holidaymaking and the sort of forum that makes you look at ordinary things afresh. We think it’s about time the formica-topped table charms of Millport on the Isle of Cumbrae got the recognition they deserve.

I Although The List caters to both Edinburgh and Glasgow and loves them both equally, we do recognise that they are two cities divided by misunderstanding and prejudice (most of which concerns what you put on your fish and chips). Have you always wanted to make that trip along the M8. but are just not sure if you'd like it? Wonder no longer. because Visit Scotland have come up with a choose-your-own-adventure style video guide to both cities. After answering a series of not- too-taxing questions about your taste in city breaking, you'll be presented with your own personal movie. packed with recommendations for shopping, eating and sight-seeing. allowing you to envisage yourself in the Other Place. Check it out at www.guardian-visitscotland. co.uk/visit_scotland. Go on. Together, we can spread a little love throughout the Central Belt. (Kirstin lnnes)

27,7 THE LIST 95

1;: Of}- it”).