r» ‘ s.
We'll lways have Harris
Luskentyre beach is one of the main attractions on Harris. even in winter. Inset. Willie Fulton's gallery
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Alexander Kennedy finds peace and solitude with a winter visit to the windswept Outer Hebrides
o soriieoiie who. as a child. often prayed for the
kind of harsh weather that kept the rest of the
world at bay and provided an excellent excuse for ‘coorieirig in‘ and contemplation. the idea of staying on an island on the Outer Hebrides during the winter is blissful. 2008 ushered in the launch of Winter Harris. an initiative by a loose group of local businesses backed by VisitScotland. to make the idea of an off- peak holiday on the island appealing. not only to city- based central-belters in Scotland. but the rest of the globe. An almost island-wide refurbishment of hotels. B&Bs. pubs and restaurants which is due to be completed later this year. has transformed what has
been called ‘the poorer but more beautiful cousin of
Lewis' into an attractive destination for those seeking solitude and luxury. 0111‘ base was Kirklea (‘ottages in Tarbeit. the largest
village on Harris. with the ferry port and the harbour
right on our“ doorstep. The four-star self-catering cottages feature spotlessly clean interiors. which are soon to be completely redecorated to cater for the cosmopolitan new breed of visitors.
While there is an excellent bus service that ferries locals and visitors around most of Harris and Lewis at half hour intervals during the day. the best way to get about and see the sights is by hiring a car. The ‘coffiii pass’ between Lewis and Harris stretches out like an almost impenetrable and unwelcoriiing iiioonscape between north and south. a primordial landscape that has been kneaded by volcanic activity. But it‘s the beaches lying to the very south of Han‘is. Scarista and Luskentyre. that most people come to the island to see. From high above the empty wind-battered beaches. the turquoise and mum swells hurl themselves at the pure white sand; even in the greyest winter light you have to squint at the evanescent effect of light on water.
It‘s not only the landscape that draws tourists here and
keeps them returning. The people create pockets of
generosity and warmth among the many bays and small
14 'I’HE LIST 28 Feb—’3 Mar 2308
glens. The fare up in Digby (‘hicks in Stornoway is easily worth the 75-mile round trip from Tarbeit. where the freshest local fish and meat can be found. And it's not hard to find a fresh scone on the island: I found the best I‘d ever tasted on offer at the Skoon Art (are. We stumbled. almost accidentally. across culturally significant ruins and monuments and breath-taking sights. most notably the standing stones at (‘alanais and St (‘lements Church at Rodel. Later. local artist Willie l‘ultori‘s gallery at Ardbuidhe demonstrated how the light and dark rocks of the landscape continue to inspire a deep artistic reaction in the island's residents. The people still feel that they have a responsibility and an overwhelming urge to respond to this sacred landscape. lf hell is other people. winter on an almost deserted Harris is heavenly.
See www.winterharris.com for full information on the Winter Harris project and accommodation info. Self-catering cottages typically start at around USO-£200 per week. Loganair and Highland Air fly directly, but infrequently, from Edinburgh and Glasgow. Caledonian MacBrayne run regular ferries from Ullapool and Skye. (www.calmac.co.uk)
flow the budget
With many safaris costing well over £2000 per person. as understandable that thev are often viewed as a once in a lifetime trip rather than any old holiday. But you don't necessarily have to re- mortgage inir home to get up close to the “big five'. If you're Willing to travel off-season, loin a group rather than go it alone and stay in more basic accommodation than a luxury lodge, prices can drop substantially. The Adventure Company's Serengeti Explorer trips, for example, are small group holidays that take in Tanzania's Serengeti and Ngorogoro Crater national parks and Oldiivai Gorge during action-packed ten-day itineraries. Prices start from {it 199 per person, which includes flights from London, transpon. tented accommodation. game Viewrng and most meals (0845 450 531 2: www.adventurecompany.co.iik).
On I shoestring
The sun rismg over grassy plains, the sound of galloping wildebeest . . . this must be. er. Kent. Livingstone Safari Lodge at Port Lympne Wild Animal Park purports to be the only place in Europe that runs African-style overnight safaris and prices start at a reasonable £150 per person per night. Guests receive a welcome drink before heading out for an afternoon game drive (animals include zebra. wildebeest. rhino, giraffe, ostrich and more). Then it's over to your luxury tent to enjoy a sundowner on the veranda before tucking into an African dinner and talks by park rangers. At dawn, there's time for another game drive before breakfast — and a significantly shoner journey home than you would have from the Serengeti. It doesn't open until June but book now to beat the stampede (01303 234190; www.totallywild.net).